180 gallon build: Modular control system, 3D printed equipment, open-source

A little progress to share...

I have a functional switch for handling power and communications on my serial network! Its nothing complex; five parts not including the mini pro or RJ45 receptacles. But I am pretty excited to get it operational as it is a key component in my overall control system design.

Here are the files:
Eagle files for schematic and board
SketchUp model of printed parts
Arduino sketch

And here are a few pics of it:
Front on shot. There are eight ports for modules (slaves) and the odd port out is for the main controller or from another switch (master).
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One side...
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and the other.
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After playing with it while getting it up and operational I think it would worth revisiting its design down the road. I don't think anything is a show stopper at the moment, but I have identified few features that would improve the design:

- Right now I include a reset line on the ports. Reset is tied together for all ports and pulling it to ground resets every connected to the switch. I am thinking it may be nice to separate the reset lines and implement a port specific reset function.

- I wish I had added a set of screw terminals to provide DC power to the network. Right now the design has power coming into the switch from the master port and being passed out to the slave ports. This fits with the overall design paradigm. But I worry this may prove to be problematic down the road; I am using CAT5e cable with three conductors for ground and two for +12VDC. It would be nice to have been able to wire the main supply into the network with something heavier gauge.

- There are a few software features that may need to be worked out as I get some devices on the network up and running and talking with the controller. I have a few concerns about long messages and some thoughts on addressing. But these will have to wait until I have a more complex system to test with and are why I am calling the sketch 1.0_beta.

Of other items to note, I selected the main +12VDC supply for the system and it arrived on Saturday. I went with a MeanWell MDR-60-12. For power versus price in a DIN rail mount package it looked like a good choice.
 
Updates and progress have been slow to come. I spent tank time this weekend working on parts for my surge valves; assembling and vapor polishing printed parts. No photos of these for now, as I would like to post the complete valve build at once. So we will just have to wait on that.

The other thing I did over the weekend was clean up a few bugs in my light controller code and validate the performance. I have another thread with the build and files for the controller (here's the link). All links in it are the most current versions, including the code. But I'll throw my test data up here as it seems as good of place as any.

I took a PAR sensor and datalogger and got some measurements from my setup. Treat these as qualitative; they were not made with any rhyme or reason to the sensor placement and there was no controlling for ambient light in the room. I hope to find some time in the near future to measure spectral distribution and light uniformity from the fixtures. But it hasn't happened yet.

In any case here is a diel curve of PPFD from running the lights on Sunday. The x-axis is in minutes from start of logging as I neglected to check to see that the logger clock was set to local time before starting measurements (rookie mistake). In any case it paints a pretty clear picture of how the dimming performs.
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There are two step changes in intensity at the start and end of the curve. At the start, these correspond to the blue LEDs coming on and then the white. At the end its the reverse. These appear to represent the minimum on intensity using the default MarsAqua drivers; using my dimming circuit and the default pot-dimmer I get the same minimum. So no room for improvements there without putting different drivers in the fixture and that is out of scope for now.

Here is the test setup for those that are interest (I didn't hold the logger all day, just for the pic). You can see the sensor in the background sitting on the rock work. Its roughly in the middle of the tank vertically and off center of the LED fixture.
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I don't suppose you also mapped to driver output voltage at the same time? Also which model Mars aqua and how far from the sensor?

Thanks in advance.
 
If anybody is wondering, I am still working on the build but hit a bit of set back. I hope to post more updates soon. But in the meantime, the short of it is that the original tank was deemed "high risk" upon the test fill and was replaced. The new tank got here two days ago and I have been working to get it plumbed in and ready to fill. Filling will have to wait until next weekend though.
 
I don't suppose you also mapped to driver output voltage at the same time? Also which model Mars aqua and how far from the sensor?

Thanks in advance.

I did not map to voltage. I had considered it, but was not setup to do it at the time I did this. And I suppose for me I am not particularly concerned over voltage given what the output light intensity showed over the course of the day.

As to distance, it was maybe 18 inches from the light to the sensor.

These are the 300 Watt fixtures.
 
I did not map to voltage. I had considered it, but was not setup to do it at the time I did this. And I suppose for me I am not particularly concerned over voltage given what the output light intensity showed over the course of the day.

As to distance, it was maybe 18 inches from the light to the sensor.

These are the 300 Watt fixtures.
Unfortunately I don't have a par meter so I've been trying to use data sheets etc to try and get an idea of what the light output is like and from what I can find it seems to increase in a linear manner with the fV across the led.
 
