120g in-wall build thread

[rguyler]

Really, you have metal studs? Is that local residential code in your area? We don't use metal in residential structures in my area, at least not normally. We use them in commercial structures though.

I worry about that laminate (at least looks like laminate) floor in your room. If it is laminate it won't likely stand up to much moisture over time.

 

[JDL]

the laminate should be ok. It is just a basement room with cement then the laminate.

minor issue:
There is a bleep bleep pole in this wall

 

[JDL]

so should i just goto the left and patch the part where the pole is at?

 

[turbonegro]

That blows!!! You can probably move that support over.

 

[JeffBoyRD]

That looks like your best option. You appear to have enough room on the left side of the current location, looks like around 2 feet, and you have to move to the left perhaps 16 inches. This would also leave out reworking of the support pole. You would lose easy access to your cable/phone jacks. Also, not sure, but looking at your other pictures, it appears that your power outlets in the viewing room should be about where your cable/phone outlet is. You might have to work around the cable drop if the power comes down the wall from the ceiling area. How long is the wall in the viewing area? My 2 cents anyway.

 

[2turtles]

You have run into a major problem IMO. When you are thinking about moving structural components, you need to do your homework first. Moving the pole to one side or the other changes the stress load on the adjacent span. Plus most support poles like that are set on a foundation pad poured below the floor when the house was being built. Moving A/C and phone wires is one thing but structural components is another. Think before you leap.

 

[JDL]

looks like i'll be moving the tank display to the left. No way i want to move that pole. Depending on how far over, i may have to redo my cord setup as well. Maybe mount it on the wall instead of the stand.

I am hoping the cords for cable and electric are coming into the room to the right of the stand, where the switch is located. Hopefully they dropped them straight down and then ran them over from there near the bottom.

The viewing wall is harder to measure because that room is larger. And my son has his computer in the corner of that wall. I may be moving his setup as well.

I'll know tonight when i get back from TFP (using my 25% coupon for a return pump) and measure where to cut the hole. Hopefully i dont run into electric or any other obstacles. I dont need to worry about the phone/cable jack since i use wireless and dont have a lan phone line.

 

[svynx]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14641617#post14641617 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JDL
the laminate should be ok. It is just a basement room with cement then the laminate.
QUOTE]

Take it from someone who installed laminate for a living. I went to Pergo school and became certified by them. I certainly hope you put a moisture barrier between the concrete and the laminate. I looked back at your pics and it's hard to tell. If you didn't, you will have issues. The ground moisture will penetrate the concrete and leach into the laminate. It's one of those over time problems. Just keep in mind that if you spill water, get to it soon so it doesn't get into the cracks. Secondly, how much of a gap did you put between the lam and the walls? With that much moisture coming from your tank system, that floor is going to move a lot more than in normal conditions.
Having said all this, I will say that it looks good. I'm glad you took your time and undercut your doorway. It's the only way to get that nice looking. So many people who do laminate themselves cut around the door jambs, which IMO, doesn't look good.

 

[JDL]

Take it from someone who installed laminate for a living. I went to Pergo school and became certified by them. I certainly hope you put a moisture barrier between the concrete and the laminate. I looked back at your pics and it's hard to tell. If you didn't, you will have issues. The ground moisture will penetrate the concrete and leach into the laminate. It's one of those over time problems. Just keep in mind that if you spill water, get to it soon so it doesn't get into the cracks. Secondly, how much of a gap did you put between the lam and the walls? With that much moisture coming from your tank system, that floor is going to move a lot more than in normal conditions.
Having said all this, I will say that it looks good. I'm glad you took your time and undercut your doorway. It's the only way to get that nice looking. So many people who do laminate themselves cut around the door jambs, which IMO, doesn't look good. [/B]

i was going to just leave the floor concrete, but figured it needed something and found this laminate and thought it looked good. It also looked easy to install which it was. There is no glue on the bottom of this laminant, they connect together with overlays.

nope i didnt put any type of barrier. That room previously just had carpet in it with no barrier or padding, so i just removed it and placed the laminant. The carpet was also just laid on the floor, not put on with strips or anything.

