220 Inwall - Plan
- Thread starter bheron
- Start date
- Status
JC Pollman
Premium Member
since I have a tank-behind-a-wall in my basement, and have made plenty of changes along the way, let me suggest the following:
1. Make certain you have an exhaust fan in the tank room. I use a cheapo bathroom fan run on a timer - works well for keeping the humdity and CO2 down.
2. Run some tubing from the outside of the house to feed your skimmer - CO2 issues again.
3. Plan for mulitple redundancies: what if the electricty goes out - will your pumps start again on their own when the electricity comes back on - self priming? What do you plan on doing when any of your pumps mysteriously dies on Friday night? Use at least 2 smaller heaters in case one dies - or stays on. etc.
4. How are you going to reach the bottom of the tank from behind? Maybe a chair, or maybe you want to build an elevated walk way. You can add it in now much easier than later.
5. If you have any metes (temp, ph, orp, etc) think about if you want them on displayed on the front side of the tank. I used to have mine behind, but I find I notice problems much sooner if they are on the front because that is where I am usually sitting. If you plan it now, it will look much nicer than trying to do it later.
Of course you can what-if this thing to death, but as time goes on, you will be looking at more and more money sitting/growing in your tank. There are plenty of disaster stories on line - you have the chance to really do it right the first time.
As time goes on, I am becoming convinced that redundancy is the real key to success: the products we buy are seldom as good as we think they should be - and too expensive to replace if we gotta have it right now!
1. Make certain you have an exhaust fan in the tank room. I use a cheapo bathroom fan run on a timer - works well for keeping the humdity and CO2 down.
2. Run some tubing from the outside of the house to feed your skimmer - CO2 issues again.
3. Plan for mulitple redundancies: what if the electricty goes out - will your pumps start again on their own when the electricity comes back on - self priming? What do you plan on doing when any of your pumps mysteriously dies on Friday night? Use at least 2 smaller heaters in case one dies - or stays on. etc.
4. How are you going to reach the bottom of the tank from behind? Maybe a chair, or maybe you want to build an elevated walk way. You can add it in now much easier than later.
5. If you have any metes (temp, ph, orp, etc) think about if you want them on displayed on the front side of the tank. I used to have mine behind, but I find I notice problems much sooner if they are on the front because that is where I am usually sitting. If you plan it now, it will look much nicer than trying to do it later.
Of course you can what-if this thing to death, but as time goes on, you will be looking at more and more money sitting/growing in your tank. There are plenty of disaster stories on line - you have the chance to really do it right the first time.
As time goes on, I am becoming convinced that redundancy is the real key to success: the products we buy are seldom as good as we think they should be - and too expensive to replace if we gotta have it right now!
bheron
Active member
JC - thanks. thats really what I'd like to do - get enough feedback from people who've done this and "what would the do differently the next time around". thanks for the feedback.
some comments:
1. Make certain you have an exhaust fan in the tank room. I use a cheapo bathroom fan run on a timer - works well for keeping the humdity and CO2 down.
- yea, this is something I see come up more and more. i've read about a few different ideas - am going to make it a point of discussion with my contractor. the good thing is that there are ducts/hoses running along my basement ceiling and to the outside - for exhaust of dryer I guess. So I'm hoping I can tap in there?
2. Run some tubing from the outside of the house to feed your skimmer - CO2 issues again.
- please explain? what do you mean here? sounds like one i know i havent heard of yet.
3. Plan for mulitple redundancies: what if the electricty goes out - will your pumps start again on their own when the electricity comes back on - self priming? What do you plan on doing when any of your pumps mysteriously dies on Friday night? Use at least 2 smaller heaters in case one dies - or stays on. etc.
- I have alot of this in the plan - using 3 different breakers and splitting up the equipment on them. i know my return pump (mag18) should start right back up again - always has. am planning enough overflow room in my sump for a power outtage (also I have holes in my return tubes now).
4. How are you going to reach the bottom of the tank from behind? Maybe a chair, or maybe you want to build an elevated walk way. You can add it in now much easier than later.
