125 build return plumbing question

Definitely agree about the check valves, why use a system with that can fail, when a cheaper failsafe system exists?
 
BTW, I'm not a "CL Guy". I prefer powerheads. More flow for less watts and no holes in the tank.
 
I think you just changed my mind sjm, I may drill 2 holes for my sump return, most likely 3/4" or 1" pipe with 0.5" or 0.75" loc line. I will drill as close to the top as popssible. Do you have any recommendations on PH's. I was think about Vortechs, not sure which size.
 
For the returns, use 3/4" loc-line. 1/2" is too small. For Vortechs, a pair of MP40Ws for work well.
 
Just what I was thinking Scott. I just went and ordered a loc-line return kit with glass hole saw, flare ends, and two 3/4" bulkheads from G-Hs.com for $43 shipped. Now I will start looking at vortechs. I plan on drilling the bulkheads right below the trim of the tank and I want to keep the flare almost on top of the water. This should eliminate the need for check valves while at the same time keep the top of the water agitated. And the Vortechs should keep rest of the water moving nicely.
 
You shouldn't drill too close to the edge. I believe the rule is the diameter of the hole away or something like that. Ask the GH guys how close you can go.
 
The reason most ppl use CL systems is because they can have one pump out of the tank, they putoff very little heat compared to a submersible pump, and they last a lot longer.

for hole size remember that 1 1.5" hole pushes more water than 4 3/4" holes. you can basically fit 4 3/4" pipes inside one 1.5" pipe. Also the larger the better if you want to upgrade.

Not sure how far away from the top you should drill though. I drilled my on the bottom on the corners about an inch from the edges. I would done it closer but I wanted to be able to add a fitting if the flow wasn't just right.
 
Also powerheads for me always get dirty and large external pumps usually stay clean. Cleaning them is a breeze also because all you need to do is unhook them where a powerhead is usually hidden in rocks so they're not noticed. Most tank builds I see now are always a CL system.
 
+1 on the Loc-Lines. There is a most excellent thread here on RC that was going a few months back on making eductors out of a Loc-Line segment. It doubles, triples, quadruples, etc. the effective flow through a single line without requiring additional pump flow. Sounds crazy but true. A perfect (and very easy) mod for CL Loc-Lines.

I also agree with not drilling too close to the edge. Better safe than sorry.
 
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1632025

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15572168#post15572168 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rguyler
+1 on the Loc-Lines. There is a most excellent thread here on RC that was going a few months back on making eductors out of a Loc-Line segment. It doubles, triples, quadruples, etc. the effective flow through a single line without requiring additional pump flow. Sounds crazy but true. A perfect (and very easy) mod for CL Loc-Lines.

I also agree with not drilling too close to the edge. Better safe than sorry.
 
Thanks for link. I will check it out. I am still not 100% sure on a CL. I just ordered the return hole saw, bulkheads, and fittings yesterday, but I can't make my mind up. I think I will focus on making my sump and think it over.
 
Here is my current setup and I am itching to get 125 setup.
So to do a CL I would have at least three holes? One for the intake and at least two for the output side. If I do go with a CL, I would probably only use 3/4" bulkheads.

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!125!
Here is the backside of the 125 where I drilled and installed 1500gph overflow with dual bulkheads. I am thinking about drilling two holes for 3/4" loc-line bulkheads on each side of the overflow box, in between the cross braces on the top and the overflow box, as close to the top as possible. I figured I can manuever the locline to keep floating/flake food from rushing right into the overflow. Does any one see any probs with this?

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