If you bought a used MP10, make sure you have a spacer (or thick enough glass). I bought my first MP10 used, but it didn't include a spacer, and as I ran it on my thin glass biocube, it definitely started burning out the bearing making it squeak and squeal very loudly, until it ultimately seized (and I haven't been able to repair it yet). So yea, just a heads up on pre-owned vortechs.
27 Gallon Cube Build
- Thread starter pelphrey
- Start date
pelphrey
New member
I appreciate your feedback! The person I bought it from has a number of great seller reviews and for whats its worth mentioned that if I get it and it has any issues they will take it back. We'll see if that still stands. I'll be sure to look into the spacer for sure! Thanks again!
pelphrey
New member
After water testing the 5.5 gallon tank it will suffice for my sump. It will house my skimmer, return pump and heater perfectly and more importantly handle the backflow from the display. Going this route over buying a sump saved my over $100. 5.5 gallon tank - $20, Glass - $9, ASI Silicone $9. Also going this route will allow me to keep half of the interior of the cabinet free for other items that will need to be housed later.
Ignore the awful silicone job! It is difficult to work inside of such a small tank, not to mention my glass cutting skills need work. The big chamber will hold my skimmer and most likely some type of floss. I built a small chamber for my return pump. My drain will run into the skimmer section and my emergency drain will run into my return section.
I can't take full credit on this build as I've followed multiple builds. There is a guy on Youtube ( Cj's Aquariums ) who once had a cube, so I am basically following his build. With this being my first build I wanted to ensure I did this all correctly to ensure success and allow me to build a bigger tank one day. Also with such a small foot print there has been and will continue to be times I doubt myself.
It's worth noting that in a previous post I mentioned I will be running the Kessil A160 and controller. I also picked up a A150 that I'll either use to supplement this tank or possibly for a nano tank in my office at work.
It doesn't have to be pretty to function!
Ignore the awful silicone job! It is difficult to work inside of such a small tank, not to mention my glass cutting skills need work. The big chamber will hold my skimmer and most likely some type of floss. I built a small chamber for my return pump. My drain will run into the skimmer section and my emergency drain will run into my return section.
I can't take full credit on this build as I've followed multiple builds. There is a guy on Youtube ( Cj's Aquariums ) who once had a cube, so I am basically following his build. With this being my first build I wanted to ensure I did this all correctly to ensure success and allow me to build a bigger tank one day. Also with such a small foot print there has been and will continue to be times I doubt myself.
It's worth noting that in a previous post I mentioned I will be running the Kessil A160 and controller. I also picked up a A150 that I'll either use to supplement this tank or possibly for a nano tank in my office at work.
It doesn't have to be pretty to function!
homer1475
New member
Curious as to how that sump is setup?
The one little chamber for the skimmer?, and the rest? Don't think I've seen a sump setup in that manner, there is usually some type of baffles(typically an over, under, over) as bubble traps going into the return section.
I will admit I don't have a sump or have never set one up, I'm just curious as to why you have yours setup like you do.
The one little chamber for the skimmer?, and the rest? Don't think I've seen a sump setup in that manner, there is usually some type of baffles(typically an over, under, over) as bubble traps going into the return section.
I will admit I don't have a sump or have never set one up, I'm just curious as to why you have yours setup like you do.
pelphrey
New member
The smallest chamber is for the return pump. The skimmer will be going in the half that is the length of the tank. I won't need a bubble trap as my return will be ran with a full syphon (herbie drain). The return line will be well below the water line, it should create any air bubbles. I could have bought a cube sump but I would have spent a ton of money number one, second it would have taken up the entire interior of the stand. This 5.5 gallon takes up half and the biggest thing is I can pull it out without having to take the display off the stand.
pelphrey
New member
It's almost go time! I still need to make about 10 more gallons of water and get my salt mixed. Also still need to rinse my rock off and get it in the tank. After that I'll be ready to add ammonia and get this party started!
Evil Marco sand! I washed this stuff for easily an hour or more and thought I got it pretty clean.
Heater in the display is temporary until I get one to put in my small sump-
My battery backup. Need to still work on wire management and label everything!
Bought some rubber matting from home depot and cut it to fit. All 4 corners have a lip that will hold a few inches of water, just in case!
Skimmer will go in once I start and complete the cycle -
Kessil controller and MP10 controller mounted to the inside of the door for easy access-
Evil Marco sand! I washed this stuff for easily an hour or more and thought I got it pretty clean.
Heater in the display is temporary until I get one to put in my small sump-
My battery backup. Need to still work on wire management and label everything!
Bought some rubber matting from home depot and cut it to fit. All 4 corners have a lip that will hold a few inches of water, just in case!
Skimmer will go in once I start and complete the cycle -
Kessil controller and MP10 controller mounted to the inside of the door for easy access-
tjohnson27209
New member
Sweet setup....looks clean and very well thought out. I like it!!
codyreed29
New member
mcginnisandrew
New member
Looks great!
pelphrey
New member
The cube has been setup for a few weeks now and running perfectly! The cycle is moving forward and my nitrites are starting to build! Before the progress went any further I wanted to replace my sump. I liked the 5.5 gallon sump as it left half of the cabinet free, but I knew I wanted more security. My skimmer requires 8'' of water so with the 5.5 gallon sump I was on a very fine line and knew I wouldn't be able to forget topping the tank off. For now I'll be topping it off manually, but soon that will change!
