110galreef's -250gallon Deep Dimension In-Wall Reef Build

So what does one need to build a 250g reef tank from scratch....you ask??

:lol2:
 

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Good News and more pics! Sump and tank are all done. will beshipping out today/tomorrow.....meaning will be here before next weekend! :spin1:

Thanks Again to Chirs at Midwest Custom Aquariums :spin3:
 

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Update: I got the top frame of the stand made and level'd this weekend. I have to finish up the legs and bottom frame and then seal it.

I also am running this evening to pick up the Tank & sump form the trucking company hub!:bounce2:

Stay Tuned:eek1:
 
Are you familiar w/ either of these? The thing i like about the Dolphin is the marine grade seal upgrades....plus seem to flow a bit more 4' head and under. Much after that it seems the DART Gold outperforms. But that may lean towards the Dart Gold due to the fact I may put a few enductors on the outputs for increased flow. I know others have done this on the GOLD series of pumps and got definite increases in flow. Even tho not a pressure pump.

For now i am gonna give the vortechs a try. I originally didn't want the cords of the tunze's in the tank. However after some thought, I may not be able to even see them on a 36" deep tank and black background. When the tank gets here I will play w/ the Tunze/vortech option and see what works best.

For now I am going w/ the vortech's.

I have not personally used Vortechs, Tunze, or a CL with a Dart. I was suggesting the Dart over the Dolphin since it draws less wattage and it seems to be the standard for large tanks with CL's. I know years ago CL's were the big thing, then people went to controllable powerheads, but CL's seem to be making a big comeback in the big tanks (200g+) since they move so much water and do it without cluttering up the display. The vortechs are the best choice as far as GPH, controllability and wattage draw. Maybe using a combo of vortech's for wide flow, and tunze for spot flow would be ideal. Also if you didn't want to use several MP40's the new MP60's would be your best bet most likely. I'd like to think that 2 MP60's would give you the wide flow and control you want and need and then maybe two smaller tunze could add some more direct flow to the mix and you could control the tunze with a 7095 controller. Just some food for thought.
 
Ok....Updates & questions

I did make some good progress on the stand...Have to get pics. It is all built. Just needs to be sealed/stained.

Also since I now have the tank, I need ideas for the flow.

Current list of products are:
**Poseiodon PS3 return, pumped thru an OM squirt 2 way, and then enductors on the output.
**up to 3 Vortech MP40's..plan to use only 2.
**CLS via DART GOLD ~4300gph. I attached a simple drawing :hmm2: for a rough idea. Please add some input before I go drilling holes.:fun4:

The two green returns from the CLS would come up from the bottom hidden in/behind the rockwork.
 

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I really want to get water in the tank and see what kind of flow the Vortech's have. This may help me decide on layout.
 
Update:

Well I got the stand stained & sealed. Set the tank on it and water tested the tank for leaks and also checked the amount of deflection in the stand to verify not needing a center support on it. Well it passed. It only had .045" of deflection at the center of the longets run. So just under 1/20" deflection!

Pics coming.......

Drained the tank, placed an order from Savko for the plumbing needs for the CLS, sump returns etc.....

Should be here Tuesday & then can plumb it.

Also did some trial aquascape and think I have decided on a design. Now just seeing if I can get it into the tank the same!:lolspin:
 
Few pics of the stand

I decided to go w/ a 2x8 top frame, 2x6 cross braces & top surface support. I used galvanized hanger clips & nails, as well as screwed 3" SS screws into the cross supports thru the 2x8 frames. However the main load is supported by the hangers. These just add a little structural rigidity. I then mad the legs out of 2x6's on the front & back & 2x4's on the sides. I also used 2x4's for the screw strips. The legs were all glued & screwed together. I chose 2x6's for the front legs oppsed to 2x4's to simply help spread the load on the floor and shorten the free span or the 66" frame. I had plenty of access w/ the 2x6's still.

I chose not to go the traditional route of building a standard base frame for the legs to stand on. One for easier leveling and 2 my concrete foundation floor can handle the load.

I did tie the legs together w/ a bottom frame that I pocket screwed together to firmly hold the legs square and prevent acidental kicking them out!:eek1: They also provide my lower platfom a place to rest. I screwed 2x4's flat across the bottom. This provided a 2" lip to help catch any spilled water that may occur.

I also topped the stand w/ 3/4" plywood and 1/2 styrofoam. All sealed up w/ Kills oil based primer/sealer.
 

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Lots of updates:

Well over the last few weeks...lots of progress! In short, cyclehas begun!
System has been since Weds. I tested Ammonia .25 & Nitrates of 2.5 yesterday!

Lots of pics & details to come on the past work!
 
Final List of equipment thus far:

~ 60g arcylic sump, just 3 baffles
SRO XP 3000E skimmer
feed by Sicce syncra 2.0
Tunze 1073.40 silence return pump ~ 500gph guesing from flow & head loss
Sicce Syncra 4.0 for reactor feed pump ~ 900gph puished thru a 4 way manifold....
Nextreef MR1 reactor for Carbon & GFO
Nextreef SMR1 reactor for Bio Pellets
Eheim Jager 300w heater
Apex Neptune controller, w/ pH, ORP, Temp & salinity probes
~160# BRS Dry Rock. (~ 100# Pukani, ~30# shelf, about 20# Tonga branch, ~ 15# Fiji)
60# Carib Sea Special Floor grade
CLS powered by Reeflow Super Dart Gold & OM 4 way Drum 3
Bubble Magus Triple doser....Dose BRS 2 part & maybe Magnesium

Lighting still up in the air. Have a 2 -250w & 2 54w T-5 aquamedic light for now that will sufice till i start stocking. Also have a Vortech MP40 ES I can add to the system if I need extra flow. However right now the CLS & OM 4 way makes for some crazy flow!
 
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