thegasman2000
New member
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y60q6U7NjTQ
Now if only I was in the US... I am trying to attach a laser to my printer for etching, well thats and because FREEKING LASER.
180 gallon build: Modular control system, 3D printed equipment, open-source
- Thread starter jrhupp
- Start date
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y60q6U7NjTQ
Now if only I was in the US... I am trying to attach a laser to my printer for etching, well thats and because FREEKING LASER.
CVReefer
Member
I also have been looking into modifying one of my printers to use a Co2 laser for cutting acrylic..... Too many projects though.
kenneth wolfe
New member
For your impeller use simplify 3d for your slicing and set your infill to a mesh, in print settings use layering and remove the outer layer and last top layer to leave the mesh , then work with density of the infill.. just my thought on printing a skimmer wheel, I've made my own for jebao pumps, I use a original prusa , and I have large frame mpcnc, converting my prusa to multiple material,.
I have not tried PETG yet. Mostly I have stuck with ABS. I tried some natural ABS (non-pigmented) for the first time recently and was absolutely amazed at how much stronger the final print seemed.
Thanks!
I will keep this in mind. The idea of mesh wheel was on my mind when I did the original skimmer design. But couldn't justify the effort to model it. Just messing with a "solid" wheel in the slicer never occurred to me. Do have your work posted somewhere to share?
I have been running the pegged impeller design since last November and have been pretty pleased with its performance. There is probably some room for improvement, but it cranks out plenty of nasty foam as is.
kenneth wolfe
New member
thing i love about my printers is while I am testing one part I usualy am printing the revision as im testing the first..My printers are part of my tool box now I use them constantly.. My prusa mk4 is my work horse great, great printer .4mm, davinci pro w .2mm and my mpcnc 39"x39"x"19" work area expandable. all printers inclosed and heated. I use simplify 3d and the prusa slicer. simplify and prusa have new updates for varrible laryer thickness kinda cool. Simplify is the bees knees..
kenneth wolfe
New member
your prints look nice , you could improve some though , think about converting to a boden extruder and a cooling fan change.. Taking the weight off the gantry improves print speed and accuracy quit a bit. my direct drive is similar to yours but i suspect much lighter, might be only main differanc from a origal , you have the good lead screws.. thats a good set up.. a prusa origal bed is 9x9.5 , it has ther capton tape or what ever they call it on it, but I still use the blue tape,, its just easier..theres a ton mods for the prusa's like yours and mine..you can go to prusa's site and get the new revisions, many are worth the time to print.I am waiting on my multi material upgrade from them now, I ordered december last year..I do share my designs.. most of my stuff is industrial , some auto racing , of course my reef tank.
BigDave
Premium Member
I think so. I was using cura and slic3r for months until I ran into an issue that neither would slice well. I tried Simplify3d and within a day I uninstalled all the others. It is expensive, but it does everything. I've had 0 issues with it. Anytime something came out wrong, I would see it's because of a setting I did and not something in the slicer itself.
kenneth wolfe
New member
my thoughts as well, simplify3d is my go to slicer..its so mutch faster than cura..
kenneth wolfe
New member
Open infill done only in simplify buy removing layers , this part has 5 layer densities
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
kenneth wolfe
New member
My mpcnc, older pic, making some changes..Open infill done only in simplify buy removing layers , this part has 5 layer densities
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
kenneth wolfe
New member
My prusa..great printer..I built this enclosure more like furniture for in my home..took a few tries to get 100% , if your a prusa owner you appreciate it..lol
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
Johnsreefer
New member
Looks good!
kenneth wolfe
New member
Im posting threw taptalk, there phone size for me..
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
I have some updates!
First, I have been plugging away on refining and adding features to my main controller, and I am close to sharing the source code and files. I have not implemented the RTC yet. So far, all time keeping relies on NTP with no link to the RTC. Once that is resolved I will post it up.
One of the recent feature adds was an array of leak sensors tied directly to the control. They are not fancy, just 5 VDC on one side and then monitoring the other side for a completed circuit. But they get the trick done. If you want the Eagle file for them it is here: Leak sensor board
Leak sensors:
When the leak sensors are tripped, they trigger an audible alarm (piezo) and fire an email alert. The alarm remains on the whole time the sensor shows a leak state, but the email is on a timer. So, no spam; one alert per half hour period. I also have the email alerts tied to temperature limits, and have plans to tie them pH and water levels. But those are not implemented yet.
Towards that end though, I built a module to monitor pH. I am using a Milwaukee Instruments probe with it (you can see it in the sump pic down a bit in this post) and am quite pleased with the performance thus far. My longer term plan is to build a number of "œsensor" modules along these lines; I am think EC and flow as two useful ones. Anyway, here is the built-up module on scrap of DIN rail:
Here is the topside to the board. I know, not much to it.
