150 Redux

Jeff, I don't know what happened to O2, but they were his first stonies.

Well its Sunday and all the normal stuff is done.

The water tests for the 65 are done and the #s are:
Ca 480
Alk 3.7 meq/l 10.4Dkh
Mg 1350

Last Sunday the #s were.
Ca 450
Alk 3.4 meq/l 9.5Dkh
Mg 1350

I added a tsp of baking soda last week to raise the Alk and had to add 2.8 tsp today.

I'm thinking its time to mix up a new batch of 2 part there has been a lot of precipitation in the Alk part and even with shaking the jug it doesn't seen to be staying in solution and is no longer balanced.

I might have to pose the question on the Chemistry forum.
 
I have several hundred bucks burning a hole in my pocket and I can't make up my mind for my next purchase.

OM 4way vs Tunze wave box. If I go with the wave box Ill get some added flow and a controllable sway in the tank, the 4way wont add any flow but may give some sway.

ReefKeeper 2 vs AquaController Jr
 
I got over the slump of not really working on the 150. I had to finish the ruff plumbing and make sure every thing was going to fit before finishing the stand. Next I will completely disassemble the plumbing and remove the tank, sump and prop tank, finish the woodwork and sand and finish with a few coats of polyurethane.

I was on my 2nd 2” ball valve and after a union and few adapters it was still way too long to line up the pump under the return in the overflow. Tired of the Home improvement superstores not having the right plumbing parts and trying to make what they carry fit the application so I decided to go to P & R plumbing supply. They have everything you could want, I told them what I needed to do and the guy went and got all the right parts like it was nothing.

I started from the bottom of the overflow and plumbed the drains and hung a supply pipe so I could line up the pump. All the drain and supply plumbing is 1 1/2” PVC.
Drains-1.jpg


The main drain will be fed from a 2” Durso standpipe and the drain for the prop tank will be fed by a straight pipe with a 2” strainer. This should keep the water level in the overflow box stable and I won’t have to try to balance the flow on 2 Dursos and cram them in the overflow box. I may have to add a gate valve to the prop tank line to control the flow because the overflow on the prop tank has a 1 1/4” Durso and a 1” Drain. They will join at a collector which is just like a 2” Durso stand pipe in reverse, it is fed from the 1 1/2” pipe from the main drain and a1” pipe from the prop tank, the bottom will be about 2” below water level and it will have a hole in the cap to allow the air to escape. It should be as silent as the standpipe.
colector.jpg


Next came the pump, this was easy with the right stuff. I got a 2” true union ball valve and a 2” MPT pipe to connect to the threads on the bulkhead and the Dart. I lined up the pump with the pipe and measured how much I needed to cut down the MPT pipe. I made 2 cuts, put the pump and union ball valve back into position. One more dry fit to check for alignment and then marked the location for the hole that needed to be drilled in the sump to accommodate the 2” bulkhead. I removed the sump drilled the hole and installed the bulkhead. I put the sump back into place; dry fit again to check for final alignment, then glued the pipe to the unions, taped the threads and installed the union ball valve and pump.
Dart.jpg


I cut the parts for the 2” Durso standpipe the 2” strainer and the 1 1/2” supply pipe then checked for fit. The Durso had to be cut down an inch in between the T and 90 to fit because I forgot to get the street 90 and then it needed to be installed backwards to clear the Euro-bracing.
Overflowplumbing.jpg


I guess now that all the plumbing is done Ill have to get going on the rest of the woodwork.
 
hey greg i dont know if i like the reverse durso.i think it is going to give you a problem somehow(i dont know how but i have a bad feeling about it).if i were you i would either cut the durso down to fit under the brace or drill the brace for the durso to fit.what size pipe is the drain and how wide is the brace?
 