Here is the rock work. The tank will be mostly softies and LPS, and lightly stocked (I travel a lot for work, so I'm going for large water volume, light bio-load and the inherent "stability" that comes with that). I want a minimalist scape that is a bit different, and think this hits it quite well.
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Some updates:

I started filling the tank a few weeks ago. All looked good until I got it all the way full, at which point hundreds of tiny bubbles started appearing in the seams that hold the front panel on. I drained the tank immediately and contacted the manufacture (quite good customer support). They replaced the tank. As of last Thursday I have the new tank and its all plumbed up ready to go. A bit disappointing to have issues with the first tank. But I think all will be OK in the end.

I hope this weekend to begin the filling process again and have the tank starting to cycle by the end of next week. We will see how that goes.

For those interested, when it came time to remove the previous tank I couldn't get the bulkheads loose by hand. So I modeled up and printed a simple wrench. This fits a 1" bulkhead. If you want it, the STL can be downloaded from here: bulkhead wrench

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My AC/DC supply arrived a bit ago and I started to get the control panel all wired up. In the pic below there is just an adapter cable between the 12VDC supply and the master port on the serial switch as I was tested things as I went.

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I have been plugging away on the ball valves but haven't gotten them finished yet. I was originally waiting to post them until they were complete, but I have some time at the moment. So I will go ahead and post what I have.

I posted this a while back, but as refresher here is a pic of the model for the valve.
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Here are the two halves of the ball. One is shown fresh off the printer with the skirt still attached (bottom) and the other has the skirt removed and the "œdrive shaft" (3/8" SS bolt) set in place. Once assembled there is no metal in contact with the water.

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Here is the pair glued up and in the clamps. The halves are solvent welded together using strait acetone.

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Once out of the clamps, they were sanded more or less smooth. Then they were brushed with a light coat of acetone prior to vapor polishing. I vapor polish using a glass container that sets on the hot bed of my printer. It gets a few mills of acetone in the bottom and then I crank up the hot bed to 110C. Once condensate forms near the top of the container in go the parts to be polished. The end product has a glossy smooth and solid surface.

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Here are a pair of the valve bodies fresh off the printer.

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And the same flipped over. These print with a single support up the middle (tube in the center) to support the flange that holds one of the seals in place.

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Here they are with the print support removed.

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There is a place on the top and bottom of the valve where an o-ring sealed shaft goes through the body. The hole for these prints with the grain of the print almost perpendicular to the direction of outward force caused by the o-ring. With printed parts this is a recipe for disaster as the print will want to split along the grain. So I print the hole larger then needed to accommodate the o-ring and print a second piece that inserts in to it and brings the hole to something a little smaller than needed (it will be machined to the correct size later). The insert is printed solid and gets glued in place using a slurry of acetone and ABS. The end result is that the two printed parts are glued together with their grain roughly perpendicular to each other. This makes for a very strong part.

Here are two halves of the body and one of the inserts. On one half the insert is glued in place. The other half is as printed.

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Here are the large drive gears as they are now. They still need a shaft spacer and its associated o-rings attached to them. The one on top in the image shows the top side with a nut pressed in place. The one on the bottom shows the positioning magnet pressed in place. The magnet is over kill for the application but it was the most reasonable option available locally. The valve uses a hall effect sensor to detect a predetermined home position. This means it can tell where the open and closed positions are, and on a power cycle it will always return to the closed position (default).

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I simply have to buy a 3d printer now.. I have wanted one for so long and now, after seeing the levels of craftsmanship you're putting out with it, it's simply a must
 
I'm definitely going to try out that ball valve idea.
Nice Build!

Thanks. I'll put the source files up as soon as I am finished putting them together. I have been through many iterations of the valve (about 18 months of tinkering on the design) and am pretty confident they are good to go. But want to get the final version up and running before sharing the files, just incase there is something missed.
 
I had to make some space on my phone today and caught that I had a couple other progress pics from the valve build.

Here are the assembled balls after sanding.
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Here they are after being brushed with acetone. Once the part gets sanded, if it is not brushed with acetone it won't vapor polish correctly (or at all). Sanding and brushing with solvent alone can provide a pretty decent finish. But its not quite as nice as what you get with a good vapor polishing.
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Here are some smaller parts being vapor polished. The setup is pretty basic, but it gets the job done.
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