245 Gallon Michigan Reef Tank

[rldcpa]

To let you know how I got here...

A few months ago, I went to a family restaurant with my family and they had a nicely kept reef aquarium and it peaked my interest. I had a marine tank many years ago but then I had kids and moved and sold everything off and concentrated on my family. Now the children are grown and I decided it was time to restart the hobby again.

My goal is to have a stable mixed reef aquarium, with a good deal of SPS, LPS, clams and a number of small and mid sized friendly reef safe fish. I am going to try to stay away from problem fish, corals and equipment.

Thanks to this forum and other sites my research began to update my knowledge of maintaining a successful reef tank. Things have changed and I needed to know the changes to the hobbythat occurred over the years.

My tank is scheduled to be here within the next couple of weeks and in the mean time I have gone on a shopping spree getting the best equipment I could reasonably afford and tried to take advantage of the various sales from online stores.

I will gather some photo's of the build in subsequent posts. Feel free to comment and critique my build and hopefully I will be successful. Thanks for all your support.

 

[rldcpa]

The first thing I had to do was to sand, patch and paint the room and then clean the carpets. This was a requirement (order) from my wife prior to doing anything. This took about 5 weeks to complete, which was fine as I had much research to do.

Originally I was going to go with a 110 gallon but slowly it grew to a 245 gallon.

Now with that big a tank, weight might be an issue so more research and then a trip to Home Depot to get 2 Jack Post that can each hold up to 9000 pounds and then a 6"x6"x8' beam to support the floor joists.

See attached photos (took 3 of us to get the 6x6x8 up and secure.

 

[rldcpa]

Here is some of the BRS Reef Saver Rock. I asked for alot of large pieces and that is what I got.

 

[laf-reef]

Welcome back to the hobby. Sounds like it's going to be a great build.

Comment on jack posts - to properly support the weight the slab needs to be thickened below the jack post. If you simply install them on top of a "standard" concrete slab they'll crack the slab when subjected to the load. The cracked slab will depress/deflect and prevent the jack post from carrying the load as planned.

 

[rldcpa]

Here is some of the equipment that I will be using.

For lighting I got 3 LED Maxspect Razor 160 watt 16k lights. I beleive they will cover the tank as i will be running them front to back.

For the protein skimmer I went with the SRO5000 Int. I believe this will handle this tank. i thought about the 3000 model but went up one size.

For a controller I went with the Neptune Apex as I felt it was priced well, seemed to be the most popular and heard good things about it. It will be controlling my heaters, pumps and ATO.

 

[rldcpa]

For Substrate I got 90# of Tropic Eden Reeflakes. I know this does not seem like much but I will not put it under the rock and only plan to have 1/2" to 1" in depth of substrate. Just enough to cover the bottom nicely without having problems with dirty deep gravel that could cause issues later. This is reaaly clean and has a nice look to it. It was more expensive than other brands but for a few dollars more, I feel that it was the right size not to get blown around and one of the nicer looking substrates.

I started making RO/DI water right away as I need quite a few gallons and this BRS unit makes only about 75 gallons per day. I got a few Brute trash cans to store the water and installed a float so it would automatically shut off and not overflow onto my floor. I was surprised that my water was not that bad as the TDS was only about 5.

 

[rldcpa]

For flow, I got 2 Tunze 6105 controllable Streams. I may have to add 1 or 2 more down the road. We will see how powerful these end up being.

My main return pump is a Waterblaster HY-7000W. It should be able to handle the tank. I thought the 10000 would be to powerful and the 5000 to weak. I am planning on about 600-900 gallons per hour through the main part of the sump. We will see.

The Sump also has a built in 20 gallon ATO and a built in refugium that will be fed from a small Enheim 600 compact pump. The refugium will hold and grow Chaeto and I bought a 38 par 18 watt, 1200 lumens, 4900k LED clip on light.

