Zeovit - System

[karsseboom]

Zeovit recommend the use of there other blue bottles when p04 and n03 are low lke cv pohls extra amino acids k balance to name a few
Zeovit is like a two part system the first stones bak start and sponge power to reduce nutrients
The second is the additives and elements
So I dont think you can call them pictures good and bad zeo

Robbie

Cuna is merely suggesting what he thinks works for his system. In the pictures he posted he showing how corals can look with overly aggressive approach to zeovit system. I'm pretty sure he uses other zeovit products also but he trying to help others get there systems balanced first. That's why in the basic guide to zeovit there is never a set amount of dosing per system volume. It's always based on your own observation. The suggested numbers are give you a ball park idea.

 

[karsseboom]

Hello
A fellow reefer told me he tried oyster feast and he does not like it because it raises phosphates like mad. In his opinion, that is. I guess all things have a postive and a negative. It is how we use the supplements that matters most.

Dosing the correct amount to feed your sps while not overfeeding is the key.

I want to try oyster feast. Does anyone know where i can get it online?

It's a balancing act. You need to adjust your dosing based on what your tank consumes. I have been feeding oyster feast almost daily for 3 weeks and my po4 was 0.03 so that's were I want to be.

 

[Jstn]

Hi Justin,

You could be right. I had to deal with bad rock once. I was not able to get my phosphate down until I removed ALL of the rock and sand from my system. My rock and sand had constant outbreaks of cyno. My phosphate would fluctuate on a daily basis... That was the event that made my tank what it is today... almost completely free of sand and rock. The 1 piece of rock I have was added later, after all of the bad rock was removed. I have enough sand in a Tupperware container for my wrasse to sleep in. Other than that, there is no rock or sand in my tank. Keeping my tank clean is extremely easy now. All of my biologic filtration is done with the use of the Zeovit System.

Warmest Regards,
James

I just stirred up my sand, added a filter socks and turned skimming to wet. One would think washed sand + cleaned rock would be more sterile than it is, strange. Also I am not dosing sponge power, I was thinking of starting this, and looking at biomate for my phosphates. How do you feel about this or should I just chill and do zeolites, food7, bak and start?

Thanks for all your insight, this has been more helpful than the zeovit boards, do you have links to pics of your tank?

 

[cmaxwell39]

Hey James and other Zeo experts. I have been contemplating switching to zeo. I currently dose vinegar and have been fairly happy with the results. I can't really complain about coral color, although there are a few pieces that I just can't seem to color up well.

My biggest problem with the tank is build up of detritus in the rock work and the sand bed (I know I should be more diligent about cleaning both, but life gets really busy sometimes.) Do you guys think just adding the biomate/zz routine to my current setup would help with the issues I am having? It is not overly bad, but I just wonder if this would help me take it to the next level???

Here is a recent FTS of my tank (probably about a month and a half old)

TIA.

 

[Rwpdunne]

Cuna is merely suggesting what he thinks works for his system. In the pictures he posted he showing how corals can look with overly aggressive approach to zeovit system. I'm pretty sure he uses other zeovit products also but he trying to help others get there systems balanced first. That's why in the basic guide to zeovit there is never a set amount of dosing per system volume. It's always based on your own observation. The suggested numbers are give you a ball park idea.

I know he is only posting his experience with zeovit
I asked on the previous page What other products he uses he doesn't he feeds oyster eggs

 

[CUNAReefer]

I know he is only posting his experience with zeovit
I asked on the previous page What other products he uses he doesn't he feeds oyster eggs

Hi Robbie, Hope all is well! Normally I do use Pohls Extra. I also have used spur, AAHC, CS, ZZ, Food7, and BM. All of them do something different. Right now, I am only doing the basics. I restarted my zeo from the beginning to help show another reefer how to ease into Zeovit. My tank is running pretty stable with zeo right now. I still want to wait a couple weeks before I start using other supplements. When I do start to use the supplements, I want to be able to show before/after pics.