I jammed it under the border tight, then put the quarter round border on to fill the gap.

I also bought a dehumidifier to help with any moisture issues.

I could take my losses and redo the floor if necessary since the tank isnt up yet?????

 

[svynx]

Since you didn't leave a gap, I'd say take it up and start over (sucks I know). Laminate expands and shrinks easily 1/4" to 1/2", which means if it doesn't have anywhere to go, it goes up and you will have a row or two that actually come off the ground. The worst I've seen was about 2" up. That and the creaking you get from the laminate rubbing the wood in the walls. Usually when I install it, I leave about 1/4" gap between the laminate and the wall. In your situation I'd leave about 3/8". One option you have is to take the baseboard off and get a saw that can cut along the edge. Idealy I'd say 3/8", but 1/4" would probably be ok if you couldn't go any bigger.
For the moisture barrier, use a sheet of plastic. If you can't find one big enough to cover the area (which includes about 2 inches up the walls...gets covered by the baseboard) then use two and tape them together with packing tape. After that comes the padding, and then finally the laminate. Since you will be using a dehumidifier, the barrier might not be as nessessary as I'm making it sound. I'm just trying to make things work in the long term plan.
The reason the carpet had no barrier was because the moisture can go through the carpet, whereas the laminate will just soak it up and expand/break down/discolor...

 

[JDL]

I just remembered, the flooring is vinyl. Does that make a difference?


Floor

 

[svynx]

LOL. In the years of installing floors, I've never seen that before. I'd have to actually look at it to make an educated suggestion on what to do. I read over the site you posted, and searched for more info. As far as i can tell, you shouldn't have any problems with your installation. I can't say anything for the quality of the flooring, but I can say that it seems like a good choice for your application. IMO, you have one less thing to worry about now. Hope your wall/poll issue is as easily fixed as this one was.
Joel

 

[JDL]

yeah i was getting worried. I knew i picked this floor for a reason:

Easy GripStripâ"žÂ¢ installation â€"œ
Lays directly over your old floor;
no floor prep or messy glue needed!
Looks and feels like real wood… feel the knots!
Completely waterproof.
Perfect in high moisture areas… basements, kitchens, and bathrooms.
Warm comfort and quiet under foot.
Install an entire floor cleanly, easily in just a few hours.
25 year residential warranty.


I think i was going to install laminant then saw this floor instead.

 

[NCNBilly]

What's under the floor?

 

[JDL]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14644864#post14644864 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NCNBilly
What's under the floor?

concrete
surprisingly it isnt cold walking on the floor.

 

[JDL]

new hole cut to the left. Wiring was done correctly by previous owner, down from the light switch and then over, not randomly in the middle of the wall.

still have plenty of room on the side of the tank

one issue, now the viewing wall is not centered, and son is going to be kicked out of his computer area

new toy, eheim 1262 for $137 out the door. Dog likes TFP smells.

 

[JDL]

I can safely just cut the metal studs?
not sure how to build my frame/molding in the hole?

any suggestions?

 

[JeffBoyRD]

I am no expert, even less so with metal studs. However, my .02: On the tank side, I would cut the hole all the way to the floor and build a wooden frame to go inside and support the current drywall as well as the replacement piece you may/may not put to cover up the lower half of the hole. You would also frame up the hole you want to go through to the other room for viewing the tank. That would give you a solid surface for your ledge/shelf as well as to trim around it on the viewing side. This would also give support to the drywall around the hole and frame. After framing out you could use your keyhole saw and cut out the viewing side drywall and use the framing as your guide. If width of wood is a problem with framing then installing, perhaps 2x3s could be used. I would build it on the floor and slide it up into the hole in the drywall on the tank side.
Hopefully that makes sense. What do others think?

 

[Elysia]

{Sorry for the totally unhelpful comment, here, but its nice to see someone else has a pooch who sniffs out things from TFP. Our four dogs go crazy trying to get into the bags whenever I come home, even if I have only bought fish stuff.}

 

[JDL]

I took my dog to TFP once... and only once, kids forced me.

he went to the bathroom on a bottle of something on the lower shelves near the dog crates. He tried to mark everything, i pity the person that picked up the bottle he marked.