- great point. i planned on adding something later but maybe its better to think about that now and build it in. its been on my mind how i'm going to access the thing. maybe a walkway build together with the stand.
5. If you have any metes (temp, ph, orp, etc) think about if you want them on displayed on the front side of the tank. I used to have mine behind, but I find I notice problems much sooner if they are on the front because that is where I am usually sitting. If you plan it now, it will look much nicer than trying to do it later.
-I like this idea. I dont have much now except for a Little Temp Digital thing. May not get anything else at all but I think I'll add a place for this in the front maybe.
Thanks!
some comments:
1. Make certain you have an exhaust fan in the tank room. I use a cheapo bathroom fan run on a timer - works well for keeping the humdity and CO2 down.
- yea, this is something I see come up more and more. i've read about a few different ideas - am going to make it a point of discussion with my contractor. the good thing is that there are ducts/hoses running along my basement ceiling and to the outside - for exhaust of dryer I guess. So I'm hoping I can tap in there?
2. Run some tubing from the outside of the house to feed your skimmer - CO2 issues again.
- please explain? what do you mean here? sounds like one i know i havent heard of yet.
3. Plan for mulitple redundancies: what if the electricty goes out - will your pumps start again on their own when the electricity comes back on - self priming? What do you plan on doing when any of your pumps mysteriously dies on Friday night? Use at least 2 smaller heaters in case one dies - or stays on. etc.
- I have alot of this in the plan - using 3 different breakers and splitting up the equipment on them. i know my return pump (mag18) should start right back up again - always has. am planning enough overflow room in my sump for a power outtage (also I have holes in my return tubes now).
4. How are you going to reach the bottom of the tank from behind? Maybe a chair, or maybe you want to build an elevated walk way. You can add it in now much easier than later.
- great point. i planned on adding something later but maybe its better to think about that now and build it in. its been on my mind how i'm going to access the thing. maybe a walkway build together with the stand.
5. If you have any metes (temp, ph, orp, etc) think about if you want them on displayed on the front side of the tank. I used to have mine behind, but I find I notice problems much sooner if they are on the front because that is where I am usually sitting. If you plan it now, it will look much nicer than trying to do it later.
-I like this idea. I dont have much now except for a Little Temp Digital thing. May not get anything else at all but I think I'll add a place for this in the front maybe.
Thanks!
JC Pollman
Premium Member
2. Run some tubing from the outside of the house to feed your skimmer - CO2 issues again.
- please explain? what do you mean here? sounds like one i know i havent heard of yet.
The idea is: if you have a high CO2 level in the basement (most new homes will) you want to use air with "nomal" levels in your skimmer - hence the need to get the air from outside.
A couple of additional thoughts:
1. You ought to plan on a refrigerator in the fish room, (if you do not have one downstairs) as it is more convenient to store the frozen fish food, DTs, garlic, etc, and your significant other will not accidentally throw them out.
2. I would suggest putting your refugium higher than your tank: you pump the water up to it and let gravity feed it back to the tank. That way your little critters do not go through a whirling impeller to get to the tank.
- please explain? what do you mean here? sounds like one i know i havent heard of yet.
The idea is: if you have a high CO2 level in the basement (most new homes will) you want to use air with "nomal" levels in your skimmer - hence the need to get the air from outside.
A couple of additional thoughts:
1. You ought to plan on a refrigerator in the fish room, (if you do not have one downstairs) as it is more convenient to store the frozen fish food, DTs, garlic, etc, and your significant other will not accidentally throw them out.
2. I would suggest putting your refugium higher than your tank: you pump the water up to it and let gravity feed it back to the tank. That way your little critters do not go through a whirling impeller to get to the tank.
bheron
Active member
That's a really interesting idea about the airline? So youre saying that better air will result in more efficient skimming??? really, this one's brand new to me. I actually can do that since there's a small basement window and also ducts to the outside.