Warmest Regards,
James

 

[Chrisrush]

Hi Chris,

If your phosphate is .02, your right in that perfect zone. You can use the bio-mate and sponge power. Can you tell me what you want to use them for? The highest I want you to keep your phosphate at is .03. How are the corals looking. Have you been feeding Oyster Feast at all?

Warmest Regards,
James

I have not fed any Oyster Feast yet. I fed my normal food mix on Friday and will check in the morning and feed again if necessary.

Corals are looking a little better, but since they were in .15+ PO4 for a while, they have taken a bit of a hit. My buddy is bringing a few frags over on Tues to test out the system with healthy corals.

I want to use the sponge power to increase sponges and their uptake in the tank and I want to use biomate to reduce the amount of mulm on my rocks, etc.

I left the zeobac out of the fridge the other night for 12 hours. I'm worried that it might be spoiled now. What does the spoiled version smell?

Thanks again for all your help James.

Chris

 

[CUNAReefer]

I have not fed any Oyster Feast yet. I fed my normal food mix on Friday and will check in the morning and feed again if necessary.

Corals are looking a little better, but since they were in .15+ PO4 for a while, they have taken a bit of a hit. My buddy is bringing a few frags over on Tues to test out the system with healthy corals.

I want to use the sponge power to increase sponges and their uptake in the tank and I want to use biomate to reduce the amount of mulm on my rocks, etc.

I left the zeobac out of the fridge the other night for 12 hours. I'm worried that it might be spoiled now. What does the spoiled version smell?

Thanks again for all your help James.

Chris

No problem, Chris. Does your zeobac smell like rotten eggs? Just to make sure I didn't misread somewhere... Your phosphate is around .02 correct?

 

[Chrisrush]

No problem, Chris. Does your zeobac smell like rotten eggs? Just to make sure I didn't misread somewhere... Your phosphate is around .02 correct?

It doesn't have a sulphur smell but it does smell different than before. It is back in the fridge and I'll check it on Tuesday when I dose again.

PO4 was .021 on the 14th. I'll check it in the morning. I dosed 8 drops of bac and 4 of SP and BM this evening.

 

[Jstn]

I changed 5 gal of water change, my PO4 is 0.60, my nitrates are at 5ppm, should I increase my Start from 0.4mL to 0.5mL to help combat this? I am going to change out my GFO, I am worried the PO4 are climbing too high too fast.

 

[CUNAReefer]

I changed 5 gal of water change, my PO4 is 0.60, my nitrates are at 5ppm, should I increase my Start from 0.4mL to 0.5mL to help combat this? I am going to change out my GFO, I am worried the PO4 are climbing too high too fast.

Hi Justin,

Please continue to use your GFO. Your phosphate is rising to fast. Something is contributing to the high phosphate in your system. Yesterday your phosphate was stable at .3 with the help of GFO. Today your phosphate is at .6? That is not good. Your going to have to do some detective work to isolate the source of your increase in phosphate.

James

 

[Jstn]

Also one of my acans puffed up for the first time in months !

I also stirred my sand bed during the water change and increased the flow, there was alot of crap buried under my rocks, maybe this contributed to my PO4 elevation.

 

[CUNAReefer]

So I have some thoughts on the use of GFO and the gradual entrance into Zeovit... There are quite a few reefers that have chosen to use GFO as a form of phosphate control. Granular Ferric Oxide is an excellent way to manage phosphate levels. Combined with bio pellets and GAC, you can maintain a ULNS easily. GFO is such an effective method of phosphate control that it is often inadvertently used to mask underlying issues that have a huge influence on phosphate levels in the reef aquarium. What I have noticed is when there is an underlying issue that is the cause of high phosphate levels, stopping the use of GFO (or any other form of phosphate reduction) causes a massive SPIKE in phosphate levels. The Zeo is not able to handle this with a gradual increase in media. When you ramp up zeo levels to quickly combat the increasing phosphate levels, you risk RIPPING other essential elements from your water to quickly. This is also where the transition to zeo become very tricky. Not only are you trying to transition to zeo, but now you have to find out what is feeding your high nutrient load. Zeovit is the most advance approach to keeping a colorful SPS population. Before taking the plunge into zeo, it is best for you to understand what your phosphate will do without the use of GFO. You eventually will need to take the GFO offline. Using the zeo as an aggressive means of phosphate control will most likely lead to very bad things.

