240 Gal build suggestions

[Graf-X]

Hello reef central community,

I am in the process of upgrading my 72 bowfront into the 240G sps reef setup i have always wanted.

I have determined the tank dimensions and make - Glasscages custom w/starfire 3 sides (72x24x31), however i am having trouble deciding to go for a closed loop setup with a single (middle) overflow or to go dual overflow (w/4 returns - Glasscages standard) + powerhead/wavemakers for water movement.

Any advice pertaining to this build (pros/cons) in the area of water movement/plumbing would be greatly appreciated. The tank is going in a 30” deep wall cabinet (custom) so there will only be 5 inches or so to work with directly behind the tank.

Thanks!!

 

[Kannin]

I am a fan of closed loop. Even thought the power usage is higher... the tank is much cleaner looking. I am building a 220 right now and I am doing a closed loop with a Baracuda.

 

[Graf-X]

How much room behind the tank is normally nessesary for a closed loop system?

 

[mcliffy2]

I assume you have researched glasscages? They are hit or miss, some tanks are great, but I heard enough stories of cracking (along with only having a 90 day warranty) to stay away.

Also might suggest on the dimensions, something wider and a bit shallower. Working on a tank that deep at the sand bed can be difficult, and a wider tank will allow you more flexibility for aquascaping....these of course are just personal preferences, so if you like the deep tank go for it (it is nice for viewing, I have a 30" deep now, but am going shorter on my next).

 

[DaveMorris]

I like the closed loop idea for a clean look. Powerheads are too bulky in the tank. I just ordered my 300g starphire Leemar tank and it is going to be drilled for a closed loop. I'll probably be using a Hammerhead pump for the CL.

 

[Graf-X]

Thanks so much for the input. I am really leaning towards the CL setup because of the "clean look". I've heard good things about the hammerhead pump too. For a 200+ gal tank, how many gals should I be pushing thru the CL system (what size pump?)

Regarding the tank make/size. I guess I was attracted to the fact that I could pick-up the tank from GlassCages seeing that Im in Atlanta (and they are in Tenn). I'm def a rookie when it comes to large custom tank design etc. I do know I want the starfire glass on 3 sides. Im also re-thinking the size now that you mentioned the height issue.

This is going to take forever to decide and me lady is pushing to "just buy it already"... uuuug.

 

[Harleyguy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11380008#post11380008 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Graf-X
How much room behind the tank is normally nessesary for a closed loop system?

Very little, depending on how the tank is drilled. A closed loop is just that, a loop that comes straight out of the tank to a pump then back to the tank.

Where are your returns going to be? Back of the tank, bottom, over the top?

 

[Harleyguy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11386027#post11386027 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Graf-X
Im also re-thinking the size now that you mentioned the height issue.

This is going to take forever to decide and me lady is pushing to "just buy it already"... uuuug.

As for the height, there are a lot of pros and cons. Deeper tanks require more light, more light means more $$$ both for the equipment and the power. Deeper tanks also cause you to get wet and yes they can be tougher to aquascape and place corals, but with all that said I love the look of a deep tank. If you focus is coral shorter is probably better for you. If you like corals but also like to see fish swimming deeper might suit you better. It’s all a matter of opinion.

I also agree with your "lady" just buy it already" you will not know if 31" is too deep for you until you try it. Whatever you decide I'm sure you're going to love it. Good luck

 

[Graf-X]

Hi Harleyguy - fellow Georgian.

Good question... Im now stepping back and looking at options for the tank vendor. This is obviously a big investment and it seems like I may need to do a little more research regarding the custom tank provider and details.

It seems like a bottom drilled tank for the CL would be the least intrusive... however I get nervous just in general with drilling the tank as I havent had any experience with a CL to date. Mcliffy2's comment about cracking tanks makes me even more nervous...

 

[Harleyguy]

Drilling the bottom of a tank can be risky; multiple holes will weaken the tank. I asked my builder for 8 holes in the bottom of my tank and flat out said no way. You can have your returns in the back glass and over the top and have the same effect. And if you use standard bulkheads they don't stand out that much, so it's not that bad.