1. already have a fridge and a freezer planned to be down there. have both now in the basement and i know the value.
2. this is also a great idea. i've seen people with there fuge's high and never understood why. i have lots of pods in my fuge now and they say they can make it back in via the impeller. i'll have to see if /how to change my design.
thanks
1. already have a fridge and a freezer planned to be down there. have both now in the basement and i know the value.
2. this is also a great idea. i've seen people with there fuge's high and never understood why. i have lots of pods in my fuge now and they say they can make it back in via the impeller. i'll have to see if /how to change my design.
thanks
Lordhelmet
Active member
Im in the process of adding an overflow to my 55 and i read something about a hole drilled into your return line. Now ive been thinking that over and cant get it trough my head where you would have one and why you would need one?
any info will be greeat i dont want to do anything that will cause a nice flood on the floor.
Chris.
any info will be greeat i dont want to do anything that will cause a nice flood on the floor.
Chris.
bheron
Active member
Lord Helmet, "finally we meet for the first time, for the last time."
Sorry, had to do that.
Actually, I do this today and its highly recommended. BAscially, the return line (water pumping from sump into tank) can create a siphon if you lose power or pump dies. When that happens your water in the tank will flow back into your sump...until the siphon breaks (I'm sure you knew that already).
Well, drilling a hole in the return line helps to break the siphon alot sooner so that you have less flow back into the aquarium. Many people say to drill several tiny 1/16" holes in your return line, about an inch below your water level. You have to try one or two and then basically test the thing to see what works in your case.
Let me know if that made sense!
Sorry, had to do that.
Actually, I do this today and its highly recommended. BAscially, the return line (water pumping from sump into tank) can create a siphon if you lose power or pump dies. When that happens your water in the tank will flow back into your sump...until the siphon breaks (I'm sure you knew that already).
Well, drilling a hole in the return line helps to break the siphon alot sooner so that you have less flow back into the aquarium. Many people say to drill several tiny 1/16" holes in your return line, about an inch below your water level. You have to try one or two and then basically test the thing to see what works in your case.
Let me know if that made sense!
shanekennedy
Premium Member
Re: 220 Inwall - Plan
just a few comments:
idon't believe stryofoam is needed for glass, only acrylic.
for glass a very flat high quality plywood should suffice
run a ups for a small recirculation pump or air pump. just something to keep fish alive during power outage. plug as little as possible in to the ups to extend runtime. consider adding a generator.
home depot has cool timers.
CLICK HERE they fit into a standard light switch faceplate. they have a plastic cover over the controls that when pressed serves as a manual on/off switch.
since you building you own stand, build it a little taller to put the aquarium closer to eye level & prevent viewers from having to bend over to look in. don't place it so high you need a step ladder to service it.
when calculating the wall thickness, remember to figure in the drywall. if the aquarium is flush with the drywall, adding trim will provide for a nice clean look.
just a few comments:
idon't believe stryofoam is needed for glass, only acrylic.
for glass a very flat high quality plywood should suffice
run a ups for a small recirculation pump or air pump. just something to keep fish alive during power outage. plug as little as possible in to the ups to extend runtime. consider adding a generator.
home depot has cool timers.
CLICK HERE they fit into a standard light switch faceplate. they have a plastic cover over the controls that when pressed serves as a manual on/off switch.
since you building you own stand, build it a little taller to put the aquarium closer to eye level & prevent viewers from having to bend over to look in. don't place it so high you need a step ladder to service it.
when calculating the wall thickness, remember to figure in the drywall. if the aquarium is flush with the drywall, adding trim will provide for a nice clean look.
JC Pollman
Premium Member
Higher refugium
Higher refugium
Having the refugium higher is important for creatures other than pods: there are mysis shrimps, mini stars, etc that would never make it through the impeller safely.
