20k halides and zoa pally color

[SammyJ916]

Debating switching to a double ended 150w radium but windering if anyone else keeps their zoas and pallys under 20k and is satisfied with the color and pop

 

[Haplochromine]

I have mine under 20K and IMO it looks best. Some like yellow colours but I've always been a 'blue' person.

 

[mfinn]

When I switched to 20k mh lighting I was amazed at the colors I had been missing.

 

[Gill_bucket]

I have a 250 watt Ushio 20k HQI and would never go back. The only thing I didn't like when I first got it was that it was much harder to take decent pics. Everything kind of gets washed out in the pics but I am getting better with time.



this is a pic under 20k

This pic is with the old lights (4 10k t5s 2 super actinic t12s)

 

[heckeng]

Those pics look virtually identical color-wise on my computer. The 20k seems to have no blue tint to it at all.

 

[endlessblue]

In my experience 20k is the best for bringing out more unique colours. Also does a better job at cutting down algae growth. I had 14k to start hated it move to 20k and will never go back every!

 

[rysher]

the nice thing about LED, you can dim the blue or the white to get the color you want.

 

[Reef Bass]

+1 for 20,000K lights. And the cure for blue pics is to shoot in RAW and adjust the color temp while post processing. Totally accurate poppin colors.

 

[SoFloReefer]

I wish my point and shoot would shoot in RAW...
I liked 14000k but 20000k really looks good. Nothing beats the CREE Leds with dual dimmer circuits though (for growth and look imo)

 

[tinctorus]

Anyone have any experience with 22K bulbs??

I am getting ready to order a new halide/t5/led hood and I cant decide if I want to do 20K or 22K

I guess I g=could buy both and give the 22K 2 months to burn in and see how I like them and if I dont like the colors I can go to the proven 20K's
I just thought 22K's would give a TAD more blue but not as noticeable as the difference between 10K and 20K