Veganbrian
New member
Yes, DI stands for De-ionization. I got the 4 stage from BRS during their black friday sale. Did you make sure to get the Dual line TDS meter? thats the only way to know if your water is reading 0.00 TDS
I'm not sure if anyone's mentioned this, having not read the previous pages, but have you considered using a macroalgae to help consume nutrients in place of the hair algae. I have a 10 gal nano and keep a corner of the tank planted with feather calupera and remove portions as it grows in addition to using RO/DI water and regular water changes. I keep a Sixline wrasse and between his food settling and waste, this keeps the nutrients from becoming a problem.
I think the best advice is to slow down. You have to make changes very slowly. As is often repeated, "nothing good happens fast in this hobby."
You are learning a lot as you go along, but part of the learning process is making mistakes and correcting them. You have made some mistakes setting this up, as we all do, and now it will take some time to get everything straightened back out.
Here is what I would do, for what its worth. I would put a bag of GFO or some other phosphate absorbing media in your HOB, it will be fine there. I would not add any more fish for sure and would probably just hold off adding corals for a while. Once you get your RO unit, I would do a 5g water change every 4 or 5 days for the next three weeks or so. This will help pull the phosphate soaked water out of the tank and you will not be adding phosphates back through your water source as you have been now. Consider feeding your fish no more than every other day and feed them slowly and in small quantities to make sure they are eating it all and it is not settling in the tank and becoming dissolved. Don't try to manually pull the algae off the rocks in the tank, that will just spread it around the tank by releasing spores into the water.
When doing a water change, I would take a single rock out of the tank and apply hydrogen peroxide to the algae spots. Let it sit for three minutes. Then rinse the rock in the old tank water you have taken out during the water change. Once thoroughly rinsed, place the rock back into the tank. Do this with one rock each time you do a water change.
You need to fix the root of the problem, not just the symptons. The root now is likely your water source and possibly overfeeding. You have corrected the former by purchasing an RO unit, excellent. The last is easy to control. If you then stop importing phosphates, it is just a matter of exporting them, which you will do with the GFO and water changes. After that, it will take some time for the algae to starve off and die. To completely turn everything around, this will likely be a multi-month process.