Higher refugium
Having the refugium higher is important for creatures other than pods: there are mysis shrimps, mini stars, etc that would never make it through the impeller safely.
bheron
Active member
shane- thanks fro the feedback....
idon't believe stryofoam is needed for glass, only acrylic.
for glass a very flat high quality plywood should suffice
I've read so much on this topic so it could go on forver. I've seen people do it with glass, in fact, more for glass since it can break easier? i thought it had to do with small, imperfections in the plywood which might result in a slightly unlevel surface.
run a ups for a small recirculation pump or air pump. just something to keep fish alive during power outage. plug as little as possible in to the ups to extend runtime. consider adding a generator.
whats a "ups". sorry, i'm really limited with my electrical skills. someday would like a generator but not with this plan, right now.
home depot has cool timers.
CLICK HERE they fit into a standard light switch faceplate. they have a plastic cover over the controls that when pressed serves as a manual on/off switch.
- the link here didnt work? i've gotten my timers in the past from HD but havent seen anything besides the standard ones.
since you building you own stand, build it a little taller to put the aquarium closer to eye level & prevent viewers from having to bend over to look in. don't place it so high you need a step ladder to service it.
- yes, trying to determine that. i'm actually going to make a PVC model of the tank so I can get used to how big its actually going to be! it will be helpful with the move into my basement, aquascaping, and also how to position it. i'm thinking somewhere between 42" and 45" off the ground. its 30" high. i'm thinking it its 42" off the ground that means I have to get up to at least 6' to reach in. i'm 6'1" and would need somethng to step on.
when calculating the wall thickness, remember to figure in the drywall. if the aquarium is flush with the drywall, adding trim will provide for a nice clean look.
- this is an area open fro debate. i actually want it to look exactly flush with the wall for a clean, straight look. i dont want the "picture frame" look like alot of tanks have. but i'm not sure how i'll accomplish the flat look with the trim on my glass tank and the drywall. very confusing. havent seen any pics on it yet either....
JC...
Having the refugium higher is important for creatures other than pods: there are mysis shrimps, mini stars, etc that would never make it through the impeller safely.
- good point. i'm already workong in a modified design to put the fuge up top. stay tuned!
thx
BH
idon't believe stryofoam is needed for glass, only acrylic.
for glass a very flat high quality plywood should suffice
I've read so much on this topic so it could go on forver. I've seen people do it with glass, in fact, more for glass since it can break easier? i thought it had to do with small, imperfections in the plywood which might result in a slightly unlevel surface.
run a ups for a small recirculation pump or air pump. just something to keep fish alive during power outage. plug as little as possible in to the ups to extend runtime. consider adding a generator.
whats a "ups". sorry, i'm really limited with my electrical skills. someday would like a generator but not with this plan, right now.
home depot has cool timers.
CLICK HERE they fit into a standard light switch faceplate. they have a plastic cover over the controls that when pressed serves as a manual on/off switch.
- the link here didnt work? i've gotten my timers in the past from HD but havent seen anything besides the standard ones.
since you building you own stand, build it a little taller to put the aquarium closer to eye level & prevent viewers from having to bend over to look in. don't place it so high you need a step ladder to service it.
- yes, trying to determine that. i'm actually going to make a PVC model of the tank so I can get used to how big its actually going to be! it will be helpful with the move into my basement, aquascaping, and also how to position it. i'm thinking somewhere between 42" and 45" off the ground. its 30" high. i'm thinking it its 42" off the ground that means I have to get up to at least 6' to reach in. i'm 6'1" and would need somethng to step on.
when calculating the wall thickness, remember to figure in the drywall. if the aquarium is flush with the drywall, adding trim will provide for a nice clean look.
- this is an area open fro debate. i actually want it to look exactly flush with the wall for a clean, straight look. i dont want the "picture frame" look like alot of tanks have. but i'm not sure how i'll accomplish the flat look with the trim on my glass tank and the drywall. very confusing. havent seen any pics on it yet either....
JC...
Having the refugium higher is important for creatures other than pods: there are mysis shrimps, mini stars, etc that would never make it through the impeller safely.