I searched the web and found a pretty good deal on the eshopps nano cube refugium so I picked it up! I really like this sump so far and it fits in my stand perfectly through the front door. As of right now the fug won't be used for anything except my heater.
The sump comes with a bulk head installed, I took the bulk head out and have a few options. In order for my drain to work as I want/need it to I'll either need to use two 90 degree elbows or I can cut the platform that held the bulk head on. If I cut it I can run two 45's instead of the 90's. Let me know if you have any opinions or suggestions!
The black line is the main (siphon) drain, the red is my emergency drain. The emergency drain is routed into the return chamber to ensure the pump doesn't run dry. Although with the new sump and the higher water level this shouldn't be an issue. You can also see in the picture my main drain is in the hole I want/need to modify. As it is right now I am unable to remove this drain without titling the sump forward.
Initially I've used my API freshwater test kit to keep track of my cycle. Last week I picked up the RedSea test kit for comparison and to verify that my test have been accurate. All along both tests have been consistent and read the same results.
I searched the web and found a pretty good deal on the eshopps nano cube refugium so I picked it up! I really like this sump so far and it fits in my stand perfectly through the front door. As of right now the fug won't be used for anything except my heater.
The sump comes with a bulk head installed, I took the bulk head out and have a few options. In order for my drain to work as I want/need it to I'll either need to use two 90 degree elbows or I can cut the platform that held the bulk head on. If I cut it I can run two 45's instead of the 90's. Let me know if you have any opinions or suggestions!
The black line is the main (siphon) drain, the red is my emergency drain. The emergency drain is routed into the return chamber to ensure the pump doesn't run dry. Although with the new sump and the higher water level this shouldn't be an issue. You can also see in the picture my main drain is in the hole I want/need to modify. As it is right now I am unable to remove this drain without titling the sump forward.
Initially I've used my API freshwater test kit to keep track of my cycle. Last week I picked up the RedSea test kit for comparison and to verify that my test have been accurate. All along both tests have been consistent and read the same results.
Flyboy450r
New member
Been following your thread since you started it, the tank looks great you're doing a good job with it. What's your plan with it? I have an identical tank I started a month before you and I've been really pleased with how it's turned out. I set mine up strictly as a clown/anenome tank so nothing to fancy on my end
pelphrey
New member
Thank you! Currently I don't really have a game plan. I don't have any LFS near me so I'll have to take a road trip to purchase and fish or corals. My other option is buying off the internet. I don't mind buying off the internet but I work Mon-Fri so arranging times to be home is somewhat difficult to receive packages.
pelphrey
New member
There is where I stand with my cycle. Should I continue to add ammonia to the tank or will that prolong the cycling process? I started the cycle on October 25th. Any input is appreciated!
This is my first experience cycling a reef and using this test kit. Overall I am very satisfied with the results and how easy the Red Sea test kits are to use. I highly recommend!
This is my first experience cycling a reef and using this test kit. Overall I am very satisfied with the results and how easy the Red Sea test kits are to use. I highly recommend!
pelphrey
New member
I do have a rather big complaint about the eshopps cube sump. It is a complaint I've seen a handful of times.... The white acrylic is a nice look, but not being able to see my return section is rather annoying. In order for me to view this chamber I have to get on the ground and use a flash light. This is the only chamber that really fluctuates as far as water level. I'll have to get a mirror and put it in my stand to monitor my water level. Which leads me to the next topic. When I finally pull the trigger on a ATO I'll have to somehow get the sensor in the return chamber which will also be painful.
I did remove all of the mechanical filtration from the sump. I was 50/50 on the filter sock to begin with, so I decided to pull it for now.
I did remove all of the mechanical filtration from the sump. I was 50/50 on the filter sock to begin with, so I decided to pull it for now.
I would stop adding ammonia. I know many people these days advocate to keep adding until the ammonia gets fully processed out within 24 hours, but my rule has always been just getting nitrates to rise is good enough, since the hard part will be getting these nutrients out of the system before the algae explosion.
As far as the sump, can you put a light behind the sump, or down on the sump? Is there any transparency to the white acrylic, or is solid? If it's semi-transparent, the backlight would help to see the water level through the acrylic. If it's totally opaque then you might be hosed.
The nice thing about a lot of the ATOs is that they come with magnetic mounts so that it's pretty easy to stick them in difficult to access places.
As far as the sump, can you put a light behind the sump, or down on the sump? Is there any transparency to the white acrylic, or is solid? If it's semi-transparent, the backlight would help to see the water level through the acrylic. If it's totally opaque then you might be hosed.
The nice thing about a lot of the ATOs is that they come with magnetic mounts so that it's pretty easy to stick them in difficult to access places.
