250w DE BULB FEEDBACK "POLL"

250w DE BULB FEEDBACK "POLL"

  • 250w DE Ushio UHI Metal Halide HQI Double Ended 14K

    Votes: 1 3.7%
  • 250w DE Hamilton HQI 14,000k

    Votes: 5 18.5%
  • 250w DE Giesemann Megachrome Coral 14.5k HQI

    Votes: 8 29.6%
  • 250w DE XM XDE HQI 15,000k

    Votes: 1 3.7%
  • 250w DE Ushio UHI Metal Halide HQI 20K Blue

    Votes: 3 11.1%
  • 250w DE XM XDE HQI 20,000k

    Votes: 2 7.4%
  • 250w DE Giesemann Megachrome Blue 22k HQI

    Votes: 1 3.7%
  • 250w DE Radium 20,000K HQI

    Votes: 6 22.2%

  • Total voters
    27
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10446498#post10446498 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Nuuze
Hmmm, that's going to be a difficult one for me too when it comes time to replace bulbs! :)

So for 250w from looking Sanjay's site the XM 10k has the highest par of 95. What is average par for SPS that is not too much light?

I would like to go to a bluer bulb than 10k but afraid of loosing par.

If yoo look some more I think you will find that there are higher par bulbs than the XM 10000K. For 10000K and up, check the Giesemann and the Aqualine Buschke. They are among the highest I believe.

Lighting is alot more complicated than Par alone. I'm not an expert but the reflector, the ballast, the bulb and the installation of it all is atleast as important than the bulb choice. A bulb with a Par of 70 with a good reflector may very well kick the butt of a bulb with a par of 100 in a crappy reflector in terms of uniform light coverage. Yeah, the 100 PPFD bulb is brighter in the hot spot but with the poor reflector it may not come close to the lower par bulb in terms of distributing light throughout the tank.
 
That's where I run into a little confusion.

The ballasts I am using is the ACLS ballasts from Sfiligoi so I guessed on comparing it to IC since both are electronic.

My light fixture is the Sfiligoi XR4 with lumenarc like reflectors.

So I wouldn't mind going to a bluer bulb like the Helios but want the growth of a 10k. But 10k will be fine also since I have 4-54w T5 actinics. Also I noticed price jumps on some brands too.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10446324#post10446324 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rogergolf66
why don't you leave your attinics on during the day when your MH are on? That would help give you more pop (blue)

Roger

they made no difference now that I have the phoenix 14k, my crappy actinics are "ACTINIC BLUE" and i get the same color with and without them, so im patiently waiting for a set of 4 True Actinic 03 420nm, that was going to arrive FRIDAY :( , and still has not arrived. that is my only hope...

also i decied to turn off the actinics "the crappyones" because it made no diference, except I was running 220w more electricity, just for nothing :hmm5:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10447013#post10447013 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Nuuze
That's where I run into a little confusion.

The ballasts I am using is the ACLS ballasts from Sfiligoi so I guessed on comparing it to IC since both are electronic.

My light fixture is the Sfiligoi XR4 with lumenarc like reflectors.

So I wouldn't mind going to a bluer bulb like the Helios but want the growth of a 10k. But 10k will be fine also since I have 4-54w T5 actinics. Also I noticed price jumps on some brands too.

That makes sense, on eballasts those Geisemann and AB's would drop in par. And they are pricey.

You have 4 T5's so you should have plenty of light no matter what Halides you choose. I would be inclined to pick a halide based on color instead of looking for the highest par bulb.
You are in a good situation with the 4 T5's so you shouldnt need the highest par bulb you can find. I found that its much easier to get a look to the tank that I liked by using a bulb with a slightly blue (or actinic) tint. I was running 4 T5's and two 250 watt DE's and could get just about any thing I wanted with something like a Reeflux (10K or 12K) with a bit of a blue tint. It wasnt nearly as easy (and I was limited) with a bulb that had no blue at all or a tinge of yellow. And ... You can still find some good par in some of the white bulbs with just a hint of blue. Like the Reeflux 10000K or the IceCap 10000K (if IceCap has gotten them distributed yet). But then again, everyones idea of enough blue is different.

I switched reflectors to Lumenmax and lost two T5's because of the width of the reflectors. I put the 2 T5's on IceCap 660 but it's not like having 4 T5's. It was nice to have the flexibility for color of those extra 2 T5's. I can still blue up the halides easy enough with the 2 overdriven T5's but dont quite have the subtle color options. Like I said, just my opinion but I would be looking for a bulb with decent par going for color more than screaming output. Your 4 T5's should allow you to do that easily. Plus, the pcitures I have seen of your tanks with the lighting ... it looks like you have more than enough light. Maybe it's the pictures but your tank looks super bright.
 
Darg,

What T5 combo did you use when you were running 4 and what halide? I am currently running Sylvania Coral Star T5's that came with my fixture but heard the are dull compared to others. Seems a lot are using ATI Blue plus and UVL actinic combo.
 
When I ran Iwasaki 150 watt DE 50000K's I used 2 UVL Super Actinic, 1 ATI Blue + and 1 Geisemann Aquablue special.

With Reeflux DE 10000K 250 watt It was 2 Super Actinic and 2 Blue plus.

Same combo with IceCap 250 watt DE 10000K and with Aqualine 10000 150 watt DE

Right now I am running 2 Reeflux 12000K 250 watt with 1 UVL Super actinic and 1 ATI Blue + ... The T5's are on IceCap 660. They were on standard HO ballasts when I ran 4.
The Reeflux 12000K's still arent broken in yet so it may change.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10448599#post10448599 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DarG
When I ran Iwasaki 150 watt DE 50000K's I used 2 UVL Super Actinic, 1 ATI Blue + and 1 Geisemann Aquablue special.

With Reeflux DE 10000K 250 watt It was 2 Super Actinic and 2 Blue plus.

Same combo with IceCap 250 watt DE 10000K and with Aqualine 10000 150 watt DE

Right now I am running 2 Reeflux 12000K 250 watt with 1 UVL Super actinic and 1 ATI Blue + ... The T5's are on IceCap 660. They were on standard HO ballasts when I ran 4.
The Reeflux 12000K's still arent broken in yet so it may change.


Iwasaki makes a 50k? how blue is that, and if so why so much actinic supplementation?
 
Do you think I should use 2 UVL Super Actinic, 1 ATI Blue + and 1 Geisemann Aquablue combo along with 10k's? Reason why I'm thinking of using the Geisemann Aquablue combo is because on some hot days I do not use the halide and some days I have the usual actinic - halide - actinic photoperiod but with no actinics while the halides are on.
 
LOL! :) Who knows, just like how none of the 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 20 k's with the same numbers look alike! :D
 
I may be new to this and all but I like my Hamilton's of course I'm using the DE's but I like the color. Makes everything pretty, I'm even thinking of just going without my VHO's or maybe switching them over to T5's. I don't know yet. I'm still new so I'm still learning but I do like color and the colors in my tank right now are very bright and pretty.
 
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