The reefers that I am working with are learning how to use zeo with their system. We are also finding what contributes to phosphate and how much of a contributor each factor is. It’s been a bit of a challenge, but we are getting there. With my tank, I can use very little zeo media and have great results. The other tanks that have higher fish loads and more feeding requires more media. I'm finding that at 60% of the recommended zeo amount, things start to stabilize. I now have 60% of the recommended media in my own reactor and it is the most media I will use on my tank. More than 900ml in my reactor will lead to pale coloration and weak corals. In the other tanks I am working with, 60% is just the start. Further down the road, a lesser amount of media can be used in these other tanks. The issue with using the total amount of zeo immediately is the reason why I recommended the gradual increase in the first place. A sudden transition to zeo can lead to rtn, pale colors, as well as other issues. I am dedicated to helping my group of reefers transition to the full zeo method. I will continue to update everyone with the progress.

Final thought… Every tank is different. Every tank uses different forms of nutrient management. Some methods will make the transition a little tougher, but it still can be done. Hope everyone finds this information useful.

Calvin – Haven’t forgotten about your question. I’ll get back to you tomorrow evening when I’m back to answering questions again.

Warmest Regards,
James

 

[CUNAReefer]

Also one of my acans puffed up for the first time in months !

I also stirred my sand bed during the water change and increased the flow, there was alot of crap buried under my rocks, maybe this contributed to my PO4 elevation.

You beat me to it Justin. Hopefully the wet skimming helps out. James

 

[CUNAReefer]

Hey James and other Zeo experts. I have been contemplating switching to zeo. I currently dose vinegar and have been fairly happy with the results. I can't really complain about coral color, although there are a few pieces that I just can't seem to color up well.

My biggest problem with the tank is build up of detritus in the rock work and the sand bed (I know I should be more diligent about cleaning both, but life gets really busy sometimes.) Do you guys think just adding the biomate/zz routine to my current setup would help with the issues I am having? It is not overly bad, but I just wonder if this would help me take it to the next level???

Here is a recent FTS of my tank (probably about a month and a half old)

Hi Calvin, Biomate will help with mulm, but has never really had an impact on my detrtitus. Any chance of you getting a pic of the corals you are having trouble with? As my corals have grown, I have also had issues with detritus settling in spots blocked from flow. I get some green slime algae that signals the build up of detritus. My solution is to use a turkey baster to get the detritus into the water column. Another option is more flow in your tank. I may be opening up a can of worms here, but... maybe give a new jaebo wp40 a try. I added two under my racks and it does wonders for keeping the detritus in the water column. Also, if your ever on this side of the state again, swing by and I'll show you my system. Should help you get started if you ever want to take the plunge into zeo.

Warmest Regards,
James

 

[Patrick Cox]

So I have some thoughts on the use of GFO and the gradual entrance into Zeovit... There are quite a few reefers that have chosen to use GFO as a form of phosphate control. Granular Ferric Oxide is an excellent way to manage phosphate levels. Combined with bio pellets and GAC, you can maintain a ULNS easily. GFO is such an effective method of phosphate control that it is often inadvertently used to mask underlying issues that have a huge influence on phosphate levels in the reef aquarium. What I have noticed is when there is an underlying issue that is the cause of high phosphate levels, stopping the use of GFO (or any other form of phosphate reduction) causes a massive SPIKE in phosphate levels. The Zeo is not able to handle this with a gradual increase in media. When you ramp up zeo levels to quickly combat the increasing phosphate levels, you risk RIPPING other essential elements from your water to quickly. This is also where the transition to zeo become very tricky. Not only are you trying to transition to zeo, but now you have to find out what is feeding your high nutrient load. Zeovit is the most advance approach to keeping a colorful SPS population. Before taking the plunge into zeo, it is best for you to understand what your phosphate will do without the use of GFO. You eventually will need to take the GFO offline. Using the zeo as an aggressive means of phosphate control will most likely lead to very bad things.

