Yellow tang - ich

[Cohibaman]

I'm treating a yellow tang for ich in a 20 gal hospital tank that I brought down to 11ppt salinity (1.008 - 1.009) and he's been there for 8 days now with two maroon clowns. Using a calibrated refractometer.

Yesterday I made the first water change - 5 gallons matching 11ppt salinity, temp, and pH. He was eating like a pig the whole time (even within an hour of transfer to the 20 gal tank). Today, he's on his side with heavy respiration. I'm wondering if it's ich at this point. Maroons are just fine.

In the day tank, he developed several white spots the size of table salt. Never more than 5-6 spots. They would clear up in a day or two and a few more would show up, they cleared up, rinse, repeat. Typical of ich. So I decided to treat with hypo. The maroons showed no signs of spots at all, but I hypo'd them as well just to be sure. While in hypo, the 5 existing spots on the tang never cleared up and one is kind of reddish this morning.

Any chance it's NOT ich?

 

[HumbleFish]

Any chance it's NOT ich?

Sounds like Ich, but hypo resistant strains are known to exist. I also would perform a f/w dip to confirm/rule out the possibility of flukes affecting his gills. Shouldn't be too stressful for him, seeing he's already in hypo.

 

[Cohibaman]

I thought about that and your advise prompted me to do a freshwater dip. Added pinch of salt to RO (pH meters don't like pure water), adjusted pH & temp, and aerated. Scooped him out of hospital tank by hand. He fought a bit. I lowered him in freshwater for 10 mins. He laid on his side again, but his breathing got slower. I didn't see anything come off of him and I don't know if he's breathing slower because he can breathe easier or if he's now weaker. Next few hours will tell. Fingers crossed!

 

[snorvich]

While ich does look like table salt and will disappear only to return. If a freshwater dip provided relief, I would also be concerned about velvet. Did you read the ich and velvet stickies in this forum?

 

[HumbleFish]

I thought about that and your advise prompted me to do a freshwater dip. Added pinch of salt to RO (pH meters don't like pure water), adjusted pH & temp, and aerated. Scooped him out of hospital tank by hand. He fought a bit. I lowered him in freshwater for 10 mins. He laid on his side again, but his breathing got slower. I didn't see anything come off of him and I don't know if he's breathing slower because he can breathe easier or if he's now weaker. Next few hours will tell. Fingers crossed!

If the YT appears to starting having equilibrium issues, you may need to hold him upright (use rubber or latex gloves), and move him gently thru the water to get s/w flowing thru his gills again. I've had to do this a time or two after performing a f/w dip.

 

[Cohibaman]

Sadly, the yellow tang didn't make it. I removed him from the tank and took a closer look at him. Nothing unusual except for a red area on the right pectoral fin where it meets the body (analogous to our armpit).

 

[HumbleFish]

Near the gill area? That would indicate ammonia burn.

 

[Cohibaman]

Hmmmm. The red area was indeed behind the gill opening, but it was right where the pectoral fin joins the body. If it's ammonia burn, wouldn't both sides turn red and moreless apparent on the gills rather than the point where the fin meets the body?

 

[HumbleFish]

Hmmmm. The red area was indeed behind the gill opening, but it was right where the pectoral fin joins the body. If it's ammonia burn, wouldn't both sides turn red and moreless apparent on the gills rather than the point where the fin meets the body?

The redness is usually first evident around the gills, but as it continues you may see red streaks on the body as well. I think the red streaks are mostly from damaged tissue and hemorrhaging. Have you tested the QT he was in for ammonia?

 

[Cohibaman]

I checked several times first few days and none detected. I then checked nitrates, which were about 20, so I did the water change to bring it down a bit. Maybe falsely assuming healthy bacteria. I'll kick myself if it was ammonia.

 

[MrTuskfish]

I checked several times first few days and none detected. I then checked nitrates, which were about 20, so I did the water change to bring it down a bit. Maybe falsely assuming healthy bacteria. I'll kick myself if it was ammonia.

Sorry you lost him. Ammonia is a big enemy in an HT/QT and there are ways to control it; depending on treatment. ANY ammonia should never be tolerated. There's no reason to even test nitrate in a QT/HT; nitrate doesn't bother fish, its a big issue for corals and other inverts, though.

 

[Cohibaman]

Sorry you lost him.

Thanks! It always sucks to lose one.

There's no reason to even test nitrate in a QT/HT; nitrate doesn't bother fish...

I fully realize ammonia is ALWAYS toxic, hence my checking levels early on, especially in hyposalinity where keeping bacteria healthy can be challenging. I also understand nitrates aren't as critical with fish only tanks, but I still strive to keep nitrates below 20ppm in my fish only tanks. I was always under the impression that 40ppm for fish only was high and should be avoided, so you're statement that I don't need to check nitrates kinda surprises me.

 

[MrTuskfish]

Sorry you lost him.

Thanks! It always sucks to lose one.

There's no reason to even test nitrate in a QT/HT; nitrate doesn't bother fish...

I fully realize ammonia is ALWAYS toxic, hence my checking levels early on, especially in hyposalinity where keeping bacteria healthy can be challenging. I also understand nitrates aren't as critical with fish only tanks, but I still strive to keep nitrates below 20ppm in my fish only tanks. I was always under the impression that 40ppm for fish only was high and should be avoided, so you're statement that I don't need to check nitrates kinda surprises me.

Outside of a few anecdotal reports regarding certain species; I've never read anything that says that nitrate, at any level, hurts fish. I do think high nitrates in a FOWLR tank are a sign of poor housekeeping, but 40ppm is nowhere near any level that will hurt fish. I won't post how high I've had nitrates in my FOWLR tanks, but is was far above 40ppm. Fenners book, the Conscience marine Aquarist, mentions fish being kept with nitrates in the hundreds, even thousands ppm with no problems. I certainly don't suggest this, but nitrate in a QT should never be a problem.