250 watt SE MH lamps compared

[Bergovoy]

I wanted to see the efficiency of the bulbs also, as sometimes it is not jsut a matter of preference of livestock. I did not factor in the cost or lifespan of hte bulb, just used the information that was already published.

LAMP PAR Watt Max AMP Max PAR Par
WATT AMP / WATT /AMP

XM10k 626 249 254 2.15 2.25 2.5 291.2
Iwasaki 605 250 253 2.11 2.19 2.4 286.7
AB10K 434 252 254 2.15 2.51 1.7 201.9
Ushio 408 251 269 2.14 2.61 1.6 190.7
CV10K 360 249 251 2.11 2.15 1.4 170.6
Radium 327 249 252 2.18 2.23 1.3 150.0
CV20K 286 249 265 2.16 2.55 1.1 132.4
XM20K 270 250 253 2.16 2.41 1.1 125.0
CV15K 243 250 252 2.16 2.22 1.0 112.5
PFO13K 206 251 252 2.16 2.19 0.8 95.4

 

[TropTrea]

I personaly thing this data is extremly usefull if your tryying to conserve energy and meet the needs of your corals at the same time. For a quick example if your set up requires PAR around 1800 total look at the extreme differences.

XM10K, 3 bulbs = 1878PAR, @249Watts *3 bulbs = 747 Watts.

PFO13K 9 Bulbs = 1854 PAR, @ 251 Watts *9 Bulbs = 2,259 Watts. (If you could even fit 9 bulbs under your tank)

Look at the difference here the XM10K are more than 3 times as effecient as fat as producing PAR light. Now it is true that many may require the addition of more 460nm and 420 nm bulbs with the XM to get there visual spectrum where thay like it however with a 1,500 watts saved you caqn add a lot of suplemental lighting.

Dennis

 

[Bergovoy]

My chart did nto come out liek I wanted to, and thought I deleted it until I could figure out how to reformat the text. But basically I just used excel to get a par per watt and a par per amp number to see efficiency. although, efficiency may only play a small role in selection of lamps and ballasts as we all know personal preference and livestock needs are paramount...

But I did notice that some of the numbers were surprising in that the range of Par produced per watts ranges from 2 to less then 1

That is quite a range.


bill

 

[bleedingthought]

So, no pictures of the XM 15000K still?

 

[TropTrea]

One other thing you will also notice is that the Color Temperature of the bulbs are almost always inversly proportionate to the Par produced by the bulb. This is one of the reasons it surprises me that so many people are using 20,000K bulbs as the primary light source.

In my mind go with the highest par value per watt for your main light then suplement it with Actinics or Blues to balance it out to your personal choice in eye candy. Yes you will need some atinics but look at money you save with higher par/watt bulbs.

Dennis

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8952339#post8952339 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Bergovoy
My chart did nto come out liek I wanted to, and thought I deleted it until I could figure out how to reformat the text. But basically I just used excel to get a par per watt and a par per amp number to see efficiency. although, efficiency may only play a small role in selection of lamps and ballasts as we all know personal preference and livestock needs are paramount...

But I did notice that some of the numbers were surprising in that the range of Par produced per watts ranges from 2 to less then 1

That is quite a range.


bill

 

[bleedingthought]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9042592#post9042592 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TropTrea
One other thing you will also notice is that the Color Temperature of the bulbs are almost always inversly proportionate to the Par produced by the bulb. This is one of the reasons it surprises me that so many people are using 20,000K bulbs as the primary light source.

In my mind go with the highest par value per watt for your main light then suplement it with Actinics or Blues to balance it out to your personal choice in eye candy. Yes you will need some atinics but look at money you save with higher par/watt bulbs.

Dennis

What about tanks with pendants and no room for actinics, though? A 400W 20,000K bulb will still give you enough PAR to have a tank thriving and still looking good without actinics. (Although that varies with each person) Don't you think?

 

[TropTrea]

What size tank are we talking here? If it is too small the 440W will realy start generating heat to the point you won't be able do much about it. Perhaps a different route in lighting would work out much better for you like going with all T'5s

This reminds me of an individual that wanted a live plant fresh water tank which had an 18" square base and was 36" tall. (roughly 50 gallons)

Dennis

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9043514#post9043514 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bleedingthought
What about tanks with pendants and no room for actinics, though? A 400W 20,000K bulb will still give you enough PAR to have a tank thriving and still looking good without actinics. (Although that varies with each person) Don't you think?

 

[bleedingthought]

We're talking a 50G tank (36"x18"x18"tall) tied into a 75G reef (25G fuge and 29G sump - total water volume of 160G). The 400W would be a pendant on the open top 50G with a good reflector (probably a mini lumenarc) and about 16" away from the water.

 

[fishtk75]

Anything new as problems with any companies bulbs/

Anything new as problems with any companies bulbs/

Read over the posts and that any thing changed or updates on tests of bulbs?

Asking as 10k , 12k ,15k
I read 20k not so bright .
Changing bulb time for me and looking what Kelvin and brands worked for you as growing corals worked out better and how long before you seen you had to change it again?

 

[TropTrea]

Well my recommendation is to initially start out with the highest possible PAR for your system. If your tank is only 18" tall then a 400 watt bulb is definatly overkill., so go with a good 250 Watt bulb.

Now after your PAR is up there the next thing is add blue and atinic power. This si something determined by the individual personal taste in lighting. However some needs to used in order to bring out the florsescense in some of the corals.