 

[mcliffy2]

check around in the vendor feedback forum. Some people swear by glasscages, but there are also those who have horror stories. If you can go and pick up in person, I think your chances of good cust. service do increase tho, as they do with any face to face transaction. For the tank I'm planning, the quote I got from Miracles (they are an RC sponsor), was maybe 20-30% more than GC but it comes with a 3 year warranty I beleive and everyone I've found with a tank by them seems satisfied (vs. 90 days warranty with GC - personally that tiny warranty just makes me nervous, a tank isnt something that should break, so I would think it wouldnt cost much on the balance sheet to offer a longer warranty). Also, I'm not sure if GC offers an external overflow - if you need space for a closed loop, an external is definitely worth the glass so you dont have the overflow dividing up your space in the tank.

 

[bbehring]

you could go with 3 starfire glass panels and have the back and bottom panels made out of plexi. Then it's easier to drill for CL supply/returns. Not sure which mfr makes the tank, but I was reading a thread in the large tank forum with these specs. I think it's under "I'm back" or something close to that? With glass, just figure out were you want your supply/retun bulkheads and have the mfr drill the tank for you during the manufacturering process. You can't drill the bottom of most glass tanks your self as the bottom panel is usually tempered glass. A great place to check and look through CL into is at OceansMotions.com. Even if you don't want to go with an OM squirt, people have posted quite a few build photos of their CL system. I have a CL on my tank with a 4 way OM and love it. On my opcoming 210 build I'm planning to do closed loop with a om 4 way and a tunze wave box.

 

[Kshack]

I have a tank from them and am very happy with how it turned out. I have seen others that have better looking joints, but the I spend more time looking into the tank. My tank is 68X25X36. My prior tank was 60X30X30. I much prefer the new tank for two reasons. I went from 30 wide to 36 wide and it gives you more options for your rock work. Go as wide as you can. It was hard to clean the sides at the bottom of my 30 inch deep tank. You just can not get that much leverage down that low. I was looking at a 27-28 inch deep tank, but that would require 3/4 inch glass rather than 1/2 for a 25 deep. The cost was almost $1,000 for that 3 inches..not worth it to me.
After looking at all the holes that are required for closed loop I went another direction. Overflow is a custom Califo (sp?) linear style and turned out well. They make a box about 4X4" and place it along the entire length about 1.5 inches from the top. Drill two holes for 1.5 inch schedule 80 bulkheads (they would only do this internally). Advantage: less room used up inside the tank and you get better surface skimming from the overflow. I made external Durso and it is working well. There is very little water pressure at only 4", so little chance the bulkheads will ever leak.
Returns are up and over and go through bulkheads in the euro bracing (I have three, but you can modify these). Advantage: No holes in the tank and easy to get a siphon break when you stop the pump.
Circulation: Look into the Vortech pumps. I have two on the wireless controller and like them very much. Advantage: again, NO holes for the closed loop. You can move them (unlike the holes you have drilled). No heat in the water, quiet, low energy, very wide flow pattern, ability to make a wave, battery backup for power outage, no mechanical diverter to clean or fail or plumb (OM 4 way), did I mention NO holes and bulkheads.
Let me know if you ned any more details, but after 6 mo of research this is what I did and would do exactly the same thing over 1 year later.

Ken

 

[Graf-X]

Thanks for the reply Kshack. Do you have any pictures of your overflow/euro bracing?

 

[ycnibrc]

I will change your dimension to 72''L X 31''D X 24" H. 24'' D is too narow for aquascape 31'' is much better. If I have to do my tank again I will go will all power head for circulation since you don't have to worry about leak,plumbing and much simplier to set up since you are new to the hobby.

 

[Graf-X]

yeah, thanks everyone for the input.

68 x 31(deep) x 25(high) is sounding like an optimal size. I may opt for a single overflow on the left side of the tank (entire left side similar to Kshacks custom Califo overflow suggestion) - and having a frontal and right side viewing area. probably stick with the Vortech or Tunes for circ instead of the CL as well.

Im going to try to illustrate but any reason why a single Califo overflow on the 31" (left side) wall would not be a good option? Thanks!

- PS - I am also going to build out from the wall 35" to accommodate the 31" tank depth rather than the original specified size... and am now trying to choose between vendors: Glass Cages (local), A.G.E., and Aquarium Obsessed...

 

[dougchambers]

You are looking at a bigger tank, but here are some ideas based on what we did with our in-wall tank.

Layout and closed loop drain/returns in the bottom:

Closed loop:

Finished tank: