WIRING the ELN-60-48D

[vanz]

If you are running 12 or 13 LEDs on your '48' you don't need to mess with the voltage adjust.

You can change the settings with the driver on. Be very careful you touch nothing when that driver is plugged in. Anything could be live, like those pieces of metal.

On your meter, if you change things over to current measure absolutely always power down. Remember if you interrupt the chain while the driver is powered - you will fry the chain.

Also, always unplug the meter current lead from the meter and replug it into the voltage position IMMEDIATELY when done measuring current. Not doing that will surly result in you picking up the probes and trying to measure a voltage while the meter is in current mode. Result - blown meter.

thank you kind sir. maybe I should sober up before I mess with the wiring. :dance:

 

[vanz]

umm not sure what happened...but I'm reading 1.82 on my multimeter on the 10A setting and it's turned all the way counter clockwise multiple times. I tried three times, but the numbers aren't changing. It lights up though...

That was for the royal blue line. The whites I had a reading of .31 when I started and adjusted to ~.7...the numbers kept jumping and it got me scared when it jumped to 1.5, then back to .5. That knob is very touchy.

help? Also, i'm using a new 9v battery as my dimming source. It had a V reading of around 9.7 when I started.

 

[vanz]

ttt

I just picked up an alc unit and will try it shortly after I update all the firmware.

Anyone got a reason why I cannot adjust my current? And is there a fix if that pot is damaged?

 

[TheFishMan65]

vanz,

You can probably repace the pot if you have to; I did on a power supply. Try switching the drivers (if you can) and see if it changes. What is your driver? Are all the blues on bright or dim? Are they all the same? I ssome of the current going through the heat sink? Double check the wiringing; is it the same as white? Check these things out; sorry I don't have a better suggestion.

 

[vanz]

vanz,

You can probably repace the pot if you have to; I did on a power supply. Try switching the drivers (if you can) and see if it changes. What is your driver? Are all the blues on bright or dim? Are they all the same? I ssome of the current going through the heat sink? Double check the wiringing; is it the same as white? Check these things out; sorry I don't have a better suggestion.

thank you for your response. I'll try to switch the driver (it's the MW eln-48D) with the white and see what I come up with. The blues were all bright when it lit. And they were the same brightness.

I believe the wiring is the same as the white...it's just pos to neg throughout in series.

I'm having issues with updating my firmware with the rkl :fun5:

 

[vanz]

I used the driver that powered the white lights okay on the blue and it read exactly the same. I guess something is wrong with the driver. I hooked it up to the alc with a 10v source, but got the exact same reading of 1.82 as I did on a 9v battery.

I'm soooooo close!

 

[vanz]

anyone got a solution? Where do I get spare parts and how would I replace the pot?

Also when I turned the pot counter clockwise, was it ever suppose to stop? I never felt any resistance so kept going. I did the same for the other driver, but it turned out okay.

 

[TheFishMan65]

If you change the pots you should have a current meter in series to see what the changes are. It sure sounds like you have a bad driver. I would try contactng the seller since you don't know for sure what is wrong.

 

[vanz]

If you change the pots you should have a current meter in series to see what the changes are. It sure sounds like you have a bad driver. I would try contactng the seller since you don't know for sure what is wrong.

I bought it from a group buy, I contacted the person who headed it to see what my options are. Hopefully I'm not SOL because it was through a group buy.

 

[CJO]

anyone got a solution? Where do I get spare parts and how would I replace the pot?

Also when I turned the pot counter clockwise, was it ever suppose to stop? I never felt any resistance so kept going. I did the same for the other driver, but it turned out okay.

Are you saying that the other driver is working fine and it's just the one driver?

CJ

 

[popper231]

ok, i finally got it...i've asked for pictures, but nobody seem to have them. i hope this picture will cure some frustrations from those that was like me.

the potentiometer aka driver (i think) connects to the meanwell, and you also need a power source (wallwart) 10v 1A. I got one off ebay. then the other end of the meanwell, you just need either a 2 prong or 3 prong regular power cord. if you use 3 prongs, don't use the middle wire.

 

[TheFishMan65]

popper is also posting in the DIY LED - The write up. I had a few questions I figure they as well be asked both places (you never know where people will look).

popper,

Maybe I can't see it where is the fourth (white ?) wire on the MeanWell used for dimming? It should go to the ground of the wall wart, if I am reading the data sheet correctly.

I few suggestions from what I am reading. Go get some shrink tubing and get rid of the tape. Also it looks like you are running 2 strings in parallel. If so can the max voltage damage one string? Have you considered fuses or resistors?

What are/where those heat sinks?

 

[CJO]

ok, i finally got it...i've asked for pictures, but nobody seem to have them. i hope this picture will cure some frustrations from those that was like me.

the potentiometer aka driver (i think) connects to the meanwell

Thanks for getting the pics up. I had planned to do this sometime soon, but hadn't had the chance.

FYI- the driver is the meanwell.

CJ

 

[popper231]

the wires from the wallart goes to the opposite side of the of the potentiometer (one on each end). there's only one white wire and it's from the meanwell. second picture shows it's underneath the blue wire

i connected the wallwart to the potentiometer and LED wasn't bright, so I swapped the wire and BAM, it was bright.

 

[Bzar]

I just got a few of these drivers....had a simple question about grounding them. Since the driver doesn't come with a ground would it be a good idea to mount them to a piece of metal (aluminium?) then connect the metal to the ground of a three prong cord and connect the other two wires from the cord to the driver?

 

[TheFishMan65]

There have been mixed opinion. Either don't ground or ground to the heat sink. Both have there advantages. You could also do what you suggest. The meanwells don't require grounding. At least this is what I have decided after all my reading.

 

[NeverlosT]

hmmm. popper, yours is wired differently than the previous diagrams, they have 12 LEDs in series and you have two strings of 6 in parrallel it looks like. What are the impacts of this design change?

Thanks!

 

[popper231]

hmmm. popper, yours is wired differently than the previous diagrams, they have 12 LEDs in series and you have two strings of 6 in parrallel it looks like. What are the impacts of this design change?

Thanks!

it works fine because it total 12 led bulbs. dont need to be in series as long as they're wired correctly.

 

[TheFishMan65]

His voltage is half - he could run 2 strings of 12 each. The catch is the current is split so each string gets about half the current. If one string opens the other could be blown if proper precautions are not taken. And one string could hog the current and plow.

 

[bamf25]

In general if you have the RB XP-E's you set them to 700mA and the white XP-G's get set to 1000 mA. Is that correct? Now when you mix colors what mA setting do you use?

Also, does anyone have a picture how the multimeter is placed into the string?