Wrasses and Hypo vs Copper

[adamwheel]

I've QT'd every fish for the full 8 weeks and all received 2 treatments of Prazi. Chevron Tang recieved Cupramine as well.

My Chevron Tang and Rhomboid Wrasse are both showing signs of ich. My new 178 gallon has only been stocked for 6 weeks, so I think going fallow for 10-12 weeks would be my best bet since the system is so young.

Questions:

1. Do you agree with going fallow or should I just remove the 2 fish showing signs of ich.

2. Right now, since I've added mostly wrasses, I'm worried about Hypo vs Copper in my QT/Hospital (40 gal breeder fully cycled for over a year). I'm assuming hypo would be most gentle but am looking for advice. Tank transfer would be the least desirable as I have new fish in my second QT.

I am very willing to be patient and just want to do this right.

Thanks,

Adam

 

[sleepydoc]

1. Go fallow; it's the only way to ensure a 'clean' system.

2. I would go with cupramine, but go slowly when adding it and bringing the levels up (1/4 ~ 1/2 the dose on the bottle) and check often. Done properly, hypo is fairly low stress on the fish. Properly being the key word. From experience, hypo is actually quite difficult to do properly. Too high and it won't work, too low and it becomes a major stress. The 'safe' zone is quite narrow. There are also reports of hypo-resistant strains of ich. I'm not sure it they are actually resistant or if it's simply a failure in the procedure.

You can actually do tank transfer with buckets or rubbermaid containers; you don't need an actual tank, so the fact that you've got fish in your QT doesn't automatically exclude it.

 

[snorvich]

1. Go fallow; it's the only way to ensure a 'clean' system.

2. I would go with cupramine, but go slowly when adding it and bringing the levels up (1/4 ~ 1/2 the dose on the bottle) and check often. Done properly, hypo is fairly low stress on the fish. Properly being the key word. From experience, hypo is actually quite difficult to do properly. Too high and it won't work, too low and it becomes a major stress. The 'safe' zone is quite narrow. There are also reports of hypo-resistant strains of ich. I'm not sure it they are actually resistant or if it's simply a failure in the procedure.

You can actually do tank transfer with buckets or rubbermaid containers; you don't need an actual tank, so the fact that you've got fish in your QT doesn't automatically exclude it.

Agreed. That is also what I would suggest.

 

[MrTuskfish]

Agreed. That is also what I would suggest.

I agree as well. just curious; you mention that your QT has been cycled for a year. Have you been using ghost feeding or something similar to keep it cycled? Or keeping filter media in your DT system to load up on bacteria?

 

[adamwheel]

Thanks for the advice guys.

I removed all fish except the chevron and my bonded pair of gold headed gobies (couldn't catch them yet). The Reef Gently Acclimate is a nice trap by the way. All wrasses swam right in after nori.

After one day, all signs are gone. The rhomboid had 2 white dots on one of his pectoral fins. So did the chevron. Is it possible it was something else? If so what? I'm not trying to take shortcuts but am wondering if it was just stress related. I watch the fish a lot right now since the system is new, so they really only showed symptoms for a day.

I used Reef Doctor's method for QT.

Cycled the tank initially with table shrimp and use the ceramic plugs in the net (Aqua Clear 50 insert) for bacteria. I've left a Bangai in the 40 gal throughout the year to keep bacteria population rather than ghost feeding.

I haven't seen an ammonia spike in my QT since the early stages.

 

[Deinonych]

Spots disappearing are just the parasite going through its life cycle. It's easy to get lulled into a false sense of security when symptoms suddenly go away. Do yourself a favor and treat now while the fishes' health is not compromised.

 

[snorvich]

While I do not know the details of "Reef Doctor's" quarantine protocol, either the protocol was flawed, or you made an error. Remember that ich does not have to present itself visibly to be present, so any quarantine strategy that depends solely on visible identification has the potential to work improperly. If you did tank transfer, you would be good but at this point it sounds as if you need to let your display tank go fallow for 72 days and do tank transfer with the existing fish in order to eliminate the parasite.

 

[adamwheel]

I agree. I treated with Prazi (2 doses) on all fish and cupramine on tang only. I think tank transfer is going to be worth the effort to be sure this time and fallow for the 72 days.

Main concern: Grey Head wrasse. Do I give him a tupperware bowl with sand in each vessel or make him go without?

 

[snorvich]

I agree. I treated with Prazi (2 doses) on all fish and cupramine on tang only. I think tank transfer is going to be worth the effort to be sure this time and fallow for the 72 days.

Main concern: Grey Head wrasse. Do I give him a tupperware bowl with sand in each vessel or make him go without?

No, wrasses that sleep in the sand, need a fresh bowl of sand in each transfer tank. (discard sand after usage)