Dennis

 

[rob020880]

What would be the best 250 de mh? Any thoughts? Im supplementing with actinic and blue+ t5 ho.

 

[fishtk75]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9184503#post9184503 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TropTrea
Well my recommendation is to initially start out with the highest possible PAR for your system. If your tank is only 18" tall then a 400 watt bulb is definatly overkill., so go with a good 250 Watt bulb.

Now after your PAR is up there the next thing is add blue and atinic power. This si something determined by the individual personal taste in lighting. However some needs to used in order to bring out the florsescense in some of the corals.

Dennis

Dennis,
Iwill look for up the Par is there as I see the list on that test link of all differant pars between the brands.
Now if the I see for say 500 par bulb and the bulb I have is 300par will higher pars make the bulb not last and burn out faster?
Also bluer bulbs work better then white bulbs in real life experience.

 

[TropTrea]

By going to a higher par in 95% of instances you will simply be increasing the growth rate of your corals. However in the other 5% of corals they may be llow light requiring corals and therefore could create negative results initially. However in the long run even those low light corals will improve as they become adapted top the stronger light.

Bluer bulbs do have a tendency to show better color in some corals. This is because there are many florescent pigments in corals and basicly these florescent pigments absorb shorter wave lenghts and emit longer wave lenghts. This is whay a balance is required which many people forget about.

So in all reality PAR effects growth the most, Short Wavelenghts (blue light) increases florescense, and balance between the two is what pleases the eye. Also keeping in mind that no two people have the same eye or preference in color.

Dennis

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9187990#post9187990 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fishtk75
Dennis,
Iwill look for up the Par is there as I see the list on that test link of all differant pars between the brands.
Now if the I see for say 500 par bulb and the bulb I have is 300par will higher pars make the bulb not last and burn out faster?
Also bluer bulbs work better then white bulbs in real life experience.

 

[fishtk75]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9188390#post9188390 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TropTrea
By going to a higher par in 95% of instances you will simply be increasing the growth rate of your corals. However in the other 5% of corals they may be llow light requiring corals and therefore could create negative results initially. However in the long run even those low light corals will improve as they become adapted top the stronger light.

Bluer bulbs do have a tendency to show better color in some corals. This is because there are many florescent pigments in corals and basicly these florescent pigments absorb shorter wave lenghts and emit longer wave lenghts. This is whay a balance is required which many people forget about.

So in all reality PAR effects growth the most, Short Wavelenghts (blue light) increases florescense, and balance between the two is what pleases the eye. Also keeping in mind that no two people have the same eye or preference in color.




Dennis

Dennis,
thanks
no not looking for eye or preference in color.
I am looking for the best bulb for growth in the long run as you said for balance.
As balance that is what I need to know as balance is for say a 12k,14k, or 15kbulb.which bulb make that balance.

 

[fishtk75]

Also is there anything special when you have a new lamps that has more PAR as too much at one some thing will burn with UV.

 

[TropTrea]

In 99% of the cases if your top priority is growth then go with a 10,000K bulb if you not using atinics to wuplement. If your suplementing with atinics then the 6,500K or 10,000K giving you the highest par is way to go.

The higher Color Temp bulbs are generaly more for color than growth and the higher the K the less the PAR will be.

As far as the increase in PAr effecting the corals. Yes it can however this is usualy only short term. If you measured the Sun light on the reefs themselves you will find that your not even comming close to what our sun is producing in nature.

Now as far as UV burn. Yes there is such a thing however as long as your using SE Hides, or DE hides with a filter then the deadly UV rays should be filtered out. The ony times where you may have a problem there is when your running a DE bulb without a filter. Note almost any peice of clear glass is enough to filter out the deadly UV rays.

Dennis

 

[fishtk75]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9195200#post9195200 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TropTrea
In 99% of the cases if your top priority is growth then go with a 10,000K bulb if you not using atinics to wuplement. If your suplementing with atinics then the 6,500K or 10,000K giving you the highest par is way to go.

The higher Color Temp bulbs are generaly more for color than growth and the higher the K the less the PAR will be.

As far as the increase in PAr effecting the corals. Yes it can however this is usualy only short term. If you measured the Sun light on the reefs themselves you will find that your not even comming close to what our sun is producing in nature.

Now as far as UV burn. Yes there is such a thing however as long as your using SE Hides, or DE hides with a filter then the deadly UV rays should be filtered out. The ony times where you may have a problem there is when your running a DE bulb without a filter. Note almost any peice of clear glass is enough to filter out the deadly UV rays.

Dennis

Dennis
Thank you for being patient with me.
This is all new for me and like to know things so I do not look dum when I ask questions.
Alot of you have alot of time in this hobby and thing change with new products coming out.

 

[kfowler]

tag

 

[trueperc]

Just wondering, I have not seen any data or par values for the 250 Venture 5500K bulbs. Can't seem to find it anywhere. M LFS Has a 90 gal with 2 175 5500k ventures and 440 of VHO, I know you need a ton of vho to loose the yellow, but honestly the colors and the growth out of this tank is amazing. They swear buy them still. Anybody know any specs on them ?

 

[dukes707]

jb ny,
when you tested the CV bulbs are the 10k and 12k the reeflux bulbs or the standard CV. if not the reeflux's will you be testing them anytime soon? thanks

-dukes707