150 Gallon SPS/Mixed Build Thread

that is very over egineered and making it alot harder on yourself :) i used the design from the DIY forum and it worked great on my 125 and much much simplerer to do with out special tools. and as for diagnal pieces if you skin it with 3/4 inch plywood that will keep it from moving side to side. and instead of finishing it in veneer just get some cabinet grade plywood and kill 2 birds with one stone. i wish i would of done that with the stand i'm working on but it already had the plywood and i wanted wood grain so skinning it with 1/4" birch over the plywood and it sucks :)
 
Well, part of this is the fun, and learning of the whole thing. :) I may decide to go away from the puzzle joints, But I will have wood supporting wood... not screws holding the weight.

I am considering changing out the 4 center posts to 2x4's... or at least 2 2x4's.


I am back to the decision making of true in wall 1 viewing panel, or in front of wall.... So, that may dictacte changes.
 
i don't have screws holding mine up, its wood on wood. only thing i would change if i did mine again from scratch would be how i skinned it and think it through a little more and not be in a hurry like i was :) atleast your taking your time and doing it right
 
I have like a month of rocks curing in tubs and coming to life. No need for it to be set up before then.

but, when it IS set up, i will be curing the rocks in it.. :)
 
Ok, so the thread is titled wrong.

it is a 185 build :)

the rock has been cycling in separate tanks, with a bunch of rubble from Premium Aquatics.

The stand is being built this weekend... here are some pics of my progress. Made a few changes from my original drafted plans.
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Didn't use a table saw for any of it, or a miter :)

all Skill saw, a good level, and my carpenter's square.


i overcut the 4x4 puzzle joint slightly- but since it will be hidden under vaneer, dont' think it matters. If they were on show, I would have gotten more pretty wood too...
 
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note.. cutting 4x4's straight is a pain in the rear to get right when you have to make at least 2 cuts by hand.

#$$%#%#@#$@!#%



Now, the real pain is shimming the stand, which is on VERY uneven basement ground. (my project tonight) the raise on one corner is at least 1"... maybe 1.25" (yuck) I built the stand level in case i move it down the road, and am shimming it in 8 places on the floor (under each leg).


Since I slightly overbuilt the struts.. i figure that eight (well 7) 2x2 or 2x4 shims should do.
 
I am finally ona break- which means I have a bit more time to do the tank (and tile and remodel my bathroom)
I ordered the Novus 3 part system, and rather than paying 35 bucks for a buffer drill bit attachment there- picked one up at autozone for $6. :)


I will be buffing the tank next week- it is getting started on dry plumbing today .. hopefully I will use solvent and Teflon early next week :)

I will post some picture updates soon...
 
ok, here are some images..

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the oceans motions getting plumbed with 45s, flex pvc, valves, and unions galore

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a rough layout of the sump area... still a few more things to add, like the refugium, qt, other reactors, etc.
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before I glue anything I have to finish the stand, and put the 3/4 foam under the tank- and that will be either a ply wood finish that helps diagonal support- or some cross braces to make nice triangles. :)

spaflex pvc is giving me a little wiggle room on the plumbing.



I also may slightly put the edge of the sump under the tank.. overlapping by 6" or so... mainly for ease with the drains.
 
Looking good. Thanks for updating with pics. What size spaflex is that going into your return pump? Looks like 2". If so, where did you get it? I'm looking for a few feet to put between my sump and return pump.

--AJ
 
The spaflex is 2" I got it at... Home depot- I think... might have been Lowes... I have been by so many stores doing this and the home renovation I can't always keep track :)

the 1" flex was actually pretty cheap there- I think $2.40 a foot I want to say the 2" flex was around $4.50 a foot.... I may be wrong though- You also have to use a different sealer on the flex than standard PVC. I found I needed a heat gun to loosen the 2" up- it is much stiffer than it looks.

I love it because you don't have to be 100% exact with your fittings - put in 6-12" of that and it makes up for it. I also see it as insurance- it removes a lot of the strain/ torque that can be put on the sides of your tank and pumps from being bumped accidentally-

That is actually the closed loop. The return will (for now) be 2 submersible pumps an oceanrunner 2500 and a Mag 7.. down the road I may upgrade to the external route.
 
by the way- check 3/4" bulkhead sizes before you order. I put a large order in and my 3/4" had a shank that needed a 1" hole size- they just had a "built in" reducer fitting to put them down to 3/4" Luckily AE had what I needed today-

and some really nice looking Juivinal Nasos..... must .. not.. loose.. focus...
 
well, I water tested it tonight, and found a few leaks ha ha.. needed some more Teflon on the joints..


I am glad they sprung up. basically they helped me indirectly find another weakness in my system.


When I was removing the oceans motions and the pump to re-plumb the leaks- I had a bulkhead pop it's threads under pretty normal torque... (at least as would be in my system) if the tank was full, I would have had 180 gallons of water on the floor. I think it is an issue of some really cheap looking 1" bulkheads- where the nut was thinner than some older ones I have.... those I threw away..

I have a load of 1" bulkheads from a collection of online stores.. can't really trace what is from where now.. I am planning on still using my normal grade bulkheads on the overflow where a popped bulkhead during maintenance isn't an issue.. But am placing an order for some schedule 80's tomorrow for the 4 1" holes in the tank, and possibly a 2" as well (it seems a bit more sturdy though)

One quick question, does anyone know off hand if a 1" schedule 80 has the same threads as a 1" schedule 40? (aka, will my old plumbing still work) Google was not turning the thread question up.

so yea, this is an extra cost I wasn't wanting to do.. but I am really not willing to chance the entire tank over $50-$60 in case the medium grades go the way that the cheap looking 1" went


With that said I will have some extra bulkheads if anyone wants to work a trade or anything.. :) the ones I don't' trust for normal stuff have been tossed.

I should also note, the bulkheads in question were not the ones I just bought from AE. those are for overflow use... and won't have an oceans motions hanging off of it. :)
 
I figured out the weak bulkheads were glass holes ones.. hmmm .. (they do have excellent customer service and glass holes saws though) still not going to keep schedule 40 on beneath the water line.
 
OK, last plumbing parts are coming in the mail today. Tank is mostly polished- there are mild scratches left- but I am pretty happy with it now.

QUESTION-

For my actinics, should I use my VHO icecap 440 ballast to drive 2 VHOS, or should I switch over overdrive 2 T5s I can't decide.


Also, in reading up on refugiums aimed at pod production.... I think it is funny the number (50% +) of people I have seen that specifically put predators in them. Silly Rabbit, Refugiums are for pods!
 
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