tangtang clown
New member
RG, how loud/quiet is your Blankfin?
125 build return plumbing question
- Thread starter tangtang clown
- Start date
tanked3333
New member
plumbing
plumbing
I personally run a mag 18 on a 125 set-up with the standard
all-glass 3/4 inch returns x 2.. I also tee off and run a chiller and
uv from that pump also..I do have to restrict it a little, but only b/c
of micobubbbles, not b/c of the 1" drains. I know the mag 18 is
big and would rather have the 12, but the price was right.
I would think a 12 would run your set-up great with just 3/4 inch
return plumbing .
plumbing
I personally run a mag 18 on a 125 set-up with the standard
all-glass 3/4 inch returns x 2.. I also tee off and run a chiller and
uv from that pump also..I do have to restrict it a little, but only b/c
of micobubbbles, not b/c of the 1" drains. I know the mag 18 is
big and would rather have the 12, but the price was right.
I would think a 12 would run your set-up great with just 3/4 inch
return plumbing .
tangtang clown
New member
Thanks tank. I will run my MAG 12 externally plumbed through my sump using a bulkhead. Two 3/4" return lines with loc line should be fine. I plugged the MAG 12, I am currently using on my 75, into a KIL A WATT last night and it is only drawing 57watts. That doesn't seem too bad.
Tank, I see you have the extreme 200 also, what wheel are you using?
Where is the best place to drill the reutrn holes in the back of my tank? I assume as high as possible so the siphon will break early when I turn off the return? I am getting excited about having this tank up and running, but I still have quite a bit left to to.
Thanks guys.
Tank, I see you have the extreme 200 also, what wheel are you using?
Where is the best place to drill the reutrn holes in the back of my tank? I assume as high as possible so the siphon will break early when I turn off the return? I am getting excited about having this tank up and running, but I still have quite a bit left to to.
Thanks guys.
rguyler
New member
Well, like I said, I find it to be nice and quiet but my sump is in the basement where I don't have to try to live with it. There is a hum but when I'm working down there I don't really notice it. If you covered it with a stand and used flex PVC, it might be very quiet but I hate to speculate.
Tanked, upsizing the plumbing isn't necessarily about flow rate. You are probably right that a MAG12 would run fine on 3/4" pipe. However going larger has some advantages, such as less restriction on the pump, especially with long pipe runs. This creates less back pressure on the pump, which in turn extends the life of the pump by not making it work so hard. It will also likely use less wattage thereby generating less heat. There is a point of diminishing returns where there is no more benefit to going any larger and costs significantly more to plumb. As a rule of thumb, I generally go at least one pipe size larger than the output size and depending on the pump and plumbing, might go even larger.
Tanked, upsizing the plumbing isn't necessarily about flow rate. You are probably right that a MAG12 would run fine on 3/4" pipe. However going larger has some advantages, such as less restriction on the pump, especially with long pipe runs. This creates less back pressure on the pump, which in turn extends the life of the pump by not making it work so hard. It will also likely use less wattage thereby generating less heat. There is a point of diminishing returns where there is no more benefit to going any larger and costs significantly more to plumb. As a rule of thumb, I generally go at least one pipe size larger than the output size and depending on the pump and plumbing, might go even larger.
Tangtang
57W for a Mag12 is very low. Power use of a pump goes down with restriction and reduced flow. Do you have a very small plumbing setup attached? I would test the pump in a bucket to make sure the pump is good. It should draw near its 110W rating.
On the returns...you need to have the just below the surface to prevent too much back siphon and flooding your sump when power is off. Over the top works well for this. Drilled through the back, be sure you dont go too low.
Tanked3333
You can convert the Mag18 to a 12 by replacing the impeller with a Mag12 part.
57W for a Mag12 is very low. Power use of a pump goes down with restriction and reduced flow. Do you have a very small plumbing setup attached? I would test the pump in a bucket to make sure the pump is good. It should draw near its 110W rating.
On the returns...you need to have the just below the surface to prevent too much back siphon and flooding your sump when power is off. Over the top works well for this. Drilled through the back, be sure you dont go too low.
Tanked3333
You can convert the Mag18 to a 12 by replacing the impeller with a Mag12 part.
Last edited:
tangtang clown
New member
By increasing the intake plumbing, do you mean using a coupling on the 3/4" volute? I don't think they make a larger volute for the MAG 12.
SJM, I do have quite a bit of restriction, 3/4" line and it tee's over to the fuge. I am trying to eliminate the "over the back" look, but it would be the safest way. Should I run one 3/4" return line from the sump (with manifold over to fuge, etc..) up and over the back, and then drill 2 3/4" holes for a CL using a seperate MAG12 ?
With the 3/4", you are drastically reducing the flow of the Mag12. If you want to get more from it, you need to increase the diameter. The recommended size is 1.5". 1.25" would work well enough. Run the larger diameter plumbing as far as you can, then split it at the top of the tank.
For a CL pump, I would use a true external pump unless you already have the Mag12 and want to reuse it.
For a CL pump, I would use a true external pump unless you already have the Mag12 and want to reuse it.
tangtang clown
New member
I have an extra MAG12 that I use for water changes, what pump would you recommend?
How would I run 1.25" PVC over the back of my tank, or should I drill and bulkhead?
