110g build with a twist, starting with fish and coral

cmbspd

New member
<note thread moved from general reef to the newbie section>

I hope you'll find this unusual start interesting, but also help me out. I'm a total newbie to reefing, but have freshwater plant tank experience so I understand the general concepts of aquarium "ecosystems". Anyway, please give me advice...I know that this is a less than optimal way to get into the hobby I bought a unique ~110g used reef setup 7 days ago after several weeks of reading about them and lurking on RC. The kicker is that the tank came with a beautiful adult blue hippo tang that forced me to get my setup working ASAP...he lived in a rubbermaid tub "dungeon" in my basement while this happened:

tangdungeon-1.jpg


I was able to bring some water and liverock from the original owner to help keep him alive for the past week. So, yes I've violated all the RC advice about "take it slow" - but mostly for the tang's sake. As you'll soon see, I've also got corals in my tank on day 1, again not by choice. I definitely won't add any livestock until the tank stabilizes but right now I'm concentrating on keeping everything alive and healthy.

Here is the basic setup
110g tank, custom built for someone else, 51" x 21" interior footprint, 24" depth, pseudo-half hex - there are short 5" panels on each front corner, corner overflow with 1" drain
2x250MH, 14000k w/ 4x54 actinic and moonlight (unknown brand)
Octopus Extreme 200 in basement sump
Sump is 100g rubbermaid with a 20g refugium above it (with Chaetognatha), BlueLine 40 return pump gives ~ 400gph flow
2 150W titanium heaters


The tank is upstairs and is intended to be viewed from two primary directions - the front faces the living room and the left side faces the dining area, which is 2 ft higher. Thus, I'm trying to aquascape a tank that is visually exciting from all viewing angles. The tank's unusual shape gives it an interesting look. Here it is during my freshwater test:

firstfilloftank.jpg


I added some foam/sand/rock backdrops to disguise the overflow and give a sense of verticality to the tank. Unfortunately, the front bottom of the tank leaked so I had to drain it and reseal while the blue tang spent an extra 3 days in the "dungeon". But that gave me time to refine my sump setup a little bit:

sump.jpg


Here it is in progress. Unfortunately the drier ventpipe runs directly across my sump but I'm dealing with limited space. The refugium sits on the shelf to the right. I'm currently feeding the refugium from the return flow using one of those three auxiliary spigots that you see. Alas, I discovered that my return pump isn't giving enough flow to keep up with the skimmer and also run the refugium so tomorrow I'm replumbing to feed the refugium from my drain line.

I have this tang that really needs a home so I'm trying to absolutely minimize any cycling by using cured live rock and as much water from the original tank as possible (only about 60g in the end). I arrange to get my liverock from a local reefer who is taking a "break". Turns out this is a major find. He's super nice with incredibly high quality rock that he sells super cheap - basically doing a favor to get a new reefer started. He'd fragged out most of his corals to friends but these rocks are still covered with polyps, montipora, and many others corals that I've yet to learn. Wow, I don't deserve such nice rocks yet but I'll do my best to keep these corals alive. Thus, I have to do all of my aquascaping in the tank full of water. Oh, and did I mention that I transfered the tang into the tank a day prior to get him out of the dungeon?

tangfirstday.jpg


Here he is going into the tank. He was so freaked out by the "small" gallon ziploc that I didn't even acclimate him. He went straight into the water. Luckily it was all his original tank water that I'd been aerating for the past week so he survived. Regardless, now I'm aquascaping in a full tank with a fish and coral encrusted rocks. I felt so bad whenever a rock fell over...cringing when a coral got squished. But, they'll recover, at least if I can get water parameters under control quickly enough. I found that a snorkle helped a lot! Here is one example of some fantastic polyps:

polyps.jpg


These polyps opened up soon after the picture and look really great. The colors of the corals are really fantastic, but I must admit that most are much samller than I realized. RC photographers clearly use good macro lenses for their corals! Here is the "final" aquascape. I also built a base under the stand to boost the total height of the tank so that it is easily viewed from the dining area (which higher than the rest of the room). I really like the extra height. I'll try to provide a better pic once the water has cleared:

rockscape.jpg


I've built a large outcrop on the left side with an open area hidden behind. The outcrop bridges to the back wall on one side. The center area will be cleaned up before I add ~1" of sand. There is a small island on the right side. What do you think? My goal was to make it visually interesting, with lots of caves for critters, ledges for corals and good water. Give me feedback because I still have to refine it. Also, any tricks for securing these formations better? I don't really have the acrylic rod option because I don't want to remove the rocks from the tank to drill them. One person suggested moving the formations back a little and provide more spaces for corals. I'll tweak the design tomorrow before adding sand.

