Why should I use unions over couplers? Difference please.

vraskal

New member
Just need the mainly know what a union does over a coupler for pvc. I see a lot of people use it, but why? I understand the concept for a gate valve but can't seem to see the advantage of a union.
 
A union is very useful if you want to take PVC connections, etc., back apart after you put it together. I used about 4 or 5 of them tonight when I hooked up my new water storage container. Now if I need to I can take my pump off line without having to cut PVC to do it or I can take ball valves back out if they go bad, etc.

I can post pics if you need to see some.
 
A union is useful if you ever need to dis-assemble your plumbing [for cleaning, maintenance, fix a drip].

Most couplers are either slip [glued/permanent] or threaded ... and while one could use lots of threaded couplings - they can be problematic [have to spin around rest of plumbing to twist on].

A union is handy as it is easy to seal [and take apart] and for parts like my external return pump, my skimmer pump [also external] - I can just unscrew the unions, and the pump + 6" of pipe come off for easy removal/cleaning/replacement.

Compared to a coupler - it's easier for dis-assembly, making regular maintenance + pump cleaning a breeze.

Did I explain that ok?

[darn, Freed beat me too it :)]
 
Thanks for the quick response.
Ahhh... so that is what its for. Just in case I need to fix or clean something like a pump.

Sorry for another stupid question, but if I place unions directly on the inlet and outlet of any pump, should I also place a gate valve adjacent to it? This way, if I ever disassemble anything, I can turn the water off w/o having the lots of water in the pvc pipes leaking everywhere.

I've been lurking on here since December and have been reading religiously about 3-5 hours each day.

I got a pretty good deal on a 105 gallon oceanic rr tank /w stand, canopy, and lights. I also have some questions about lighting but I dont want to make another topic so is it okay if I just ask it now?

The lights in the canopy are coralife. One is 10,000 k flourescent and the other one is 10,000 k actinic(sp). There are 2 dual bulb fixtures in there. Is this mh lighting or t5 lighting? What is the big difference between the 2? I've read that these lasts 6-9 months right? How can I tell that they are still good?

Thanks in advance. Didnt mean to hijack my own thread.
 
Yes, put gate/ball valves where you want to keep the water from running on the floor when you take the union apart.
 
Yup, except in circumstances where it's only can be a little water - I put valves. Turn the valve, unscrew the union ... only minimal water from in the plumbing itself.

There's also something called a `true union ball valve' that is a ball valve with a union on each side ... so you can unhook either side of the valve [as a union]. Not at all cheap, though.

Great questions, you won't regret starting to learn before you get things rolling.



What do the bulbs look like on the setup? The bulbs themselves can tell you the difference:
Once you know the type [ask the wattage too] then you can ask the specific `can I keep what I'm looking to with these?' question :)

VHO - look quite similar to standard flourescents, straight, maybe 1.5" around.

Power Compact - bulbs are always in an extended `U' shape. Like this
24.gif

May or may not have a reflector.

T-5 look similar to standard flourescent `tube' bulbs [like VHO] ... but these are about as big around as a nickel. Thin bulbs like a PC - but where PC is always the `U' shape with the complete sprocket on one end - VHO/T-5 have sprockets on both ends. Bulb size between PC + T-5 isn't much different, shape completely.
Will generally have a reflector, a better one than you'd see for PC or VHO - often can be for each bulb.

Metal Halide - There are two varieties, both are in a reflector most often.
`Single Ended'/SE/Mogul
german.jpg

Has one screw-in base - other end of bulb is not attached to anything. Some have behind glass, but many run these without any acrylic/glass `shielding' between it + water.
If you see one that's not in a reflector - this will likely be it.
`Double Ended'/DE/`hqi'
hqibulb.jpg

Fits into a holder similar to a halogen lamp - held at both ends. Smaller bulbs, often incorporating an efficient reflector design -- always with UV-shielding glass below. [read well on this before running this before running any without a shield]

That's the basic bulb types, so you can ID what you're looking at.

Have you seen waterkeeper's thread on lighting?

What are you looking to keep in your tank?
What are you going for?
I guess those are my additional questions ...
Good lord ... `sprockets' :lmao:
 
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And before I forget ...

<img src="/images/welcome.gif" width="500" height="62"><br><b><i><big><big>To Reef Central</b></i></big></big>

Glad to have you here, and posting. And reading before that.

Don't hesitate to ask questions, we all did when just getting into the hobby ... and still do :)
 
Middletonmark.

It looks similar to the power compact bulbs u have listed.
It is 96 watts. 34 inches long. coralife brand. square pin ends.

One is 10,000k flourescent. The other is 10,000k actinic.

It looks like there is a reflector too.

Is this enough wattage if I want to set up a reef with sps and lps?
Will probably just have 2 perc clown fish and a lionfish. My gf likes the lionfish. Will have a shallow sand bed, just for looks. I probably will have a refugium with 5 inch sand bed.

I'll have more questions as they come up.
 
What size is the tank?

What kind of corals/inverts interest you most?

Never kept a lionfish, but I'd be wary with one [eating my other fish ... then again, I like small fish, like lionfish ;)]
IMO, best as the `final fish' for the tank - they eat a lot [high bioload] and given you probably don't want to re-arrange the rockwork often with it in there [as most folks do IMO the first while of getting the tank going well] ... I'd schedule that as the very last thing you add IMO.
 
Its a 105 oceanic rr tank. 48 horizontal x 28 high x 18 deep.

I plan on drilling 4x 1" holes in the back. 2 on top, 2 in the middle spaced about 6 inches from the left and right edges for a closed loop. I will also drill a 1 1/2 inch hole in the middle for water to flow the a pump.

I will make a rockwall using smaller rocks that slope down to bigger rocks using eggcrate. I would like for the 4 returns to shoot through the rockwall. My main goal is to not show anything not related to a reef. Do you think this is enough waterflow? I thinkg seios or tunzes or mjs look ugly.

I don't know many names of corals, but I do like the look of the colorful stony spined corals. The plan is to put them to the rock slope so that each coral will have sufficient lighting.

But back to the lighting... is it mh lighting that I have? Are 2 u-shaped 96 watt 10k bulbs enough?

The lionfish is a pretty slow fish, I don't think it can catch a clownfish. Do you think it will try to eat them?
 
U shaped bulbs make me think that's 2 96w PC bulbs ... not a lot of light on what is a fairly tall tank.

There's a TON of options on lighting, of course somewhat dependent on the livestock you'd like to keep. A lot of people with good opinions/experience on the subject too.

As for corals, do you mean something like these?
28196acro-slug.jpg

28196corals.jpg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6769239#post6769239 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by vraskal
The lionfish is a pretty slow fish, I don't think it can catch a clownfish. Do you think it will try to eat them?
Let me repeat, I've never kept a lionfish. I don't know.

A dwarf, with a pair of larger clownfish ... maybe. You'd have to ask someone who has had one for a long time, I'm sure they'd know what to suggest to house it with far better than any of us who talk from books, not experience.

But I would always be wary of a fish with a mouth `big enough'. [or whose mouth can grow faster than the other fish]
 
I just uploaded some pics to my gallery of the upgrade I did with my new 96 gallon water storage container and new upgraded PVC unions and ball valves last night. Thanks city of Fort Wayne.
 
Freed.

Thanks for the pictures.
I guess in relative to the flow of water, the gate valve should be placed before a union is installed.

If I am installing a closed loop, from the return line should first be a gate valve, followed by a union, then pvc up to the bulkhead on the tank right? Should I have a union and gatevalve at the bulkheads also? If so, for what reason. Thanks..
 
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