125 inwall REBUILD

V

vipjd39

New member
So the time has finally come for me to rebuild my 125 (72x18x24). Originally this was a seahorse only tank with about 12 seahorses and an assortment of macro. Luckily i was able to pick up a 92 corner and we will be moving all of the seahorses there (that will be a separate build thread!). The 125 tank will now become an sps dominated tank.

I want to do this right and i want to do it once and that is why I have come to reefcentral for the many knowledgeable members. I have been spending my somewhat hard earned money on equipment for the past several months.

List of equipment acquired
2 Vortech MP40w
Octopus TDNW-300 Needlewheel Recirculating Skimmer
3 Luminarc 400 full size
3 galaxy ballasts

Since I previously set this tank up I still have the lifereef sump, iwaki 70rlt, icecap 54w t5 retro kit that I will be using for actinic supplementation.

There is still a pretty hefty list of equipment to get...I plan on getting a zeo reactor just not sure which one yet. I can't decide if i want to try the balling method for calcium as well. i also need to find an adequate controller, but dont want to go overboard

Over the next few days i will begin posting pics of the current setup and asking questions/advice on converting the setup.

My first question relates to plugging everything in. I only have 2 outlets in the fish room for a total of 4 plugs. Currently I use surge protectors to plug everything in, but since i will be adding quite a bit of wattage I am slight concerned...especially with the 3 400w halides. Do I need to have an electrician come out and do some rewiring or will i be fine? Or is there something i buy to safeguard myself. I want a controlller just not sure which one and if it will be able to handle the load and if it will i want to make sure plugging it in to the wall wont burn the house down.

Any help over the next few weeks will be greatly appreciated!
 
FWIW with the last 2 tanks I have had I've had an electrician come out and put a couple of dedicated 20 amp outlets in. I'm kind of an overkill guy though. Hopefully some others will chime in. Also I've heard lately about GFIC's that reset themselves. Those would probably be a good idea (if they work as advertised) especially with the electronic ballasts. I never had problems with GFIC's tripping when the power went off until I got electronic ballasts.
What are you planning on using the Iwaki for? If it's not for a pressure rated application ( like penductors/eductors on a CL, a beckett skimmer or a sump in the basement ) you could probably use a pump that uses less wattage, creates less heat and does the same job.
Sounds like you're off to a great start.
Chris
 
Fishdoc, thank you very much for the information. Do you have any recommendations on which electrician? Out of curiosity, roughly what does that run. I am going to look into the new GFICs and try and do some research concerning them. I have been using the iwaki for return to my system, but only bucause it came with a sump purchase I made. I've been looking for another pump, just not sure which one to go to. What do you suggest? Also, is anyone using a controller? Thoughts...
 
I have also had problems with the GFIC tripping when using a electronic MH ballast. I even shipped it back to IceCap for them to check it out. The tech told me that it is a very common problem with the electronic ballast. Something to do with harmonics etc.
If you are having an electrician add dedicated circuits to your house you might want to think about one for lighting and a second for everything else.
 
I would have one with the GFIC and the other just a regular outlet. I would use the regular outlet for lights, and the other for anything that would be in the water.
 
ahh, ok. Thank you for the clarification. Im going to contact an electrician tomorrow to see how much this is going to hurt me, lol.

Any suggestions on return pumps? Id prefer to run external due to heat transfer, but have thought about the red dragon, just not sure if i wanna drop that much. What is everyone's thoughts.
 
I had an electrician install an extra outlet that's not on a GFIC for my lights so yes I would say 2 is a good idea. The problem you will run into there is where do you put the controller. If I remember correctly 2 dedicated outlets cost me around $300.
As far as pumps the Iwaki models that aren't pressure rated are exellent. The panworld/blueline pumps are also nice pumps and if you want one a little cheaper the good old GenXpcx40 is a good inexpensive pump......occasionally one will be a lemon but should reveal itself shortly after purchase.

Chris
 
thanks fishdoc. Do you run a controller? Do I even really need one. I am going the minimalist way so maybe some timers and monitors will work for me? Also, is the 70rlt a pressure rated pump? i thought only the rlxt were pressure rated. I also trying to keep the wattage as low as I can go (look at the lighting, lol) well with everything except the lighting.
 
The rlt models are pressure rated and the rlxt models have a lower head rating and are considered more for flow. I have a controller (an AC III) but I still haven't hooked it up:rolleyes:
Timers work just fine for most things. Where you might get into running a controller is if you want to stir a kalk rector for 2 minutes, turn powerheads off and on.....things that have multiple on/off times a day. You will also want a controller if you use a chiller (but that usually comes with it) and most people agree having one for heaters is best but lots of people don't.
Chris
 
ahhhh, i see now. I am going to look into picking up a rlxt model (im gonna make sure I don't have one already!). I think im going to pick up a controller just in case for any future add ons.

After much research I believe I am going to avoid the zeo reactor. I will prob pick up the deltec fr509 and run GFO and some carbon. Still gotta decide on calcium reactor or balling method though...
 
I love my Aquacontroller Jr. It controls everything on my tank.
I'll never have another tank without one.
If you don't want to buy one at least purchase a Ranco dual stage controller for your heaters and cooling fans. Both of my major tank crashes were created by a heater sticking on. Most of our inhabitants don't do too well when the water reaches 95 degrees.
 
Everything.
Lights, heating, cooling, powerheads for circulation, ATO, return pump. It also allows me to monitor temp and pH. The temp in my tank stays with in four tenths of a degree...
I have my ATO tied into the pH, I use kalkwasser, and when the pH drops below 8.2 it comes on, when it goes above 8.4 it shuts off.
My tank has never been more stable.
They are impressive.
I also travel about 30 weeks a year. I use a program called "Log me in" so when I am on the road I can check my tank and change anything that is an issue.
It's perfect for my needs.
 
I will be either running a calc reactor or the balling method. will I need to also have a kalk reactor to keep parameters in check?
 
From what iv'e read the balling method is more expensive that other methods.
Are there advantages to using that method?
 
Tha balling method is dirt cheap if you make your own solutions
....it's basically 2 part (3 part) with a Euro name. I think one or two other solutions are added but they are minor from what I remember.

Here is the homemade 2 part recipe:

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/april2004/chem.htm

One caveat though....it's harder to get the Ca++ part now:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1271282&perpage=25&pagenumber=1

FWIW I use 2 part and dose it with a LitermeterIII. I also dose kalk with topup. Peristaltic pumps that are just as effective can be had for much cheaper:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1386225

Ca++ reactors also work very well. It really boils down to which one you are more comfortable with.

hth, Chris
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13336902#post13336902 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by vipjd39
What do you feel is the most consistent method/
Click to expand...

They both are....six one, half dozen the other. You will find people that claim one is better than the other but in reality they both work well. If you use a dosing pump with 2 part it's every bit as consistent as a Ca++ reactor.
 
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