The reefers that I am working with are learning how to use zeo with their system. We are also finding what contributes to phosphate and how much of a contributor each factor is. It's been a bit of a challenge, but we are getting there. With my tank, I can use very little zeo media and have great results. The other tanks that have higher fish loads and more feeding requires more media. I'm finding that at 60% of the recommended zeo amount, things start to stabilize. I now have 60% of the recommended media in my own reactor and it is the most media I will use on my tank. More than 900ml in my reactor will lead to pale coloration and weak corals. In the other tanks I am working with, 60% is just the start. Further down the road, a lesser amount of media can be used in these other tanks. The issue with using the total amount of zeo immediately is the reason why I recommended the gradual increase in the first place. A sudden transition to zeo can lead to rtn, pale colors, as well as other issues. I am dedicated to helping my group of reefers transition to the full zeo method. I will continue to update everyone with the progress.

Final thought"¦ Every tank is different. Every tank uses different forms of nutrient management. Some methods will make the transition a little tougher, but it still can be done. Hope everyone finds this information useful.

Calvin "“ Haven't forgotten about your question. I'll get back to you tomorrow evening when I'm back to answering questions again.

Warmest Regards,
James

Hi James,
You have touched on a point that I have been wondering about. You pointed me to the Zeovit guide that I read through but this really seemed more like a how to guide than a why guide. What I am trying to understand is - what makes Zeovit a better method for achieving an ULNS then say heavy skimming with the use of GAC and GFO reactors? This is how I run my current system and my nitrates and phosphates are very low. I have almost no algae in my tank. I actually think I am still too low nutrient because my coral colors are fairly pale, although my growth is good. I have been increasing my feeding in an attempt to color up my corals better and my GFO reactor has been off for about 5 days and my PO4 is still 0.0.

Thanks for your comments.

 

[CUNAReefer]

Hi James,
You have touched on a point that I have been wondering about. You pointed me to the Zeovit guide that I read through but this really seemed more like a how to guide than a why guide. What I am trying to understand is - what makes Zeovit a better method for achieving an ULNS then say heavy skimming with the use of GAC and GFO reactors? This is how I run my current system and my nitrates and phosphates are very low. I have almost no algae in my tank. I actually think I am still too low nutrient because my coral colors are fairly pale, although my growth is good. I have been increasing my feeding in an attempt to color up my corals better and my GFO reactor has been off for about 5 days and my PO4 is still 0.0.

Thanks for your comments.

Hi Patrick,

Great question. I wont argue that zeo is a superior method. Its an alternative (advanced) method that takes a different approach to nutrient reduction. GFO removes phosphate. Bio Pellets serve as a carbon source for nitrifying bacteria. Zeo media absorbs ammonium and ammonia to prevent the nitrification cycle from starting. Zeo media, combined with several strains of bacteria and a carbon source, is a very effective way to manage nitrate and phosphate. Zeo media also removes other "toxins" from the water column. I wont ever push the zeo method on you, but I am always here to help if you ever decide to take the zeo plunge.

If you are experiencing phosphate levels that to low, you will need to adjust the flow through the reactor as well as your feeding. If your phosphate is still 0.00, you will need to increase your feeding a bit.

Test water, adjust flow, and feed. Test water again, adjust flow, and feed. Test water again... You'll find the perfect balance.

Warmest Regards,
James

 

[ryanrid]

I am converting my brothers tank to zeo in the next few weeks.
I will be using a more traditional zeo approach however unlike James method which has proven results for him and others.

I can put updates on here if ppl are interested.

Tank is approx 600L net and initial plan is 1L of zeolites with 400LPH (100gal i think) flow thru the rx. after the initial change 1.2L of zeolites will be used with flow rate of 500LPH.

 

[cugly]

What would you adjust if theres a light brown film on glass and some corals are light brown
Should I lower flow or increase..green corals are doin great..

 

[CUNAReefer]

What would you adjust if theres a light brown film on glass and some corals are light brown
Should I lower flow or increase..green corals are doin great..

Hi Cugly,

Can you tell me a little more about your water parameters and your dosing. A light brown film on your glass is not a problem and is a sign of a healthy tank.

James