Would vodka/sugar speed cooking process?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7359630#post7359630 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ChinChek787
I thought that most people ran a skimmer while they were cooking the liverock.

Nope. Just weekly dunk n' swish with 100% water change every week.

Here is a C&P of SeanT's rock cooking recipe.

" How to "cook" your rock.
Here is the process.

The purpose of "cooking" your rocks is to have the bacteria consume all (or as much) organic material and PO4 stored on, and in, the rock as possible.
The first step to this is commitment.
You have to be willing to remove your rock from the tank.
It doesn't have to be all at once, but I feel if you are going to do this do it all. In stages if that is easier but make sure that all of it gets done.
The new environment you are creating for your rock is to take it from an algal driven to a bacterial driven system.
In order to do this, the rock needs to be in total darkness to retard and eventually kill the algae's on the rock and to give the bacteria time to do the job.
So basically you need tubs to hold the rock.
Equipment needed.
1. Dedication.
2. Tubs to cook rock in. And an equal amount of tubs to hold the rock during waterchanges.
3. A few powerheads.
4. Plenty of buckets.
5. A smug feeling of superiority that you are taking it to "the next level."
6. Saltwater, enough made up to follow the instructions below and to replenish your tank after removing rocks.

Here are the steps:
1. Get into your head and accept the fact you will be making lots of salt water if you aren't lucky enough to have access to filtered NSW.
2. Explain to significant other what is going on so they don't flip out. This process can take up to 2 months. Prepare them in advance so he/she can mark it on the calendar and that they won't nag about it until that date arrives.
3. Setup a tub(s) where the rock is to be cooked. Garages are great for this.
4. Make up enough water to fill tub(s) about halfway and around 5-7 buckets about 60% full.
5. Remove all the rock you want to cook at this stage. (The rock can be removed piece by piece until you are done.) I suggest shutting off the circulation beforehand to minimize dust storms.
6. Take the first piece of rock and dunk it, swish it, very, very well in the first bucket. Then do it again in the 2nd bucket, then the third.
7. Place rock in the tub.
8. Repeat steps 6 & 7 to every piece of rock you want to cook at this time. The reason I suggested 5-7 buckets of water will be evident quickly...as the water quickly turns brown.
9. Place powerhead(s) in the tub and plug in. Position at least one powerhead so that it agitates the surface of the water pretty well. This is to keep the water oxygenated. You can use an air pump for additional oxygenation if you wish. Only one powerhead per tub is needed. Remember the powerheads main responsibility is the oxygenation of the water.
10. Cover the tub. Remember, we want TOTAL darkness.
11. Empty out buckets, restart circulation on main tank.
12. Wait.
13. During the first couple of weeks it is recommended to do a swishing and dunking of the rocks twice a week.
What this entails is to make up enough water to fill up those buckets and the tub the rock is in.
First, lay out your empty tub(s) and fill buckets the same as before.
Then, uncover tub with the rock in it. Take a rock and swish it in the tub it's in to knock any easy to get off junk.
Then, swish it thru the 3 buckets again, and place in the empty tub..
Repeat for all your rocks.
Then empty the tub that all the rocks were cooking in, take it outside and rinse it out with a hose.
Place tub back where it was, fill with new saltwater, add rocks and powerheads, and cover.
Wait again until the next water change.
You will be utterly amazed at how much sand, silt, detritus is at the bottom of the tub and every bucket. It is amazing.
At times the stench was so strong I gagged.

How it works:
Some FAQ's.
When re-introducing the rock to my tank, a month or two from now, should I do that in parts to help minimize any cycling effect(s)...if there are any?
I never have. Really after a very short while, the ammonium cycle has been established. That's not what you're worry about though, it's the stored phosphates and that you have to wait it out.
When they are producing very little detritus - you'll know - then I would use them all at once.
Would running Carbon filtration and/or a PO4 reducing media help/hurry/hinder the process?
I wouldn't fool with it. You don't want the detritus to sit there long enough to rot, release water soluble P again. You want to take it out while it's still locked up in that bacterial detritus.
I would say that 85% of my exposed rock had Bryopsis (hair algae) covering it.
There isn't a single visible strand on any rocks my tank now.
Remember, the key is patience. Let this process run its course.
And a few last minute tidbits I remembered.
Your coralline will die back, recede etc.
My thoughts on this are GREAT!
Now my rock is more porous for additional pods, mysids, worms etc.
Coralline will grow back.
Throughout this process the sponges, and pods on my rock have not died off.
Every time I do a water change they are there and plentiful.
Remember, once you place your rock back into your tank you will need a specialized cleanup crew.
I recommend Astrea's and Cerith's, 2 to 1.
-Astrea's are great at harvesting algae.
-Cerith's are great at harvesting other algae - and - astrea poop.
-Cerith's will make the astrea poop easier for you to harvest with a skimmer."


