1200 gallon reef at 9000 feet

real good stuff Steve-teach us how you keep your calc up in such a large tank-that reactor has got to be maxxing out-
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13915386#post13915386 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by porthios


btw, i can post some pics of how the dry boxes work if anyone's interested..


Yes please.....

Steve can you show yours too?.

I'm doing a large tank soon and may use your idea with the Vortech's


Thanks
Mo
 
hope you don't mind steve. here you go..

the overflow. you can see the chambers on either side..

overflow.jpg


the center chamber with the drain/return plumbing..

center-1.jpg


the right dry box. you can either drill the bottom to run power cords through, etc.. or leave them sealed and run the cords out the top..

rightbox.jpg


i believe steve's is the same but his is 60"w vs my 42"..
 
Thanks.... good stuff.

Is it possible to to cut the top of the back wall and silicone a box section to the back of the tank..... ie do what you did, but silicone the dry box and overflow to the back.... it would avoid drilling the base of the tank.

It would work well in my setup, as long nobody forsee's any problems with siliconing the box section to the back of the tank.....

Opinions?.... Jason? ..Steve??

Thanks
Mo
 
Mo, I think the problem is with outside boxes and overflows the vortedh pimps can only handle a certain tickness. My tank is 1 1/4' on the sides. The vortechs won't stick that thick. I drilled a hole in my dry box for a fan to cool the vortechs but I have not installed the fan because the pumps don't run that hot(they have a 5 min off cycle). They are run through a chevaut timer which is set to the on/off period. I do not like drilling the bottom of the tank either. Let me know if you need any more info. Steve Hurlock
 
Mo, I think the problem is with outside boxes and overflows the vortedh pimps can only handle a certain tickness. My tank is 1 1/4' on the sides. The vortechs won't stick that thick. I drilled a hole in my dry box for a fan to cool the vortechs but I have not installed the fan because the pumps don't run that hot(they have a 5 min off cycle). They are run through a chevaut timer which is set to the on/off period. I do not like drilling the bottom of the tank either. Let me know if you need any more info. Steve Hurlock
 
Steve

Is your tank glass or acrylic?

In the dry box, wouldn't there be a lot of pressure from all of the water in the tank, given there is only air inside the box?. Does it have thick walls?. The weirs are full of water, so the pressure is equalised.....

I'm thinking of going acrylic, but the thickness would be too great for Vortech pumps. The other method is the same as yours, but i wouldn't know what thickness of dry box wall I could get away with......

Any pics of the filter room?

This is one amazing tank!!

Thanks
Mo




<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13889947#post13889947 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Hurlock
I have a 300 gal sump in a filter room off the side of the house. I ue a MRC skimmer with 4 becketts. the sump has three chambers, one is cheato (dying back because of the low nutrient with Prodibio and amino acids) the other has live rock and the third chamber is empty with that chamber returning water to the tank. I run an aquamedic Ca reactor (large one) Also I use the felt filter bags (2) as the water enters the sunp for mechanical filtration changed daily or at least every other day. The water running through the sump is only about 3200 gal hour. The flow is generated with a gyre effect with the vortech pumps. Four run on one side while the other is shut off. They alternate at about 5 min intervals. The dry box is iinside the tank as an extension of the overflow The bottom of the dry box is drilled for fan cooling but I have not installed the fans because the pump don't run hot. I have a four level house and the tank is on the second floor. We had to double -up joists 2/12 with a metal beam underneath. the tank. There is a bedroom underneath where my mother-in law stays when she visits. She is concerned about the 6 tons abover her head but I don't sleep there so it doesn't bother me. I'll try to send pictures of the filter room.The tank is really plumned pretty simple for ease of maintenance Steve Hurlock
 
Jason

The top of the center box is lower than that of the weirs?.
Is the water level well below this?..... Where do the weir combs sit and what is the water height?