I plan on going canopy-less So I'm not sure about huge pipe hanging over.
I would run 1.25", up from 0.75" Mag12 outlet up to the back of the tank and in. I would have a tee inline with a feed for the fuge and dripping, may one or two extras. I think the MAG 12 should be plenty. I may try this 1.25" plumbing tonight in freshwater to see how it performs.
How would I run 1.25" PVC over the back of my tank, or should I drill and bulkhead?
I plan on going canopy-less So I'm not sure about huge pipe hanging over.
I would run 1.25", up from 0.75" Mag12 outlet up to the back of the tank and in. I would have a tee inline with a feed for the fuge and dripping, may one or two extras. I think the MAG 12 should be plenty. I may try this 1.25" plumbing tonight in freshwater to see how it performs.
justinm0424
New member
Don't forget you can use check valves. I drilled 5 holes on the bottom of my tank plus 2 for the overflows. I currently use a very large reeflo as a closed loop which takes up 3 of the holes and tonight i'm setting up using a mag12 for my return and a check valve and plumbing it right from the bottom.
I wanted to just use my large reeflo pump as a return but I've cracked my 2nd tank trying to set it up. 1st was because i drilled it too fast and 2nd put a crack in my current sump from the vibrations of the pump being only 1 ft away.
ps I liked the fact that after the elections gun sales went up about 40%
I wanted to just use my large reeflo pump as a return but I've cracked my 2nd tank trying to set it up. 1st was because i drilled it too fast and 2nd put a crack in my current sump from the vibrations of the pump being only 1 ft away.
ps I liked the fact that after the elections gun sales went up about 40%
justinm0424
New member
Really? I've had mine on for over a year and never had a problem. Also my pump is 4500-5000 gph thats pushing it and I can turnoff the pump and unhook it without it leaking ever. I haven't heard of one failing they're a simple design. How can they fail? they only have a rubber stopper that is pushed down from the dropping water. I like having my return water being pushed from the far right corner of the tank and the overflow on the top left so the water cycles.
http://www.marinedepot.com/plumbing_parts_fittings_ball_check_gate_valves-ap.html
towards the bottom. They're clear also so you can see if there's any debris to clean. I use threaded bulkheads so i can plug them incase i need to change my plumbing or if I ever need to clean it.
http://www.marinedepot.com/plumbing_parts_fittings_ball_check_gate_valves-ap.html
towards the bottom. They're clear also so you can see if there's any debris to clean. I use threaded bulkheads so i can plug them incase i need to change my plumbing or if I ever need to clean it.
They can fail easily. All it takes is a piece of anything to get in there and keep it from sealing. The things that can cause one to fail in a SW environment are endless. A tiny snail that keeps it from sealing, accumulation of typical crud on the rubber flap. I have a co worker who has had his house flood numerous times because of a failed check valve.
justinm0424
New member
I'm only worried because my GF on her way home with another check valve so I can finish setting up my return with it.
I can't see a snail being able to prevent it. The pump pushes up a flap once the pump turns off the flap instantly closes because of pressure of the water something would have to be heavier than the flow of the pump to beable to reach the flap. they also have it slanted and lifted to prevent any sand or other debris from making the seal leak. Also the flap is positioned so the pump pushes the seal so it should be constantly clean. Also all the water creates lots of pressure keeping it closed. I've unhooked my pump numerous times and have actually used a rod to push up the flap to drain into a bucket for water changes without a problem. Never even a drip from the valve.
I can't see a snail being able to prevent it. The pump pushes up a flap once the pump turns off the flap instantly closes because of pressure of the water something would have to be heavier than the flow of the pump to beable to reach the flap. they also have it slanted and lifted to prevent any sand or other debris from making the seal leak. Also the flap is positioned so the pump pushes the seal so it should be constantly clean. Also all the water creates lots of pressure keeping it closed. I've unhooked my pump numerous times and have actually used a rod to push up the flap to drain into a bucket for water changes without a problem. Never even a drip from the valve.
I've used those check valves and they are good ones. Best bet is to have it as low as possible, right above the pump and vertical. Still, if something does get in there and the flap doesn't seal, how much water would drain back out of the display? How big a problem would that be?
rguyler
New member
There are numerous posts on RC about failed check valves. Can't say which types or any other detail. I've never justified the expense when I can just drill a siphon break in the return line just below the surface. Actually, I drill more than one just for redundancy and usually during regular maintenance clean the holes out. My returns are also near the surface as well just in case.
tangtang clown
New member
What size bulkheads do I need for the CL? What happens to CL during power outage? I may order another glass hole kit, but I'm not sure what size. I will order the bulkheads at the same time.
justinm0424
New member
Power outtages dont affect the CL it just turns off. The system is a closed system so there's no worry about water overflowing or anything. Just makesure its setup so you can remove the pump easily for cleaning or replacement. Also makesure your intake has a screen so fish dont get sucked in.
I would use large bulkheads so if you ever want to upgrade the pump you could easily. Also use threaded bulkheads so you can change the plumbing if needed. flex pvc is also a must because of pump vibration.
I would use large bulkheads so if you ever want to upgrade the pump you could easily. Also use threaded bulkheads so you can change the plumbing if needed. flex pvc is also a must because of pump vibration.
