will this stand work?

RiffRaff

New member
<a href="http://s33.photobucket.com/albums/d55/bodypiercer/?action=view&current=tankstandbuild.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d55/bodypiercer/tankstandbuild.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
I'm building a stand for a 72 gal bow front. Assuming the boards are all 2x6's and the green hexagons represent where I'll have my vertical support placements. I know the lines are a little crooked but this is just a preliminary sketch and I'll straighten them out later. But top picture just is where i placed a little tank diagram for me to work off of.
 
Just make sure your drain and return lines don't run through one of your support.
Assuming the over flow you drew in is an indication of a reef ready tank.
 
<a href="http://s33.photobucket.com/albums/d55/bodypiercer/?action=view&current=tankstandbuild.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d55/bodypiercer/tankstandbuild.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
I'm building a stand for a 72 gal bow front. Assuming the boards are all 2x6's and the green hexagons represent where I'll have my vertical support placements. I know the lines are a little crooked but this is just a preliminary sketch and I'll straighten them out later. But top picture just is where i placed a little tank diagram for me to work off of.

looking at this again i would remove the two yellow 2x4s from and just leave the outside and the center brace. You will be more than fine with that
 
That was just a generic bow front diagram I found on google. I'm actually goin to be drilling in the back center of the tank. So if I were to remove any 2x4's it would have to be the center
 
I would just build the entire stand from 3/4 ply. Maybe have some 2x2 in the corners for pocket screws. Plenty strong and will give you more usable space inside the stand.
 
My Oceanic 72g BF manufacturers stand is made of 3/4 particleboard walls and 15/16 top plate. Probably has a combination of screws and glued joints - cant see behind the finished surfaces. Big consideration is clear space in the front to get a decent sump in there. A 10in wide sump is the maximum if placed toward the very end of cabinet. The front has one third of the front center as an opening (has curved glass door). Trying to fit a skimmer and a heater in the sump is a problem. (do not use particleboard - bad for water contact)
 
Back
Top