$15 PVC Overflow

if you read i belive dursos website he tells you how to fix that. I think it was a couple of things that can cuase it the one I rem was if your drain is to deep in your sump. It should be just below the surface of the water.
 
My drain is actually above the water. Should be an easy fix to take care of that. I have it plumbed with 1.25 pvc with a 90 degree elbow about 6 inches above the water line. I can simply put a piece on that takes it just below the water line like was suggested. As for pictures it is exactly as the original diagram on the initial posting for this thread. It is just spread out over the back of the tank instead of folded. I have one intake on one side of the tank and one on the other.
 
well that would not bethe cause then I suggest you check out dursos site. or do a search for "surgeing standpipe overflow"
 
It sounds like you need something to break the siphon lower down the pipe so it doesn't suck air into the part that matters. Maybe a open pipe sticking up right before the final plunge?
 
If you look at my pic for the idea there is an open 3/4 in the t at the end. This can be capped then vented with an air valve.
 
fixed it I think

fixed it I think

I think I got it fixed. I drill two 3/32" holes in the cap and put the drain into the sump about an inch or so. Hasn't "flushed" on me yet and appears to be stable. I'll let you know in the morning. I'm still limited in flow to about 180 gph because of the pump I'm using. Plan on upgrading sometime very soon. I'm a little concerned about the amount of water volumn that this can support because I'd like to get about 700 gph out of this. Does anyone have any info on this?

thanks
 
my original design handled a cap-1800 with no problems

the cap was 3' under the tank pumping back in the tank with 3/4" pvc
 
moeandicy said:
Tboned you mentioned a ball valve in one of your earlier posts. Where exactly did you put this and where did you get them?


lowes
BVP15.jpg

and I put one on the overflow and one on the return

the overflow one was so that I could pime the siphon with no problem and so that I could shut it off in mid overflow so that I could clean the stuff without fear of any water driping all over the place

the one on the return was to control the flow into the tank just incase my pump was to powerful for the overflow
 
It's still working with no problems. Hasn't lost syphon once since I drilled the holes in the cap. It's VERY VERY quiet too.
 
tboned;

144 replies and 3000 views.

pretty darn good ;-)

Mine is still working GREAT!! I'm thinking about going with a full sump though instead of like I have.

Thanks again
Rockker
 
well my pump is totally inadequate for the job but I'm getting about 180 gph. that's all my little pump will handle. I'm planning on getting a quiet one 4000 later this week in the hopes of getting somewhere around 700 gph.
 
So if I use 1 1/4" PVC I should get between 1500-1800 gph, with a double setup, correct? Anyone?
 
One other benefit that I've found is that it's really easy to tell when you need to add water due to evaporation. Prior to this I had to just guess. Now the water level in the tank remains constant and only the volumn of water in the sump fluctuates. I just made a mark on the outside of my sump (low water mark). When the water gets down that low it's time to add water. Much better for dummies like me :)
 
OK. New pump output at a 4' head is roughly 1100 gph. This overflow built as outlined above cannot handle it. It is overwhelmed in seconds. I am going to have to restrict the pump output or somehow add at least a third overflow if not a fourth. I'm getting a ball valve tomorrow to restrict the flow and see what happens from there.
 
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