- good point. i'm already workong in a modified design to put the fuge up top. stay tuned!
thx
BH
Lordhelmet
Active member
bheron. thanks for the info. After giving it some more thought i realized what you are talking about makes perfect sense. thanks for helping me head off a potential disaster.
shanekennedy
Premium Member
bheron said:
ups = uninterruptible power supply
basically a battery
usually used for computers
bheron said:
try this link:
http://imagex.homedepot.com/f/248/1...ad/HDUS/EN_US/asset/images/eplus/337345_3.jpg
Digital 7-day programmable automatic, for loads up to 15 amp 6 programs with up to 42 on/off settings for daily, weekend and weekly combinations. Random setting feature available to avoid predictable timer controlled look.
Internet/Catalog # 337345
Store SKU# 451207
bheron said:
if you want the flush look, you can line up the aquarium edge with the drywall, then tape off the aquarium and use drywall mud to fill any small gaps between the aquarium & drywall.
bheron
Active member
Shane,
ups = uninterruptible power supply
basically a battery
usually used for computers
- alright, now youv'e got me intruiged. I like this idea. Where can I learn more about them? I'm somewhat of a techy.
home depot has cool timers.
try this link:
http://imagex.homedepot.com/f/248/1...us/337345_3.jpg
Digital 7-day programmable automatic, for loads up to 15 amp 6 programs with up to 42 on/off settings for daily, weekend and weekly combinations. Random setting feature available to avoid predictable timer controlled look.
Internet/Catalog # 337345
Store SKU# 451207
-thx. i'll have to look these up whenI go next time and check the prices.
if you want the flush look, you can line up the aquarium edge with the drywall, then tape off the aquarium and use drywall mud to fill any small gaps between the aquarium & drywall.
- THAT sounds like it would work. i see, so accomplish the flush look with taping. i like it. thanks.
ups = uninterruptible power supply
basically a battery
usually used for computers
- alright, now youv'e got me intruiged. I like this idea. Where can I learn more about them? I'm somewhat of a techy.
home depot has cool timers.
try this link:
http://imagex.homedepot.com/f/248/1...us/337345_3.jpg
Digital 7-day programmable automatic, for loads up to 15 amp 6 programs with up to 42 on/off settings for daily, weekend and weekly combinations. Random setting feature available to avoid predictable timer controlled look.
Internet/Catalog # 337345
Store SKU# 451207
-thx. i'll have to look these up whenI go next time and check the prices.
if you want the flush look, you can line up the aquarium edge with the drywall, then tape off the aquarium and use drywall mud to fill any small gaps between the aquarium & drywall.
- THAT sounds like it would work. i see, so accomplish the flush look with taping. i like it. thanks.
bheron
Active member
Sorry no updates. We did the move to the new house this weekend and its taken up all day from Fri 8am until now (Sat 9:30pm), but we're pretty mcuh pulled it all off! Luckily my wife is obsessed with getting this done as quickly as possible.
Well, the next step is to move my 75Gal with Fuge and Sump from the old house to the new one where I'll set it up temproarily for about 2 months while the basement and new tank is built.
So, for entertainment purposes, and hopefully to share a little bit, next I'll post the move of the old tank - probably attempt this tomrrow and post pics shortly thereafter.
PS -ShaneKennedy:
ups = uninterruptible power supply
basically a battery usually used for computers
- alright, now youv'e got me intruiged. I like this idea. Where can I learn more about them? I'm somewhat of a techy.
Any addt'l info on this?
Well, the next step is to move my 75Gal with Fuge and Sump from the old house to the new one where I'll set it up temproarily for about 2 months while the basement and new tank is built.
So, for entertainment purposes, and hopefully to share a little bit, next I'll post the move of the old tank - probably attempt this tomrrow and post pics shortly thereafter.
PS -ShaneKennedy:
ups = uninterruptible power supply
basically a battery usually used for computers
- alright, now youv'e got me intruiged. I like this idea. Where can I learn more about them? I'm somewhat of a techy.
Any addt'l info on this?
- Status
Similar threads
