1:1 Macro Shots
- Thread starter Qhoang
- Start date
TitusvileSurfer
New member
Are you touching the glass with your macro lens?
I don't know about the Sony, but my guess is that technique is the issue.
First, get the tank ready - clean the glass and shut off all the pumps and wait a minute for things to become still.
Then, get your camera ready. Use a quality tripod and make sure your lens is perpendicular to the glass. I use a hood on my macro and usually have the hood right up against he glass to be sure I am straight which puts the lens back about 3".
Next, compose the shot. Use the self timer, a remote trigger, mirror lockup, or all of the above to take the shot.
For detailed shots, you need the subject to be still and the camera to be still because the shutter time will likely be pretty long for a decent depth of field. If that is not possible, you can take several pics with different focus using faster shutter times and look into focus stacking techniques.
First, get the tank ready - clean the glass and shut off all the pumps and wait a minute for things to become still.
Then, get your camera ready. Use a quality tripod and make sure your lens is perpendicular to the glass. I use a hood on my macro and usually have the hood right up against he glass to be sure I am straight which puts the lens back about 3".
Next, compose the shot. Use the self timer, a remote trigger, mirror lockup, or all of the above to take the shot.
For detailed shots, you need the subject to be still and the camera to be still because the shutter time will likely be pretty long for a decent depth of field. If that is not possible, you can take several pics with different focus using faster shutter times and look into focus stacking techniques.
I don't usually crop but there is nothing wrong with it.
Cropping won't add any detail to the shot. It is either in focus and sharp or it is not.
That said, a mistake I see often is that people are trying to get too close to their subject and exceed the minimum focusing depth for their lens. Macro lenses are designed to focus very close but they still have limits. If you don't have a macro lens, you are better off moving the camera back, getting the subject in focus, taking the pic, and then cropping it down.
It isn't the cropping that add detail it is making sure that the image that hits the sensor is sharp and well focused.
Cropping won't add any detail to the shot. It is either in focus and sharp or it is not.
That said, a mistake I see often is that people are trying to get too close to their subject and exceed the minimum focusing depth for their lens. Macro lenses are designed to focus very close but they still have limits. If you don't have a macro lens, you are better off moving the camera back, getting the subject in focus, taking the pic, and then cropping it down.
It isn't the cropping that add detail it is making sure that the image that hits the sensor is sharp and well focused.
Reef Bass
colors and textures
Having spent the last two weeks playing with my new dSLR and macro lens, I would emphasize the bit about having the lens perpendicular to the glass. Shooting at an angle other than straight on can introduce sharpness and clarity ruining distortion.
I need a rubber lens rim guard. I keep banging the rim of my lens on the tank. Doh!
I need a rubber lens rim guard. I keep banging the rim of my lens on the tank. Doh!
I would suggest a hood or a UV filter to protect the edge of your lens.
The hood for my macro (Canon 100mm) is a solid cylinder so when I place it up against the glass, not only am I guaranteed to be perpendicular, I also block out any reflections or stray light entering from the room.
I'm not a big fan of rubber lens hoods, but the other option to protect the lens is a UV filter. It is somewhat controversial, but I use one on every one of my lenses to protect the glass from scratches. I'd rather replace a filter than the lens if something hit it.
Since it screws into the end, if you were to bump something with it, it again would be the filter frame and not the lens getting marred up.
My favorite vendor for filters is hvstar.net. Right now I am using Hoya Pro1D UV filters and I am pretty happy with them. Since hvstar is in Hong Kong it does take about 2 weeks for your stuff to arrive, but for the price savings, I'm willing to wait for it to show up.
The hood for my macro (Canon 100mm) is a solid cylinder so when I place it up against the glass, not only am I guaranteed to be perpendicular, I also block out any reflections or stray light entering from the room.
I'm not a big fan of rubber lens hoods, but the other option to protect the lens is a UV filter. It is somewhat controversial, but I use one on every one of my lenses to protect the glass from scratches. I'd rather replace a filter than the lens if something hit it.
Since it screws into the end, if you were to bump something with it, it again would be the filter frame and not the lens getting marred up.
My favorite vendor for filters is hvstar.net. Right now I am using Hoya Pro1D UV filters and I am pretty happy with them. Since hvstar is in Hong Kong it does take about 2 weeks for your stuff to arrive, but for the price savings, I'm willing to wait for it to show up.
Reef Bass
colors and textures
I feel your noob pain friend. I'm pretty much still there myself, working on getting my abilities to come up to my drive / goals. Gradually feelings of success are replacing those of frustration with my equipment (no longer an issue!) and with my ineptitude.
Digital macro reef photography under high color temperatures takes more effort than simply walking around taking pictures with a point and shoot does. However, the results can be stunning. I'm not dismissing or invalidating what can be produced with point and shoots either, just that they're not designed or optimized for this purpose.
Yes, practice until you not only get it right, but feel confident. I look back at some of the shots I took two weeks ago and while I shake my head disapprovingly, the way(s) to improve upon the images that cause my disdain pop right into my head now.
And if I can do you it, you can too!!!
Digital macro reef photography under high color temperatures takes more effort than simply walking around taking pictures with a point and shoot does. However, the results can be stunning. I'm not dismissing or invalidating what can be produced with point and shoots either, just that they're not designed or optimized for this purpose.
Yes, practice until you not only get it right, but feel confident. I look back at some of the shots I took two weeks ago and while I shake my head disapprovingly, the way(s) to improve upon the images that cause my disdain pop right into my head now.
And if I can do you it, you can too!!!
Reef Bass
colors and textures
Thanks for your suggestions hypertech. I agree I need to protect my lens surface. Your tip about the lens hood not only ensuring perpendicularity but eliminating reflections and other unwanted light is good. Normally I would use a uv filter on the end. I hadn't considered it necessary for my tank shots.
Reef Bass
colors and textures
Qhoang, don't forget to avail yourself of the knowledge in this forum and on this site. As you've noticed, there are some excellent photographers who frequent this forum and I have found them to be very friendly, helpful and supportive of the bumbling efforts of noobs (for which I am grateful).
If you are having reflection issues, you can shut off all the other ambient light and put a piece of cardboard above the lens to shield off tank light spillover as well. I don't know the hood design for other brand lenses so they may not be as convenient as the Canon one or they might be exactly the same - not sure. People that do long exposure night shots will also tape over the eye piece to keep light from creeping in. I don't think tank shots have a long enough shutter to make a difference there, but you could try it if you think it might help.
About the UV filter - I don't think digital is sensitive to UV like film was. People argue about whether they are or aren't, but I think the consensus is that if they are it much less significant than it used to be. So, the only real reason to use a UV filter that I am aware if is just as a protective element in front of your first lens element. If you are really careful with your equipment and the environment where it is located, there is no compelling reason to use one and pretty good arguments that they could degrade your image quality.
I haul my stuff all over the place and use it to make some money which means it gets used alot and harder than it would if I were just using it for personal stuff. That's my reason for using them and I have not noticed any quality degradation because of them. I believe my lenses are more capable than my body at this point so when I upgrade to a 50D/5DmII body someday, I may change my opinion of filters.
TitusvileSurfer
New member
I ask because an extension tube only allows the lens to get closer to the coral. So on the shots you have to back up a couple inches, a tube will let you go all the way up to the glass, basically.