HTH

David
 
Well, if vodka increases bacteria productivity and reproduction and the decomposition of orgainc matter then I would think that it would speed the removal of phosphate from live rock.

But this depends. If your soaking the live rock in saltwater without the removal of the old water perodically, then the organics wich the bacteria settle on the bottom will be decomposed again-phosphates-nitrates in the surrounding water. Wich could absorb inside of live rock all over again. A never ending process.

Changing the water frequently would help with the additon of vodka. But more effectively would be to use a skimmer with the soaking process. This way the orgainc matter is getting removed and not allowed to recycle itself all over again. Also, the skimmer would help with oxgyen production, wich the bacteria would need i think. Aerobically.
 
And one had best not make assumptions about folks backround experience without really knowing.

Just might be completely wrong ;)
Good point ... ;)


... `all the same' ... not recommended.
Oh ... that's completely different. I was referring to how different bacterial strains utilize different substrates in ways which produce different biomass growth rates, nutrient assimilation rates, and oxygen consumption rates.

What ought, or ought not, be recommended in terms of substrate selection (if any) is something folks should ... IMO ... decide for themselves after some basic research (hence the references).


JMO ... HTH
:wavehand:
 
The whole "rock cooking" process falls somewhere between alchemy and witchcraft. Starving a biomass of nutrients is an indescriminant killer. You would lose an equal number of beneficial and nuisance organisms through such a practice. As much as you need to tip the scales of nature in a captive marine system, "rock cooking" is one step forward, ten steps backward.

If you have a nuisance algae problem, you would be better off finding and eliminating your phosphate and silicate import source (likely source water, unrinsed frozen foods, and garlic). Ferric hydroxide based media will remove bioavailable PO4. Your calcareous media (substrate and rock) will then leech its' PO4 cache into the water column, making it available for adsorption by ferric media. Certainly a more efficient method of removing phosphates while keeping beneficial organisms intact.

This principal can be clearly proven by doing a 50% water change, then confirming a measurement of 1/2 the previous amount of PO4 in your water. Test the water in 24 hours (after your calcareous media has leeched bioavailable PO4) and you will find the value has returned to the original level.

Phosphate is a surfactant (surface active agent) and binds only to the surface of calcareous media. Sand has far greater surface area and holds more PO4 than rock. You would remove a greater number of PO4 by discarding your calcareous substrate, rather than "treating" your rock. Acid neutralizes the phosphorous on the surface of calcareous media.

The idea of "starving algae to death" is a fallacy. Nuisance algae takes on a life of its' own once it reaches a critical mass. Cyanobacteria, such as derbasia and briopsis (hair algae), are able to proliferate in the absence of phosphates, through carbon fixing alone.

If your rock is FUBAR, then bleach it (sodium hypochlorite @ 50 mg/l) and kill everything on it. If you are still worried about bound PO4, spray the surface with a weak acid (hydrochloric, not phosphoric). Be careful not to mix acid and chlorine as it forms deadly mustard gas.

The "cooking" process doesn't allow for a bioload (nitrogen source) to preserve the culture of autotrophic bacteria. Heterotrophic bacteria will also die back with a limited carbon source. When you return your "cooked" rock to the display tank, you will have little or no probiotics to out-compete diatom algae and cyanobacteria (green & red). The lack of photosynthesis during the "cooking" process will kill-off any coraline algae, thus giving a foothold to nuisance algae.

The (almost) lifeless rock rendered from the "cooking" process would require ammonium chloride and sodium nitrite dosing to aid with the cycling process, as no nitrogen source would be available to feed nitrifying bacteria. The practice of "cooking rock" would also foster the growth of benthic invertebrates in a dark environment with low flow rates. While these are beneficial organisms, they will quickly parish once returned to the full illumination and flow rates of the display tank. The die-off of these benthic invertebrates (sponges, tunicates, barnacles, and serpulid worms) will expedite the return of nuisance algae.

If there's something to the "cooking" theory that I'm missing, I'd love to hear it.
 
If your rock is FUBAR, then bleach it (sodium hypochlorite @ 50 mg/l) and kill everything on it. If you are still worried about bound PO4, spray the surface with a weak acid (hydrochloric, not phosphoric). Be careful not to mix acid and chlorine as it forms deadly mustard gas.

That is what I did. This might sound gross or weird to most of you but I did it in the dishwasher (after rinsing it to make sure the sand wouldn't screw up the dishwasher. I threw a cup of bleach in (no soap) and set it on pots and pans. When it came out it was VERY clean (everything was gone, bubble algae, aptasia anemonies, sponges, etc). Then I placed it in a tub of water outside to allow the chlorine to escape from the rock and evaporate. I took the rock out and smelled it to make sure the chlorine smell was gone before I added some viniger to the water and allowed it to soak for a while. Then I put the hose into the bucket and just let it run (I waste water like no one else, something I'm not proud of). Right now it is sitting in the aquarium waiting to be seeded.
 
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