Chris,

It will all come out in the water test:)

I can easily cut down the stand pipe and swap it around if need be, or cut the brace. The pipe is 2" and the brace is 3" and Ill only have to cut it back an inch, like I did on the prop tank.
 
yeah if you have too just cut it shorter.make sure when you test it you check it and recheck it multiple times for things like pump failure and power outage.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9344305#post9344305 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ah64av8tor
Rich, I wouldn't think it will make a difference, do you?

Technically, I don't see a reason it won't work. Should be an interesting test.
 
I have been thinking about the reverse Durso and will do the test like it is but will probably cut the brace and shorten the stand pipe some, like I did on the prop tank.
PropDurso.jpg


I have busted my hump to get the hood finished and had a good day in the wood shop. I built a frame for the top to hold the lights from ruff cut ¾” poplar, cut slots for biscuits in the joints, glued it up with Gorilla Glue, clamped it all up square and set it aside to dry. I made the back a week ago from ¾” plywood and the front and side have been done for months now. This thing is huge 48” long X 30” wide X 18 tall. I had to clean out the shop and move everything to the sided to have room to do the final assembly.
Here are some pics of the progress.
Hoodside.jpg

Hoodfront.jpg


After it all set up for an hour or two, I measured the light rack for placement of the bolt holes to hang the light rack. I drilled the holes in the support braces and countersunk them so that the ¼” SS machine screws would sit flush. Next was the test fit of the light rack, Perfect fit!
Hoodlight.jpg

Hoodlightfront.jpg

Hoodlighttop.jpg


I removed the lights and am getting ready to hang the doors and apply a few coats of polyurethane. There is still a good bit of work left to do on the stand, but I’m hoping to have water in it by the end of next month.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9375616#post9375616 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by poknsnok
awesome Greg...awesome light rack and canopy. How heavy is it?
Joe,
Thanks,It is still a 1 man lift but to big to do it comfortably, I'm going to have rollers or slides of some sort to get access to the tank.


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9375934#post9375934 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ReefArtist
That looks great - very nice looking.

Thanks It still has a way to go.

First I would like to thank Bruce (Brucem) and Mike (lookout888) for all the help and great ideas.

The electrician put in 2 20 amp circuits with an outlet on the porch for the chiller, and switch for the can lights in an existing block wall.

We got the old ceiling torn out can lights installed insulation and furring strips installed.

Mike said as long as the ceiling was out that I should install an exhaust fan. I could not resist even though it was not in my budget.

room1.jpg

room2.jpg

room3.jpg

room4.jpg
 
Yesterday we got the drywall hung, I would like to thank Stephen (boydx6) and Nate (natec) for all the help and I hope you are not as soar as I am.

After Stephen and Nate left I decided to start on the Tape and mud. I got all the walls finished but couldn't raise my hands over my head long enough to do any real work on the ceiling, it was 12:30 so I just took a shower and went to bed.

room5.jpg

room6.jpg

room7.jpg

room8.jpg


This morning I was up early for work and the house was a wreck, drywall dust everywhere, I took a pick of last nights progress and headed out to get a sheet of drop cloth before I started sanding.

I didn't get any picks of the dust cloud but will snap one in the morning.
 
I have been so busy with the room, I haven't paid much attention to the 65 this weekend. this afternoon I thought that i saw one of the ocellaris in the RBTA but when i walked up to look all the fish were at the glass wagging their little tails (I had forgotten to feed them this morning).

I just went over to turn off the Actinics and both of the ocellaris are tucked in deep in the anemone......looks like the skunks are out of luck.
 
The work on the room continues. Today I sanded all the joints and added another coat of mud and sanded again, textured the walls and ceiling.

I hope to have it all painted tomorrow. If I have time Ill get the flooring and let it acclimate to the temp and humidity for a few days and install it this weekend, but before I can finish the painting and the electric, Ill have to clean up the giant mess.

room9.jpg

room10.jpg

room11.jpg
 
Rich, The mudding is not as bad as sanding the ceiling.

I hate painting only cause I suck so bad, I don't know why I can do anything but when I put paint on a wall it looks like crap.

Oh well I gotta clean up and prep for paint.
 
Back
Top