20k bulb tank shots

i kinda doubt the 150w DE version of the radium, is close to the same spectrum as a 250w or 400w SE radium driven on a HQI ballast.

but you are correct that the 250w and 400w SE radium bulbs overdriven on the HQI ballast will appear whiter.

M80 = 250w HQI ballast (obviously data from the SE bulb, since they dont make DE radiums in 250w......unless this is something only available in europe, ive never seen a 250w DE version sold)

just b/c its the same manufacturer, doesnt mean both the DE and SE bulbs will have close to the same spectrum and intensity, esspecially when its a 150w ballast vs. a 250w or 400w ballast

you should check out some of the threads in the sps forum about the radium bulb. many experienced reef keepers with experience running radiums for many years all agreed that running radiums on icecap electronic ballasts will produce extreme blue colors (more than XM20k) with less intensity. the SE radiums are not meant to run on HQI ballasts. they are a european bulb, that requires a pulse start to ignite them. by using an HQI ballast the bulb gets that extra "jolt" in order to fire the bulb properly (i think). this is why the bulb life is so short.

radiums are "supposed" to look incredibly blue, b/c they were designed to be run on electronic ballasts (or the euro equivalent). thus last a normal 9months or so.
 
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Re: 20k bulb tank shots

actinics off because I never use them except for sunset tranantion


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7355218#post7355218 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reefnewbie54321
Everyone agrees that 20k metal halide bulbs are the way to go to bring out the best color of your zoos correct?

I want to use the 20k bulbs but I dont want my tank to look too blue like I see alot. I see some tanks and it looks like they are only running actinics!

Does anyone have a full tank shot of what there tank looks like with there 20k bulbs + actinics on?

Thanks
49068DSC_1652.JPG
 
Re: 20k bulb tank shots

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7355218#post7355218 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reefnewbie54321
Everyone agrees that 20k metal halide bulbs are the way to go to bring out the best color of your zoos correct?

I don't think that everyone agrees on that....


I happen to think that VHO's make the zoas the sexiest.. While others think pc's while the others think t5 while the others think 10K and actinics or 14K....

I'm not going to say "all" but pretty much all the 20K tanks I have seen in person looked WAY to blue.... It's really hard to tell on the interweb what a tank really looks like to the eye becuase of the white balance on the digital cameras.

I have been thinking about trying some MH over my next zoa tank mostly cause i want to be able to keep some sps as well. I think I am giong to try some 14K's + actinics first. Actinics would just be on before and after the halide...

Oh yeah and zoalander..... Nice pics :D
 
nice picture jnb.

i agree with coralnutz, everyone has different opinions about the lighting.

but if someone says their zoas look better under 10k than anything else, i imagine they are a diver and are going for a "natural" look that they are used to seeing when they go diving.

when people say zoas look best under 20k, and have the most color, i still think that is the most accurate statement. but it is true that the sand, rocks, and everything else in the tank looks blue also. the amount of blue all depends on the bulb/ballast combination.

IMO/IMO. i cant stand the URI super actinic VHO's. they gave my zoas the strangest colors. and gave the tank a purplish/pink look. the T5 blue+ bulb is a very true blue actinic bulb, which i like alot better. but i would only use actinics for sunrise/sundown effects b/c i always used 14k/15k/20k bulbs anyways.

bottom line, you gota try em' before you can knock em' ;)
 
thanks - I dive frequently and love to get to a depth where blue is more pronounced - you lose reds faster then you might think when descending - a red tank at 40 feet can look black - if feels calmer - one reason I go with 20k

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7648346#post7648346 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by surfnvb7
nice picture jnb.

I agree with coralnutz, everyone has different opinions about the lighting.

but if someone says their zoas look better under 10k than anything else, i imagine they are a diver and are going for a "natural" look that they are used to seeing when they go diving.

when people say zoas look best under 20k, and have the most color, i still think that is the most accurate statement. but it is true that the sand, rocks, and everything else in the tank looks blue also. the amount of blue all depends on the bulb/ballast combination.

IMO/IMO. i cant stand the URI super actinic VHO's. they gave my zoas the strangest colors. and gave the tank a purplish/pink look. the T5 blue+ bulb is a very true blue actinic bulb, which i like alot better. but i would only use actinics for sunrise/sundown effects b/c i always used 14k/15k/20k bulbs anyways.

bottom line, you gota try em' before you can knock em' ;)
 
fwiw
i changed my xm 250 20ks this morning and took pictures before and after speed 250 f3.6 thru the fan ports - top row after 9 mths 12 hrs a day except 11 for the last month and bottom row is after 5 minutes - pic of my tank after 8 mths up earlier on this thread
49068change_at_9_mths_xm250_20k_r_.jpg
 
what is a fts?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7650901#post7650901 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MarvinsReef
anybody else here that runs 20K's have any FTS?

great pics btw...

Marvin
 
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