24 gallon Aquapod (lots of pics)

icenine2005

New member
I'm setting up an 24 gallon aquapod (64w pc version). I'm currently running a 15 gallon and a 2.5 gallon set up that will be getting transfered into the 'pod.

Here is the original review I posted of it last week:


Here is the 24 gallon version of the Aquapod with the 64 watt PC hood. Box it came in from F&S; the packaging is rather disspointing. Just a few pieces of styrofoam protecting the outer edges of the tank and hood on two sides. Much of the tank is only protected by the cardboard walls of the box. There was another box around the "shelf" packaging, but no additional packing material.

DSCN1562.jpg



The first tank that was sent to me was cracked and with this packaging it is easy to see why that happened. There was not much in the way of visible damage to the outer box, but obviously it had been knocked around during shipping. F&S got another one out to me right away... so far I am a fan of the customer service there.


Here is the crack, again the portion of the glass that was cracked only had cardboard protecting it:


DSCN1564.jpg


The second tank I recived. No obvious cracks, but I'm looking over it very, very carefully.

DSCN1566.jpg


Looks to be OK. No visible cracks, bubbles or creases in the glass. ...but does that mean anything? lol.

There were some complaints about the seals posted here and some other forums.... these look pretty good IMO. I also think the laminate backing on the rear of the tank looks OK, that's been an issue for some as well.
Here is the back:

DSCN1569.jpg


The hood... no clicking when the hood is opened as some have reported with the 12 gallon. There are three rocker switches that work each dual sunpac bulb and the LED independently, even on a single outlet timer. (whew!) If just one lighting cord is plugged in the other is not carrying a current. (double whew! these were the issues some have seen with the 12 gallon version).

DSCN1567.jpg


When the hood is down I'm not seeing the light bleed through around the edges that I've seen on the 12 gallon.

Lights on:

DSCN1571.jpg


There is one fan (I'll be adding another or trying nano customs IAC chiller.

The plastic the hood is constructed of seems a bit thin. I would put the material on on par with the JBJ tank, but that is not saying much for it. I fear the hinges will not last long. They operate smoothly, but just seem rather fragile to me.
The rear chambers are laid out to my liking, however they could be a little wider. I'm going to try a DIY skimmer to fit back here at some point.

Some rough measurements:
(I would not start building any stands or modifications based on these, I'm posting them just to give you an idea of the proportions of the tank):

Outside length, width, height (including hood): 17L x 20W x 20H
Inside display and rear chamber measurements:

poddims.gif


Water volume without rock or sand: (only the stock pump is present in the rear chambers, sponges were removed) Approx: 22.5 gallons. I filled the tank with one gallon jugs to make this estimate. The display volume I would estimate at around 18 gallons.

Overall, thumbs up for the 24 gallon aquapod (or should it be 22.5? ..lol). It's pretty much what I expected and in general a solid tank, esp at the price it's generally offered. The packaging and hood material are the only real disappointments.
There are a few changes I'm going to make. I can see that I'm going to have to "fish proof" the false wall. There is a gap at the top that will allow fish, shrimp, snails etc to wander into the overflow. The lighting could have been a little more intense. Yes, I know there are MH versions of this tank but I really want a hood on our reef (a child and a cat would be the reason). But.... it's my softie reef that is getting transferred into here, the lighting I am currently running there is pretty much equivalent. I'm going to add an extra outlet to the display for more flow and stick a hydor on the existing outlet.
Now the question is.... how will it hold up? I'm going to hold onto my old 15 gal set up for a while just in case. (and keep things plugged into a GFI)




... and now some new stuff:


I decided to add an additional pump to the tank. There are now two outlets to the display rather than the original one. I drilled a hole into the false wall for the output and put a bulkhead fitting over it.
One of the outlets has a hydor the other has a loc line outlet on it with a "Y" connector. I am running the additional outlet with the extra stock pump from the cracked 'pod I got.

Here are some pics of the new outlet going in, I used a 1 1/8" boring bit to make the hole:

DSCN1574.jpg


And with the loc line "Y":

DSCN1578.jpg



One other tweak I'm making: there is some space between the hood and the false wall that fish are going to be able to jump through. I've done the fetch the fish from the overflow routine in my 15 gallon, and it's no fun for me.

I've added an acrylic lip to cover most of that space up and hopefully cut back on the jumpers. It's made out of some cheap acrylic from HD. I cut out small sections and used some silicone to attach them to the back of the false wall. I left some space between each piece to allow for some air flow, but still make it narrow enough to prevent or at least discurage fish from jumping through. I had seen where some folks had used a foam weather striping to block a similar space up in the JBJ Nano Cube tanks. However, I'm not real comfortable using a foam material in the tank even tough that would have been far less work. As corrosive as SW is my concern would be that the foam would disintgrate and break down to some bad nasties polluting the water.

Here is a pic of the set up: (yes, the clamps were only there till the epoxy cured)

DSCN1580.jpg
 
I'm doing a leak and pump test with the tank loaded with SW. I wanted to make sure everything is working before my livestock gets transferred. I will also get a feel what what temps will be like with the pumps running and a full photo period.
I was keeping my fingers crossed that the false wall was still water tight. There was the possibility that my new outlet would leak. Much to my surprise it looks tight. The display is filled while the overflow is mostly dry. This is going to mean that the surface skimmer is going to work as intended and the tank has a true overflow, not just a wall to hide equipment behind. Yippee! I'm letting the tank run with just water and a bit of new substrate in it for a few days to make sure there are no leaks. (that was a good idea SH).
The hydor and pumps are working too. Nice bit of turbulence without being overpowering. This is a softie reef so I'm not in need of any real crazy flow, but things are getting mixed up nicely.

I must say that I'm really happy with the hydor, you get a lot of effect for a ten dollar item and slip on installation.

Here is a pic of the surface aggitation:

DSCN1581.jpg



I'm pretty happy with how this turned out so far, and pretty amazed that I managed to not screw it up. I'm not exactly a DIY person.
 
Thanks for the comments!
My leak test is past 48 hrs and not a drip or crack so far (knock on wood). Temps are running in the low 80's. ...as high as 82 by the end of the photoperiod. ...that's OK for the most part, but I'm thinking that I may want to look into that second fan or IAC chiller by the summer.

..... I think I'm gonna pull off the transfer tomorrow.
 
What were your temps before you added the second pump?

Nice work. The circulation should benefit tremendously.

I just received my AP 24g so I have keen interest in your set up.

Good luck with the transfer.
 
Looks good.

I am wanting to mod my JBJ and add another source of flow.

Since I am a girl lol.. what parts do I need to order to do like you have here?
DSCN1566.jpg



DSCN1580.jpg


lg_911474_21239DZ.jpg


Do I need the pliers too do this too? also what size bulkhead fitting?

I really need help with the size on all of this. TIA, Mary
 
No problem Mary....

I used the 1/2" size, so my list of parts was this:

Bulkhead fitting, Double Threaded (1/2")

...you wil need to drill a 1 1/8" hole for the bulkhead. For this I justed used a a boring bit.

MPT x 90Ã"šÃ‚° Elbow Insert (1/2" x 1/2")

Then from the selection you posted above:

K. MPT Connector (1/2")
L. Y Fitting (1/2")
G. Ball Socket Tubing;1/2" (6") (x2)
J. 1-1/4" Flare Nozzle (1/2") (x2)

You could switch everything to the 3/4" size if you wanted... but in a tank this size I figured the 1/2" was fine. I've never used the tool, but I would imagine that it makes things much, much easier.

Here is another source for loc line, but the F&S prices are pretty good.

www.modularhose.com

ncf3, I did not really run the system with just one pump. But on that topic things have been heating up a bit more. The first 48 hours things looked to be topping out at 82. But by the end of the night last night they were up around 85. Since there is presently no heater in the tank I think it may have just taken a while to heat up the whole thing (water was really chilly to start with). ...and now it's looking like I may want to deal with the heat issue before I move on.

I'm going to extend the waiting period here for at least antoher week before I transfer things. I'll shut off the second pump and see what effect that has on the temps. So, I'll be able to answer your question about temps with one pump in a day or two. Other than that, I'm talking to nanocustoms about the IAC chiller they sell, I may be adding that to the system very soon. ...I thought this tank might need it before I even had it in hand... and it looks like that was right.
 
Last edited:
Well... this project is over with.

The pod sprung a leak in the upper right hand corner. ...now there is no visible crack, it's begun to drip from under the rim.
I noticed a salt stain this morning, but figured I was just sloppy closing the hood or something. ...but this afternoon I noticed that it was back again, and this time I saw the source. It was a slow but steady drip from under that rim. Bad news. A new droplette was forming every minute or so, and you know that is not going to get any better.

The good news is that I didn not transfer everything today as planned. ...and I am really, really glad that I tested this system for a few days.

anyway.... I'm done with the pod. While there was a hydor and another pump added I really don't think that would have been to blame for the leak. The tank was level, so that does not come into play either.

I snapped a pic of the leak, I'll get that up sometime soon.
 
Here are a few shots of the drip, sorry for the poor quality I was kinda in a hurry to empty the thing by that point.

DSCN1589.jpg


A closer shot.... I don't know if you can tell, but the bead of water was developing from under the rim.



DSCN1597.jpg
 
Sorry to hear this. :( Are you going to get with the dealer that you got it from?



I will make sure that I do the water test too when mine comes in and go over it with the magnifying glass. to be sure.

This is truly a bummer, the only good thing is you found it before you transferred everything over.
 
Check the left side for leak. Maybe small gap exists between glass and rim inside the front corners where possible water can leak.

Icenin2005 you got pm
 
I have the 24 Gallon Nano-Cube DX and have a similar leak issue. On both side, right before the glass curved toward the front I get a leak when I am using a mag-float too fast near the top. I guess I am causing a wave of water to go up against the seal in the corners. Only happens when I am cleaning glass and causing waves. It does happen to both sides. The water is not going over the edge, it is coming out between the trim plastic and the glass. It is definitely a small defect. But nothing I am going to do anything about.

I just clean alittle slower near the top.
 
Yep.... well this was occuring without any manual intervention. Leaks are progressive and will get worse and worse over time.
 
Back
Top