 

[rldcpa]

I did consider the pressure on the basement cement floor. I thought that I could break up the floor and make footings, but that would be a mess and expensive. I also though of puting a plate under the post to spread the weight to the floor. It turned out these jack posts have a 6x6" plate on the bottom just for this kind of application. These are made to help support floors under heavy appliances and in my case, a big tank.

So, I figured that the tank will weigh up to 3000 pounds complete. The tank will sit on the outside wall of the foundation which will take alot of the weight, most of the weight will be spread across the 4-6 joists and the 6"x6"x8' beem will help support the floor the tank sits on. I estimate that the weight on each post could not be more than 1000 pounds each and more likely 500 pounds per post.

So even if a 1000 pounds are on each post and the other weight is spread to the foundation wall and joists, the plate at the bottom of the post is 36 square inches which would only be put pressure of 28 pounds per square inch on the cement floor which should not cause any damage.

Let me know if you think i am way off here or if I am missing something.

 

[rldcpa]

The Tank

The tank is a Great Lakes Aquarium all glass tank with Starphyre front glass. the tank is 72" long, 30" deep, and 26" high.

I wanted the 30" depth for a decent area for aquascaping and originally I was going with a 22" high tank as it was less expensive and easier to service, but when I saw the 26", I decided that the look was so much better.

The overflow was my biggest concern and alot of research went into it. Originally I looked at a Miracles tank where they were going to buld me a bean-animal overflow on the outside on the back of the tank. This would allow more room inside the tank, but the cost was double and had eurobracing which seemed like cleaning and maintenance would be more hassle to maintain.

Instead Great Lakes Aquarium built me an inside overflow with 3 1.5" holes for drains (1 vacuum drain, 1 durso drain which will have very little flow, and a third draim for emergency only) and one 1" return split into to tow 3/4" deep returns that will run down to the bottom for better flow behind the corals. The only negative to this overflow is that it is inside the tank.

The overflow is black so I had the back of the tank painted black so all wires and the back of the tank is hidden. It should make the tank look very clean.

I will try to have a aquascaping that allows for depth of field coral placement and hides most of the overflow when setup and should cover it completely once the coral growth matures.

Being all glass and 26" high and 30" deep the tank required 2 cross braces (2 inches wide) at 24" and 48" from the side edge of the tank. These should not interfere with maintenance. Pictures will be forthcoming.

 

[rldcpa]

In the next few months I will need to get a few more items, most likely in this order:

1. Carbon Reactor - Not sure which one to get, but they all seem reasonably priced...might go with the 4" Octopus
2. Bio-pellet reactor - Will either go with a Reef Octopus or a Reef Dynamics. Both have pumps with the units.
3. Calcium Reactor - Once corals are underway, I will need this as dosing will most likely be too expensive. I was thinking of a Aquariumplants CarbonDoser Electronic Co2 Regulator with digital counter, PH probe from Neptune Apex, the CO2 tank I will get at Airgas but still unsure which Calcium Reactor would be best with the Aquariumplants regulator as I do not need a bubble counter when using this regulator.

Any suggestions on the above 3?

 

[tdb320reef]

Here is some of the equipment that I will be using.

For lighting I got 3 LED Maxspect Razor 160 watt 16k lights. I beleive they will cover the tank as i will be running them front to back.

For the protein skimmer I went with the SRO5000 Int. I believe this will handle this tank. i thought about the 3000 model but went up one size.

For a controller I went with the Neptune Apex as I felt it was priced well, seemed to be the most popular and heard good things about it. It will be controlling my heaters, pumps and ATO.

I have that skimmer on a 320 it is a great skimmer.

 

[Adam G]

Sounds like you are doing it right. I like your choice of equiptment. Looking forward to watch how this progresses!

 

[laf-reef]

I did consider the pressure on the basement cement floor. I thought that I could break up the floor and make footings, but that would be a mess and expensive. I also though of puting a plate under the post to spread the weight to the floor. It turned out these jack posts have a 6x6" plate on the bottom just for this kind of application. These are made to help support floors under heavy appliances and in my case, a big tank.