Thanks
Mo




<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13936779#post13936779 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by porthios
hope you don't mind steve. here you go..

the overflow. you can see the chambers on either side..

overflow.jpg


the center chamber with the drain/return plumbing..

center-1.jpg


the right dry box. you can either drill the bottom to run power cords through, etc.. or leave them sealed and run the cords out the top..

rightbox.jpg


i believe steve's is the same but his is 60"w vs my 42"..
 
here's a pic with the adjustable weir installed at its lowest position. there are no teeth on my overflow. i believe steve had the same setup but ended up having to re-cut the overflow (deeper) to accommodate the crazy amount of flow he's running through his returns.

weir.jpg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13915386#post13915386 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by porthios
.... i'm stoked to get my vortech dry boxes running as well and it should provide for a nice clean installation ...

btw, i can post some pics of how the dry boxes work if anyone's interested..

I'd love to see the dry box pics ... I have a 10' x 3' x 2.5' tank with a full width end weir and I'd love to use Vortech pumps from the weir end ... just hate the TS48 kit which is a never ending source of equipment failure and frustration for the past 3 years.

Tone :)
 
I just discovered this tank and I must say it's my new favorite! The shear size is just overwhelming, you could literally go snorkeling in Steve's tank! not too mention that he is the only reefer that I know of that can actually replicate an authentic Ocean Gyre inside his of living room!! Then there is his livestock, the man obviously has good taste in fish and corals!

Steve be sure to keep updating us, I'd love to see how big some of your corals and fish get in that mamoth system of yours -J
 
Thanks, I got the weir and dry boxes the wrong way round.

What I don't know is how thick the walls of the dry box need to be. In Steve's tank, there must be a heck of a lot of pressure on the walls of the dry box. Isn't there a risk of the dry box collapsing?. I assume Steve's tank is 19mm glass (or is it 30mm acrylic??) and the weir/ dry box is around 10mm glass and covered in acrylic?

Thanks

Mo


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14045642#post14045642 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by porthios
here's a pic with the adjustable weir installed at its lowest position. there are no teeth on my overflow. i believe steve had the same setup but ended up having to re-cut the overflow (deeper) to accommodate the crazy amount of flow he's running through his returns.

weir.jpg
 
Last edited:
The entire tank is 11/4 acrylic with the dry boxes an insert off the built in overflow. The dry box is 3/4" acrylic. The dry box is not a structural support part of the tank. ADHI (built the tank) used euro support braces on the top that only have 2 3" braces accross the top of the tank(metal) that are powder coated to prevent rust. No more light trying to penetrate an acrylic top. I've got some great frags coming from Kev Apsley and more acan colonies coming. The tank is now into its 6 month and I will have Jake update pictures this month. I use the prodibio pro and amino acids and have to say the coral growth and color are better than expected. I have absolutely no algae and feed very heavy Regards, Steve Hurlock
 
Thanks Steve. Any worries with going acrylic; scratching etc.?. I'm just in the process of deciding on 30mm acrylic or 19mm glass on 6ftx8ftx3ft....what do you think?

Please could you show pics of your braces and the light set up?

Thanks
Mo
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14055945#post14055945 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Hurlock
The entire tank is 11/4 acrylic with the dry boxes an insert off the built in overflow. The dry box is 3/4" acrylic. The dry box is not a structural support part of the tank.

What I was thinking was that the weir is usually full of water, in which case the pressure on each side of the weir wall is equalised and the force of the tank water is applied to the external walls of the tank. If the Weir is empty (ie full of air), there is no counter pressure from a volume of water and the force of the body of water is applied to the wall of the weir (or dry box). However, it seems the side walls of the dry boxes extend from the weir wall to the external wall of the tank..... in which case it is effectively braced. So I guess I just answered my own question.......

The braces ( side wall of the dy boxes) add the necessary support to stop it collapsing.

Great thread and tank!..... I can't get over the video on Youtube..... seen it a thousand times. Is there anyway to download it??.....

Thanks
Mo
 
I would have gone glass if I could Tank is on second floor of my house. It was 1250 pounds empty. I had to re-enforce the lower level with metal beams etc. I was guessing the system is about 6 tons now. I have a 550 glass oceanic bow frone in the same room and that weighted 1200 lbs empty. I would always choose glass if I could because of the scratching. There is no one in Denver to build a glass tank in place Hurlock
 
OK, thanks.

I was thinking of switching to acrylic, because of concerns with breakages.... maybe I'll stick with glass??

Mo
 
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