240 Inwall Construction (Image Intense)

Don't you wish you had eurobracing? I wish I didn't have a pane of glass covering the center of my tank. How do you clean the underside of the bracing, considering the coral height?

Impressive back view.
 
I have 3 strips from fornt to back for bracing and a little around the entire tank. Its a bummer because I am using 3 mh' oh well.

Joe your tank is as always an inspiration....
 
matt & pam: Yes, in retrospect, I'd much rather have had a euro-braced tank. But, I deal with what I have. :cool:

The air induction system contributes to the buildup and having great water surface agitation doesn't help much either. I clean the underside of the braces with a razor blade attached to the end of a Kent scraper. I simply sawed an angled slot in the end with a Japanese saw which creates a very thin cut. The blades friction fit into this with no fear of losing one into the tank.

854_razor.jpg


erics3000: Thank you very much.

Joseph.
 
Joseph,

I just took 3 days to read the entire thread start to finish. Your simply amazing. I am a DIY guy as well and I want to thank you for the list of projects you have given me. Your display is awe inspiring. I will strive to achieve the same result in my little piece of the reef. Thanks again and great work.
 
saltysupply: Thank you very much. Glad you like it.

bosworth: Wow. Three days? While that seems like a long time, I'm actually impressed you were able to get through this written saga so quickly. ;) Glad I was able to add to your list of DIY projects and thanks for the very kind words.



Here's a mini-update on the tank as it's been a while now. The VHO end-cap issue continues. :( Although, with the one set still running and no visible means of degradation within the tank, losing 440-watts of power usage hasn't been too troublesome. ;) Anyway... it would appear that the dimmer was also taken out by this ordeal. I decided to purchase a new IC 660 ballast to expedite the return of all lighting systems. When I added this new ballast to the dimming system, one bank or side of its circuit wouldn't light. When the dimmer is connected to the ballast, it takes over any fault shut-down needed should there be a short of some kind. Apparently, the wiring has an issue that would trip such a shut-down but the dimmer didn't react as it should have. I am sure of this by the small puff of smoke emitting from the ballast. :( So... end-cap three, ballasts/dimmer zero on the scorecard. Both ballasts went in to IC and were able to be repaired and should now be on their way home. I'll be removing the dimmer and finding the cause of the wiring issue. I do have another wiring harness so I may even rewire this circuit if need be. Or... I may even continue to simply run with one 440-watt system and get another dimmer for this system. Haven't decided as of yet. The continually rising cost of electricity here in CA is helping me to decide though. Grrr... PG&E. :(

We are experiencing an early Spring here and had a few upper 70's days already. I noticed a few days back that the tank temp had prematurely gone up a full degree and when I looked in on the tank, it appeared that the chiller had been put into service. This alone was frightening in itself (chiller on in February!!) but things got worse. It appeared that the chiller was not working as it should and remained on longer than the typical ~5-minute on cycle. When I checked the chiller outside, the compressor was only slightly warm and cool air was coming from the fan and condenser. Yep... another "chunk of change" going toward the tank. :( The good news is that I was able to find this issue now and not when the temps really start to climb. I decided to take this "opportunity" to upgrade my chiller from the current 1/3HP to a 1/2HP, which I feel is better rated for my tank. Luckily... or is it smartly? ;) ... I originally designed the acrylic chiller coil housing to fit the 1/2HP AquaLogic drop-in-coil chiller too, so it should be a relatively simple switch. I will probably have the 1/3rd looked at and see if it's as simple as a freon leak and have it repaired and recharged and kept as a back-up unit. When you think of how hot it gets here (days on end of +100-degree) and how vulnerable all these pretty sticks are to relatively small upward temp swings, the cost of a new chiller is cheap insurance. At this stage of the ref-keeping game, I can't imagine a total melt-down due to a hot tank. There... I've justified the cost in my mind. I feel better. :D

I guess this update wasn't as "mini" as I thought it would be. ;) Oh... and the tank is doing well. Corals continue to request a bigger tank but pruning is a far more economical path. ;)

Joseph.
 
Interesting about the lighting issue. I would have to think the achilles heel would be the dimmer, but you could have some corrosion or a nicked wire somewhere too.

Just out of curiosity, have you put any thought into a ground loop for cooling? I know our rates have climed quite a bit in the last two years too, but regardless of the cost, I like to build so my system runs as efficiently as possible.
 
How on earth do you keep your back wall so clean? Mine was always either nasty with algae or covered in coralline.

Absolutely stunning Joseph. The tank continues to get better with age.
 
Jonathan: Actually, the achilles heel was the shorted out, smoking and charred end-cap. ;) Geothermal cooling isn't very feasible at my home. We have the lovely hardpan soil that is impervious to even the largest of ground tilling equipment. Seriously, when I attempted to dig trenches for our backyard sprinklers when we moved into our house, the heavy duty trencher simply bounced on this "dirt". A fourty-pound bar simply vibrated in my hands with barely a puff of dust as I used all my strength to strike it. Skyscrapers should be built of this stuff. ;) So... I would if I could but I can't.

Marc: Well, it's either this or I pull the tank down... which isn't an option. ;)

MyMonkey: Thank you very much. I keep the side and back panes of glass clean with both a cleaning magnet and the Kent scraper/razor blade as seen in the photo eight posts back. Well... those and a certain level of anal-retentiveness. ;)

Joseph.
 
bummer about the hard pan. my lot was scraped when they built the house, so I may have a similar issue, but I also have a high water table. Since the ground water here is 45 - 55F, I still think I will be able to pull something off if needed.
 
I don't know what to say. Are you sure you covered all your bases? lol..... I have never been more impressed. I think you may have just exceeded my respect for Paul Whitby. Don't worry Paul, I still think you have one of the most beautiful reefs I have ever seen but this guy may have you on set up....lol

Congrats on a wonderfully, beautiful, astonishing tank!!
 
Paul and his 1000 or so gallons of saltwater eh? I am proud to say that my display lights were used to light a portion of his fuge at one point. :) 192 watt PC's from my 58.
 
Your thread is a standby for me. I love to read and look at your great pictures. The effort you put forth in your tank, photo skills and your thread is enioyed by many. :)
 
Hey weatherson your tank has been an inspiration to me for some time now. Also your photography is superb! Could you share the exif data for your FTS?
 
Airman: Thanks and I'm pleased it's appreciated.

RevHtree: Thank you very much. The last FTS, as with most the others, is a stitched together image of three original shots. All were taken with the Canon Rebel EOS and 100mm lens from about 12' away from the tank. I basically set up the camera on a tripod and shoot from left to right. The right side shot I typically have to adjust the settings to compensate for the extreme highlights from the corals being so close to the surface and their spread creating so much shadow below. The contrast here is very difficult to deal with. All three shots were taken without the flash, manual focus and here are the other specs with left - middle - right respective numbers...

F-stop
f/20 â€"œ f/20 â€"œ f/32

Exposure time (seconds)
0.8 â€"œ 0.5 â€"œ 2.0
ISO Speed
100 â€"œ 100 â€"œ 100

Exposure Bias (steps)
(0) â€"œ (0) â€"œ (-2)

Focal Length (mm)
100 â€"œ 100 â€"œ 100

Joseph.
 
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