So where am I now? Its day one and my water quality is worrisome. At least some die off is inevitable but I hope this isn't a portent of things to come:

SG=1.023 (okay but I'm going to increase it this week to ~1.025)
pH=8.0 (probably should be 8.2ish)
alk=2-2.5
NH3=0-.25ppm (not too bad considering..)
NO2=.1ppm
NO3=5-10ppm (wow is my RedSea test kit hard to read...)
PO3=.5ppm
temp=72F (apparently the thermostats on my heaters don't work well)

Isn't that PO3 crazy high for a new tank? I never tested the original tank's water, but all of water I'm adding is RO/DI with basic instant ocean saltmix. Its been less than 12 hours since the majority of the live rock was added so I have no clue how stable any of these readings will be but I will test again this evening.

Now that the tang has a home I can slow down a little. My main focus now is to keep as many of the corals alive as possible. Let me know any advice that you have. My immediate goals are:

1) 20g water changes daily to get the nitrates and phosphates down
2) adding a GFO reactor for the phosphate
3) increasing internal flow rate
4) stabilizing the rock formations - How stable is stable enough?
5) adding a 1" sand bed to the display tank and a 4"DSB to the refugium


Day 2 update


SG=1.024 (evaporation will increase it by the end of the week)
NH3=0-.25ppm (probably 0, which is a good sign!)
NO2=.1ppm
NO3=0ppm (wow is my RedSea test kit hard to read, but I repeated it twice...)
PO4=1ppm
temp=74.5F (should be to my target of 79 by the end of the day, my heaters' thermostats seem to be set 10 degrees too low!)
Ca=480 ppm
Mg=900 ppm (a little, which I've heard is a problem with instant ocean salt)

Okay, I guess that these look pretty good with the exception of the PO4. I bought the two little fishies reactor yesterday and some PHOSaR. I plan to set up the reactor today. I consider this a bandaid fix that will give me time to figure out why the new tank has such high PO4 - leaching from plastics, die off from the original seawater or liverock? I also plan to look into Mg dosing.

Another major development, I've now got adequate flow in the DT. I made a major purchase yesterday and added a vortech mp40w. It is great for flow. I really love watching the water movement patterns with the pump in reef crest (random flow), but the external motor is surprisingly loud for such a premium piece of equipment. The instructions said that it will take a week to settle in and quietdown, but we'll see. I may consider returning it if the noise doesn't disappear. In any event, I now have somewhere around 4000 to 5000gph flow in the tank! But, it also means that I have to be super frugal with any more purchases for a long, long time. It is all DIY for a while!

Today, I replumb the refugium, setup the PO4 reactor, finalize rock placement, and add ~1 inch of sand to the bottom of the tank. I also need to move a couple of the corals that are high up in the tank and haven't opened up yet because I assume they are being shocked by the light.

Reefers - please give me any advice or criticism. Just remember that I didn't go to LFS and buy corals and fish to put in my tank on day 1!
 
I thought that I'd move my plans for stocking the tank over the next year to this thread. I already got some helpful feedback on the "check your fish thread"....My overall goal is a lush and diverse ecosystem that is visually attractive and includes lots of interesting invertebrates. I am not so much motivated by keeping specific taxa (ie being difficult or rare doesn't appeal to me) as by overall aesthetics of the tank and how critters fit into my simulated ecosystem. That said, I do want giant clams so it will be a relatively high flow and high light tank. I will be adding a Ca reactor to my setup - I have it but figuring out how to use it hasn't exactly been a priority! Here are my still rough plans.

Inverts non-coral:
Clean up crew to add in first 2 weeks: Astraea snails (~20), 2 turbo snails, 15 Nerita snails, 14 hermit crabs (8 blue leg, 4 scarlet reef hermit, 2 blue knuckle) - there are a couple of crabs in the rock already
Then I'll add from this list in order about every 1-2 weeks:
2 Brittle stars "“ Ghardaqa brittle star (Fromia ghardaqana) & Red Serpent Star
Cleaner shrimp (1 or 2)
Peppermint shrimp (1 or 2)
1 Pincushion urchin
Fan worms - I really like the look of fan worms, but understand that they are difficult. I may try coco worms instead or in addition
Pistol shrimp as goby symbiont (okay with minimal sand?)
1 interesting mollusk - a chiton (might grow too large?) or abalone
Final addition at 6-12 months if tank is stable: 2 of the smaller Tridacna (T. squamosa and T. crocea)
Although I understand that there are potential problems, I may add an emerald crab. There was bubble algae on my live rock and almost all of it was picked off, but it will likely rear its ugly head at some point.

Please suggest: good tunicates, nudibranchs, sponges, if any. I also need sand shifters for my RDSB and my shallow 1" DT sandbed "“ a small cucumber and brittle stars? How about just a goby and brittlestar for the display tank? One RCer suggested gorgonians, which I think are fantastic, so I'll have to read up on them.

Fish (no more than 44 inches adult size, but fewer would be better):
Current: 1 adult blue tang (~10 inches). My tank came with this fish, which is gorgeous but I feel a little large for my setup. I'd like to keep it, but could be persuaded to trade to LFS. Overall, I think that I'm proposing a fish load that is a little on the high end, especially because of this tang.

I want to add (probably in the order of this list from top to bottom spacing 1-2 weeks per line, beginning 2 to 3 weeks after tank initially stabilizes):
1 Pseudochromis fridmani (3") and 1 Banggai Cardinalfish (3")
1 "œeyecandy" blenny (originally I though bicolor, midas or starry but an RCer suggested a tailspot is better) (6")
1 Watchman Goby for pistol shrimp (6")
2 Ocellaris clownfish (3.5" each) once potential coral hosts established (frogspawn or torch coral?)
3 small, colorful "œschooling" fish that will swim in the open "“carpenter's wrasses (3") or royal gramma "“ any other suggestions besides Chromis, which I don't fancy?
1 large "œeye candy" fish with yellow color and a pointy snout. Hopefully just a bit smaller than the blue tang "“ is there a good butterfly fish compatible with reef inverts such as yellow longnose or copper banded?, or perhaps a yellow tang, or a foxface rabbitfish? After some RC feedback, I'm leaning toward the rabbitfish because I'm leery of keeping a copper banded alive but maybe our understanding of their care will have evolved by the time I get to this part of the list.

Should the watchman goby be the first fish added to help with sand maintenance?

Someday I may add a Mandarin dragonet as I want to have the type of tank that would have the rich invert life needed to sustain it.

Corals:
I'm least sure what I'm doing here, especially when it comes to how corals interact with one another and I don't yet have enough experience for many of these. But I want to plan my fauna so that I don't add some easier coral early on that conflicts with something I'll covet later. I also got a major "kickstart" with my liverock if I can keep many of my current corals alive! I'm looking for a mix of textures, sizes and colors for nice aquascaping rather than very specific show pieces so my list is arranged by "œstyle" not taxa. I envision a relatively high flow tank with lush growth of corals and I have a calcium reactor that I plan to add to my listed setup.

Here is where I most need input
: I want an anemone or an anemone like coral for my clown fish. The options seem to be corals with large tentacles like frogspawn or torches versus a relatively reef safesafe anemone like a green bubble tip. So far I've heard that the corals will sting the fish too much, the corals will be fine, the anemones will sting the corals too much, and the anemones will be fine once they settle in.

Many different "œbackground/mound-forming" corals to color rock "“ different patches of mushroom anemones, Favia & zooanthids, Trachyphyllia brain coral

A few patches of "œmoving corals" that will sway in the current or pulse their tentacles: Xenia & starburst polyps

A couple of plate forming corals that will protrude out from a steep rock wall: Turbinaria & Montipora

Branching corals: Pocillopora? Just something with an Acropora-like look to it
 
The 1st full tank shot, water tight test, is beautiful. anything, except fish, added after that was over kill. jmo.
 
The 1st full tank shot, water tight test, is beautiful. anything, except fish, added after that was over kill. jmo.

Thanks, but I'm a packrat and I've got to have someplace for corals. I also really like the idea of a vertical wall - like you are swimming up to the edge of a reef. I did do a little rearranging today to emphasize the open space in the middle, which got lost in my first attempt. I also added a shallow sandbed too. Its still super cloudy but here is the comparison:

comparison.jpg


I now have my phosban reactor up and running so I hope that will get PO4 under control quickly. Finaly, my girlfriend and I are trying a few frags - there were a few mushroom corals and some sort of branching sps that broke during the liverock installation so we've glued the frags to plugs and will try to grow them into larger specimens. Who knows if it will work but I didn't want to just throw them out or smother them with sand!
 
I know you said you know but I think you need to slow down a little bit. The end result will make you much happier. In addition it will also save you time and a big thing money.
 
Thanks for the suggestion, but to be honest I don't think that I'm starting any faster than normal. The one exception is the tang which came with the tank. I seriously didn't spend any extra $ to get the corals - they came with the $1.50 per lb liverock. I guess that I did spend an extra $5 on those plugs for fragging. I'm approaching this build just like I would if it was a stockless tank in terms of equipment, water chemistry, and my plans to start stocking the tank (excepting what is in there already) once I've got secure water parameters.

Anyway, what would be helpful for me is if you would be specific about how time and money will be saved by going slower. What do you think is going to go wrong with this build? Thanks!


I know you said you know but I think you need to slow down a little bit. The end result will make you much happier. In addition it will also save you time and a big thing money.
 
I'd just leave the tank alone for at least a month and let it completely cycle.. Then add 2 fish and a small cleanup crew.. Then leave it for a while n add some more... I skimmed through ur post as it was kinda long ... The slower u go the better
 
So here is the tank after a little rearranging of the liverock and the addition of a 1" sand layer.

finalrockscape.jpg


We built a little grotto area behind the pillar of rock on the left side. It will make an excellent area for some showy coral that hidden from the front but but visible from either side of the tank. It also has a lot of caves that the hippo tang loves. I'm happy to say that the tang seems to be a lot happier now that he is in the tank with lots of rock. He is still a little nervous around people, but seems healthy.

Here are day 3's parameters:
SG=1.025
pH=8.2 (wow the red sea kit's pH is subtle so I'm not sure here)
alk=around 2 (red sea kit color scale is really lame here)
NH3=0-.25ppm (I assume zero, but again red sea kit doesn't have good contrast)
NO2=.1ppm
NO3=5-10ppm
PO4=.25-.5ppm
Ca=360ppm
Mg=1200ppm (I think yesterdays test was in error)
Temp=76

I definitely need to get a new brand of alk and pH kits with better resolution. The Red Sea ammonia test also has poor contrast but that one won't be so critical after I'm sure the tank is stable.

So one problem that I have is temperature. I've dialed my my two 150W Finnex titanium heaters thermostats to their max (above 90F) but they are still switching off. Yes, I have them horizontal so that that thermocouple shouldn't be receiving excess heat so I guess that I'll just have to switch them out...

Now for the fun stuff. My live came with lots of coral hitchhikers so I thought that I'd post some pictures. Most are really hardy species so that I hope they'll survive the tank startup:

The biggest colony is an easy to care for palyzoa

palyzoa.jpg


and some Xenia (I think...). Although a lot of the polyps look to be damaged:

xenialike.jpg


There are also a couple of really nice zooanthids

zooanthid.jpg


The tower rock in front of our "grotto" area is also encrusted with a variety of corals - montis and some others that I don't recognize, although they are scarred from the move and some fragging by the previous owner. I'm hoping that they grow out into some spectacular shelf formations on this vertical pillar:

towerrock.jpg


The last picture is of a couple toadstools that fell off the rock and are temporally placed next to one of our plugs of some unknown SPS. So far things are going well with this uanticipated quick start of a tank with a fish and coral. I'm fairly certain that if there was going to be a major die-off from the liverock that I'd already be seeing an ammonia spike but I'll definitely keep testing daily.

toadstool.jpg
 
Seven days have gone by since the addition of live rock to the tank. There was minimal nitrogen cycling - never any detectable ammonia and likely only nitrites for the first 3 days (the red sea test kit has really subtle distincitions). Nitrates built up to 25+ ppm so I did a large water change today. I drained the sump (~60g and added 40g of IO saltwater). That brought nitrates down a lot and intend to repeat in 2 days. I was happy that the pre and post water change salinity and pH were identical (at least as well as I could measure!). Current parameters are:

temp: 77.4 (replaced the Finnex heaters that wouldn't heat past 75, so should increase)
SG: 1.0275 (I'm adding an ATO to help keep this down a little)
pH 8.2
NH3: 0
NO2: 0 to 0.05 ppm (probably zero)
NO3: 5-10 ppm
Alk:3.77 meg/l
PO4: 0-.03 ppm
Ca: 350
Mg: 1200 ppm

Notice that the phosphate levels are almost undetectable. It was neat to see how quickly they dropped with the addition of a reactor w/ GFO from a high of 1 ppm only 3 days earlier!

Various algae are starting to cycle through the tank now. Diatoms cover the virgin rocks on the back wall as well as the sand and glass. I'm keeping an eye on the live rock and coral, hoping that they don't get overgrown. The original live rock contained a couple of hermit crabs that are roaming the tank but no snails so I added 5 Astraea yesterday. If nitrates don't start creeping back up then I'll several more later this week to feast on the algae.

This weekend I'm also setting up my quarantine tank, using a sponge filter that is currently in my refugium. I'm going to get either a hardy starter fish (a blenny, a cardinal fish or a Pseudochromis) or a couple of shrimp (peppermint or cleaner shrimp). The tank should be ready for the first additional inhabitants by the time quarantine is done.

The hippo tang is doing well. He is starting to emerge from the rock grotto when I approach the tank and I've seen him eat a little nori, even though most gets torn up and floats away. The corals all still seem healthy except for a few polyps that I fragged off a rock that was too algae covered to put in the tank. They've never opened up so I'll just try moving them to different flow and light locations.

Please let me know your thoughts, but understand that the tank came with a fish and the liverock was encrusted with corals when I bought it - I did not seek out either. Thus, saying that I'm moving too fast isn't helpful, even though you might mean well and it is generally good advice. It just doesn't help in this scenario. Here are a couple of questions in case you've followed this far:

The DSB in my refugium has a lot of litter from the Chaetognatha. Most of it is still living because I see O2 bubbles, but do you think I should be siphoning it up to prevent decay?

Do you anticipate any problems with the corals being overgrown by algae during these early days? So far, the diatoms are appearing only on clean surfaces. I'm guessing that I'll an advantage against green algea, compared to most new setups, in that the tang will eat them. But, like I said, I also want to get a few more snails grazing in the tank.

Do you think that I should add anything to my DSB in the refugium? There wouldn't be much to eat yet, but there isn't much there besides a few bristle worms.
 
Its day 10 since my 110g was setup up using liverock from a local reefer's teardown. Things are progressing rapidly, too rapidly I'm sure many would say. Luckily I skipped the bulk of the nitrogen cycle because of the rock. I never detected any ammonia and likely little NO2 (Red Sea kits have poor resolution). My nitrates built up to something like 25ppm, but two series of water changes have cut that down to 4ppm. That's important because my tank came with a large blue hippo tang and the liverock was already encrusted with a variety of corals that I have a responsibility to keep alive. I'm going to wait a few days before another water change to see if the NO3 is stable or climbs again. I'm now working to establish a better Ca-Alk ratio. My Ca was only around 350ppm while alk was a reasonable 3.8 meq/l. I'm slowly dosing with CaCl and after two days I've increased Ca to almost 400, with no adverse effects. Once I've got these balanced, I'll turn my attention to boosting Mg a little. Its currenly 1200ppm.



I changed out my heaters and now temperature is a decent 78-79F. The finnex company gave me a return authorization so I guess that I'll send their heaters back and hope that they send me something whose thermostat isn't 15 degrees colder than its supposed to be!



Here is a full tank shot



fulltank_1Feb10.jpg




I added a cleanup crew on saturday - ~ 30 snails, 10 hermit crabs and 1 emerald crab. I also added two cleaner shrimp. Wow, are they amazingly cool! They are so interactive. My girlfriend and I also picked out two ocellaris clowns. They are currently in quarantine for the next month so the tank should be well-matured by the time they are ready to be added. The CUC has done a number on the diatoms. I also "discovered" that a lot of what I thought was coralline algae on the rocks was actually a red algae that the snails love to eat.



Okay, so I had a moment of weakness. On sunday I went with the guy who sold me my tank to visit a local coral grower and bought two corals. I couldn't keep my eyes off of this really cool elegance coral and my girlfriend fell in love with a hammer coral. We are pushing the envelope with getting the tank up and running. But a picture says a thousand words:



elegancecoral2.jpg




There is also a great example of what I think is coral warfare on one of my rocks. This little acropora type coral looks like it is keeping an encrusting montipora at bay.



coralfight.jpg




The SPS had several of its branches broken when I setup the tank so they became my first frags. So far they are showing good polyp extension despite the less than perfect water chemistry.



I'm also beginning my first battles with invasives. I sucked the innards out of large bubble algae with a syringe and I have one Aiptasia that is quite the survivor. I knew it was there when I added my liverock so I burned its hole with a blowtorch. But, I guess that I mostly burned the hole next to it because it emerged three days ago. Then I tried to expoxy its hole, but didn't quite get it completely so tonight I tried to stab it with a syringe of boiling water - no luck, its back! I'll keep at it.


BTW, does anyone know what this coral is? It sort of looks like a mini-frogspawn to my untrained eye...



uknowncoralA.jpg
 
BTW, does anyone know what this coral is? It sort of looks like a mini-frogspawn to my untrained eye...



uknowncoralA.jpg
[/QUOTE]

Galaxia. An LPS coral that will work under most lights.

You have started extremely fast. Your best course of action is to enjoy what you have and fine tune your aquascape, water chemistry and current equipment before adding any more livestock (corals or fish) Best of luck to you.
 
3 sets of water changes have brought my nitrates down to under 2ppm according to Salifert. I've also been slowly dosing CaCl over the last 5 days. Overall stability of water is looking good. Temperature and pH are very constant (1 degree and 0.1 change from day to night), but I'm interested to see what happens with nitrates now that I plan to move to biweekly water changes. Hopefully growth of algae in my refugium will suck them up:

Temp 79
SG = 1.026
pH = 8.18
NH3=0 (no longer testing)
NO2=0 (no longer testing)
NO3=2ppm
Ca=400-420
Mg=1275
PO3=0
Alk=3.6meq/l or 10dkh

My alkalinity dropped a little during the CaCl dosing, but is still in a pretty good range. I plan one more dose of CaCl. My setup came with a Ca/CO2 reactor so now that I'm in an acceptable Ca/Alk ratio I plan to set that up soon.

I'm very happy that I have an ATO system running as of today. With the low winter humidity I've been getting somewhere around 5-10g of evaporation a day. All of the inhabitants are doing well. My hippo tang is much more social now - even rubbing up against my hand once during maintenance. I'm starting to learn how to feed corals too. Right now its really basic - just fish and octopus from the local asian grocery.

I also realized that I have a sipunculid snail in my tank! What I had thought was mucus from a battle between corals (Montipora and a Porites looking sps) is actually the snail's mucus net! This is why I wanted to get into the hobby - such incredible diversity. Sadly, I haven't been able to get a good shot yet.

Here are the first fish inhabitants to be added to the tank. Three more weeks of observation, but so far they are very healthy!

clownsinjail.jpg


We are setting up a second QT tank this weekend so that we can stagger fish purchases by every ~ two weeks. We are thinking about a foxface rabbitfish as the next purchase!
 
Just over a month in and everything is going well. The tang is very healthy and eating well. We just moved our first new additions into the tank - two captive raised ocellaris clowns. The larger female gave us a scare when she disappeared into the rockwork for more than 24 hours, but she reappeared this morning. Here is a shot of the tank:

FTS15Feb2010-1.jpg


Water chemistry has really stabilized in the last two weeks. I've got my ATO working and I dosed calcium up to a good level.

waterchemistry.jpg


You can see how temperature stabilized after I ditched my defective heaters. Phosphates plummeted to undetectable levels after the addition of a reactor with PHOSaR and Nitrates are dropping steadily. Initially I performed three large, ~40% water changes to bring NO3 down, but subsequently it has slowly dropped on its own. I don't know if that is due to the RDSB or the chaeto in the refugium (seems most likely).

I've installed the Ca reactor that came with my used setup but I'm only slowly bringing the CO2 bubbles up to level. I don't really need the Ca/alk supplementation yet, but I want to get a feel for the system before I start adding more demanding corals to my tank.

I also added a beautiful one spot foxface to quaratine. It will be an agaonizing four weeks before he gets to join the tank!
 
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