So, I figured that the tank will weigh up to 3000 pounds complete. The tank will sit on the outside wall of the foundation which will take alot of the weight, most of the weight will be spread across the 4-6 joists and the 6"x6"x8' beem will help support the floor the tank sits on. I estimate that the weight on each post could not be more than 1000 pounds each and more likely 500 pounds per post.

So even if a 1000 pounds are on each post and the other weight is spread to the foundation wall and joists, the plate at the bottom of the post is 36 square inches which would only be put pressure of 28 pounds per square inch on the cement floor which should not cause any damage.

Let me know if you think i am way off here or if I am missing something.

I suspect you'll find the slab will crack at the base of these jack posts. There are several factors that may work in your favor - thickness of the slab, rebar in the slab, compressive strength of the concrete, and load bearing capacity of the soil below the slab. I considered a similar set-up when I installed my 120 on the first floor. I had a professional structural engineer review the plan and he rejected the use of jack posts without thickening the slab below them. Instead he recommended doubling-up or sistering the floor joists (2x10's in my case) below the tank. I sistering the floor joists and haven't had any issues - tank has been installed for 5 years.

Having said all of that, you may be fine but I'd recommend having it reviewed by a structural engineer.

 

[rldcpa]

Its funny, but the tank builder said I don't need any additional support. He may be right but for $110 I think it is worth the additional support.

The tank will sit on the foundation wall, which can support tons of weight and will come into the room only 30 inches. I ran the 6x6x8' beam across 6 joists only 24" from the foundation wall. Its not going to flex the floor at all with this setup.

However, you are right that you could get cracking of the cement if the cement is thin, dirt underneath is not compressed, etc. The floor should be good for up to 3000psi and I will have at most 27psi so i do not think I have an issue at all.

I do appreciate your concern and will certainly watch the effect of the tank on the joists, floor and cement and if I see any issue, I will address it.

 

[rldcpa]

I took about 30% of the BRS Reefsaver Rock (after rinsing it off) and treated it with some RO/DI water and vinegar to see how dirty it was. After acouple of days I then soaked in just Ro/di wter. I really got no residue or smell.

I think for the other 70% I will just rinse it since it is going to be a new tank setup.

 

[zsqure]

Subscribed to this thread. I would also like a GLA tank. Right now I am slinking along with a trusty corner overflow 90 gal that I would love to replace with an 8ft tank down the road.

 

[rldcpa]

I saw one of their 8 foot tanks and its huge. 6ft is as big as I dared for room size and my wife killing me if I went any bigger.

She approved the 6 foot but only wanted the 24" deep tank as she thought it would come into the room too much. I ordered the 30" deep tank as I wanted the room for aquascaping. I know its only 6 more inches but I feel it will open up more options. Also, it allowed a 24" deep sump instead of only 18" which I really wanted to fit everything I wanted in.

 

[BigCity]

Looking forward to some pics, I have requested a quote from Great Lakes for a very similar aquarium setup. Interested on opinions on the service and quality as I have requests out to about 4 or 5 manufacturers and also for a deep dimension 300g.

 

[Crazy_Beaver]

very nice choice of equipment and dimensions!You are a man with a plan and ill follow!!!!

 

[rldcpa]

I stopped at Great Lakes Aquarium, the builder of my tank, and its ready for delivery on Sunday. All I can say is its really big. My wife is going to kill me when she sees this thing. The tank looks nice and the rear centered overflow doesn't look too big and is only 5 inches deep. I had the back of the tank painted black and the overflow box is black so it should all blend in well. I should be able to hide most of it with the BRS Reef Saver dry rock I got. Good thing I am having it delivered as the tank, stand and sump are around 300+ pounds.

The sump is huge too. In fact, it seems like its large enough to be a good sized display tank let alone a sump. The sump came out nice, with built in ATO chamber, Reactor and Skimmer section, 3 baffles, pump section and refugium.

The stand came out nice with a nice smooth black finish with 2 front door and 2 side doors and rear open access.

Plus on Sunday Best Buy is delivering my upgrade 60" LED TV (upgraded from 40" LCD).

Sunday can't come too soon.