Bottom side showing the amp circuit and the voltage inverter:
If you want to make one, you can find all the files below:
SketchUp model
Eagle files
Arduino sketch
Earlier in the year I had a temperature sensor fail. I built a second set off the same design (hoping it was a manufacturing defect as opposed to a design flaw) and have been watching them closely since. I am not entirely certain what exactly the failure was, and the second round is still going strong. But I have observed on the originals and the second version, degradation of the epoxy I used to pot the sensors. I have also observed that the stainless-steel bodies have held up well below water, but the parts that have been exposed to air have corroded. Not bad, but they are ugly. So, I figured a redesign was in order. The new version uses a glass sensor body and is potted in silicone. Both materials proven to hold up well in the aquarium and I can see how good the potting is when building the sensors. I also scored some much higher quality cable to use on these!
Here is a version two temperature sensor:
Some other changes are a redesigned sump layout. I loved the rubble box, but access to where the filter socks were, was killing me. So, it had to go. I have also had some issue with microbubbles in the display since the original setup, which has been motivation enough to redo the sump. But until recently I had been uninspired as to resolve the issue. No more though.
Here is the new sump:
I also took a little time and cleaned up a few things on my control panel. The big change was a disconnect on my DC supply.
Here is the new layout:
For future activities that are hopefully soon to come:
- My ATO module is visible in the control panel layout and I have posted some details on it before. It's at the point where I am ready to actually install and finish testing it, but have not had a long enough stretch at home to feel comfortable doing this. But I think in September I should be good to go for testing.
- I'm also looking at some EC sensor designs. I'm not stoked to shell out for an off the shelf sensor and most of the DIY sensors I see on the net are less than exciting. So, I am looking at a non-contact inductive design. We shall see how far and if I make it anywhere with that.
- I have a 24 VAC power supply design together and parts laying on my work bench to put together a new power supply for my top off valves. It's all stuff I had laying around and a board I quickly printed up. But I am excited none the less.
First, I have been plugging away on refining and adding features to my main controller, and I am close to sharing the source code and files. I have not implemented the RTC yet. So far, all time keeping relies on NTP with no link to the RTC. Once that is resolved I will post it up.
One of the recent feature adds was an array of leak sensors tied directly to the control. They are not fancy, just 5 VDC on one side and then monitoring the other side for a completed circuit. But they get the trick done. If you want the Eagle file for them it is here: Leak sensor board
Leak sensors:
When the leak sensors are tripped, they trigger an audible alarm (piezo) and fire an email alert. The alarm remains on the whole time the sensor shows a leak state, but the email is on a timer. So, no spam; one alert per half hour period. I also have the email alerts tied to temperature limits, and have plans to tie them pH and water levels. But those are not implemented yet.
Towards that end though, I built a module to monitor pH. I am using a Milwaukee Instruments probe with it (you can see it in the sump pic down a bit in this post) and am quite pleased with the performance thus far. My longer term plan is to build a number of "œsensor" modules along these lines; I am think EC and flow as two useful ones. Anyway, here is the built-up module on scrap of DIN rail:
Here is the topside to the board. I know, not much to it.
Bottom side showing the amp circuit and the voltage inverter:
If you want to make one, you can find all the files below:
SketchUp model
Eagle files
Arduino sketch
Earlier in the year I had a temperature sensor fail. I built a second set off the same design (hoping it was a manufacturing defect as opposed to a design flaw) and have been watching them closely since. I am not entirely certain what exactly the failure was, and the second round is still going strong. But I have observed on the originals and the second version, degradation of the epoxy I used to pot the sensors. I have also observed that the stainless-steel bodies have held up well below water, but the parts that have been exposed to air have corroded. Not bad, but they are ugly. So, I figured a redesign was in order. The new version uses a glass sensor body and is potted in silicone. Both materials proven to hold up well in the aquarium and I can see how good the potting is when building the sensors. I also scored some much higher quality cable to use on these!
Here is a version two temperature sensor:
Some other changes are a redesigned sump layout. I loved the rubble box, but access to where the filter socks were, was killing me. So, it had to go. I have also had some issue with microbubbles in the display since the original setup, which has been motivation enough to redo the sump. But until recently I had been uninspired as to resolve the issue. No more though.
Here is the new sump:
I also took a little time and cleaned up a few things on my control panel. The big change was a disconnect on my DC supply.
Here is the new layout:
For future activities that are hopefully soon to come:
- My ATO module is visible in the control panel layout and I have posted some details on it before. It's at the point where I am ready to actually install and finish testing it, but have not had a long enough stretch at home to feel comfortable doing this. But I think in September I should be good to go for testing.
- I'm also looking at some EC sensor designs. I'm not stoked to shell out for an off the shelf sensor and most of the DIY sensors I see on the net are less than exciting. So, I am looking at a non-contact inductive design. We shall see how far and if I make it anywhere with that.
- I have a 24 VAC power supply design together and parts laying on my work bench to put together a new power supply for my top off valves. It's all stuff I had laying around and a board I quickly printed up. But I am excited none the less.
kenneth wolfe
New member
Awesome stuff..
