mms_citrus
New member
So I've had this tank for about a year. Bought it used. Had an acrylic sump with it. I made a stand for it and we put it up opposite of kitchen on a wall and i found an 80 gal or something close glass tank for free and used it as a sump. Well, kitchens sometimes flood and sometimes you take down walls to make it better so we moved the tank and made it better.
I don't have step by step build pics but I'll show the setup and some of the cool features I think I have. In particular the sump area.
I used 2 acrylic sumps that I had and used extra bulkheads to join the 2 sumps. I used the existing 1" bulkheads on the larger rectangular sump and added 2 1.5" bulkheads up higher when I realized the 1" bulkheads were not flowing enough water.
Not clearly shown is something I really wanted which was a sealed leak proof sump area. I used pvc sheeting from Lowe's and silicone and made a pan the full length and width of the sump and ran it up the back wall of the stand 2 feet and 6" on the front. I also bored the block wall and made a drain for the sump area right out of the house so any flooding in the sump goes right out of the front. It allows me to do water changes and cleaning without having to bring anything in the house or whatever. Number 1 priority for me was mixing station and water changes without having to drag anything in or out.
The first picture on left is of the drain chamber and also the sump pump and return chamber. The acrylic sump that I used for this chamber was a bio ball sump and had a slide out drawer for filter material. I cut a hole for my 7" sock and used the drawer to hold the sock and help with splashing and creep. This is shown in the third picture.
The second picture just shows the basic layout. I have about 5 feet length and 30 inches width to work with for the sump area.
The fourth and fifth pics are just return chambers of the sump and general shot of the sump.
You probably noticed I have a toilet valve in the sump. I use it for my auto top off. It's connected directly to my ro system. I used it previously for a year without any problems and that was on a full flow water line. This ro line still develops full pressure when the valve is shut but it's rather small at 20gpd so risk of problems even if it stuck is low. Plus any overflow goes out of the house instead of into my drywall
I don't have step by step build pics but I'll show the setup and some of the cool features I think I have. In particular the sump area.
I used 2 acrylic sumps that I had and used extra bulkheads to join the 2 sumps. I used the existing 1" bulkheads on the larger rectangular sump and added 2 1.5" bulkheads up higher when I realized the 1" bulkheads were not flowing enough water.
Not clearly shown is something I really wanted which was a sealed leak proof sump area. I used pvc sheeting from Lowe's and silicone and made a pan the full length and width of the sump and ran it up the back wall of the stand 2 feet and 6" on the front. I also bored the block wall and made a drain for the sump area right out of the house so any flooding in the sump goes right out of the front. It allows me to do water changes and cleaning without having to bring anything in the house or whatever. Number 1 priority for me was mixing station and water changes without having to drag anything in or out.
The first picture on left is of the drain chamber and also the sump pump and return chamber. The acrylic sump that I used for this chamber was a bio ball sump and had a slide out drawer for filter material. I cut a hole for my 7" sock and used the drawer to hold the sock and help with splashing and creep. This is shown in the third picture.
The second picture just shows the basic layout. I have about 5 feet length and 30 inches width to work with for the sump area.
The fourth and fifth pics are just return chambers of the sump and general shot of the sump.
You probably noticed I have a toilet valve in the sump. I use it for my auto top off. It's connected directly to my ro system. I used it previously for a year without any problems and that was on a full flow water line. This ro line still develops full pressure when the valve is shut but it's rather small at 20gpd so risk of problems even if it stuck is low. Plus any overflow goes out of the house instead of into my drywall
