280G+ Starphire In-Wall Build by ReefArtist

This is a great morning!!!! I found my Stonogobiops yasha (Shrimp Goby - his name is Sushi). He has been living in my refugium for the last two months! I looked everywhere for him including the sump and refugium. Well about two weeks ago I removed about 70 percent of my microalge (it was firmly packed in my refuguim) to add to my 280g refugium. This morning the door to my stand under the 65g was slightly open and something caught my eye - moved fast. So I just waited and watched to see if it came out again. It did and it was my long lost beautiful goby! I have no idea how he got in that compartment - I only have the ball valve open - not even 1/4 because it causes bubbles. This is a great morning :D :D :D!!!!

Stonogobiops_yashia6Sushi.JPG
 
Thanks for the info the the bluegaurd foam.
Does the foam hit the bottom pane of glass?
Or is it just sitting on the black plastic trim?

AGA is thinking of giving a refund back & was leaning on getting an acrylic tank, since the big disaster did not sit will with the wifey.
 
jrcastro -
All you do is just slide the tank on it and for me only the rim is actually sitting on the foam. I would think after a few years it would settle and maybe touch the bottom glass. That would be very nice if AGA refunded your purchase - it's very hard to get any builder to do anything at times.

Chris -
Thanks for the information. I think I'll go ahead and put a dab of Weldon 16 on the top and bottom - just to make sure. I got the Weldon 2007 from AmericanPlastics and the guy I talked to said you want to take the hardest material to get to bond and then work from that. He figured PVC is a very hard plastic to bond to so use a glue made for PVC. That said - I think I'll take your advice and add the Weldon 16 just to be safe - then I'll be doing a presser test just to make sure :).
 
rjohnsen - Tell Pauley - thank you :D

Hawk'ster - Yes, can you believe it! Now I'm not sure if I should mess with him. Should I take him out and put him through that stress or just leave him in there for two weeks longer? It is so cool - poor little guy! I must say he looked fat and health - must be the bottles of pods I've been putting in the refugium :D. I open the door and he takes off into the microalgae - nice cover.
 
I think I'll only use the Weldon 16 (all ready have) on the actual reactor body. It appears it's the product of choice for this application - thanks Chris for bring this up. I like it better as it is much thicker, I then feel like I'm adding something that will actually stick!
 
no problem carol,you have spent too much time to let something like a stupid glue joint mess things up.i figure the link can be usefull to alot of people who have been reading this thread.
 
Well I got my light rack 95% finished, I just need to add the top bar that will hold the rack to the sliders. I need to first purchase the one flat piece and it will be finished.
LightRack2.JPG

The front will have two T5's and the back only 1. I'm hoping this will help bring depth to the design.
 
These are the reflectors I'm building. I have two finished so just one more to go.

003_Build.JPG

Here I cut the pattern out of the aluminum.

006_Build.JPG

Cut the holes for the mogul

006a_Build.JPG

Drilled all the holes for the rivets and using the bending tool, bent all the sides and top tabs.

010_Build.JPG

Then I just started putting them together.

Reflector.JPG

Finished reflector - without bracket.

ReflectorInside.JPG

Inside the reflector - SWEET!

Finished_Reflector2.JPG

Reflector finished with bracket, nice,cheap and has great reflective properties.

 
Robin :D - LOL. We use these:
MetalShearStCuts.JPG


They aren't the best but really haven't had any problems. I purshased electric cutting shears and have yet to use them. I tried the air pressured ones and they didn't work at all. I'll have to get the electric shears out and give them a try.
 
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Oh - Okay I did do that - LOL, I just used my old 10" miter saw - remember that old one we used for my stand? I put a metal blade on it - it cuts it but kind of melt/cut. Aluminum is so soft it makes it very hard to cut without a special blade. The $5 blades work good you just have to file it after cutting.

AudioAdict - Thanks we have lots of fun around my house, never a moment goes by that we aren't design/building or just trying to make something just a little better. You need to get some lights over that 40g tank of yours - LOL!
 
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did you peel the plastic after it was built or some before? I have the top rivited already, just have to finish the rest.
 
jay24k - What I do is peel back the edges that will be riveted together, that way when you have to peel it off - you can :). If you look at the photo above - the "Inside the reflector" view, you can see how I peel them back. The top of the side panels and for the wings all most all. Hope this helps and good luck with your reflector build.
 
rogergolf66 - Here's my lighting layout for all the tanks:

280G Display:
The MH ballast are 250W IceCap and my bulbs are:
Right side - 250W Ushio 10K
Center - 250W AquaConnect 14K
Left side - 250W Ushio 10K

Supplemental Lighting:
Ballast: IceCap 660 (15’ of bulbs) 4.4 amps
Front T5’s (2)
Bulbs: KZ Fiji Purple 80W (5 ft)
Bulbs: KZ Coral Light 80W (5 ft)

Back T5 (1)
Bulbs: ATI Actinic+ 80W (5 ft)

Sea Horse Tank:
All T5’s
Bulbs: (1 - 22") UV Super Actinic 12,000 Kelvin Temp (50% Actinic 03 and 50% Tri Band phosphos)
(100% blue spectrum â€"œ peaks at 420nm â€"œ Blue chlorophyll absorption Life 4500 hrs)
Bulbs: (1 - 22") UV Aquasun 12,000 Kelvin Temp (50% Actinic 03 and 50% Tri Band phosphos)
(100% blue spectrum â€"œ peaks at 420nm â€"œ Blue chlorophyll absorption Life 4500 hrs)

Ballast: IceCap 660 - 4.4 amps with 4’ of bulbs for Sea Horse Tank and 6’ of bulbs for Frag tank

Frag Tank
All T5’s
Bulbs: UV Super Actinic 39W (3 ft)
Bulbs: ATI Blue + 39W (3 ft)
Ballast: IceCap 660 See above (sea horse and Frag Tanks combined)
SPS Frag Tank
Part of the T5’s (above)
150 MH from fixture

Infinity Tank
All T5’s
2 - 39W 10000K AquaSun T5 HO Fluorescent
1 - 39W Super Actinic T5 HO Fluorescent
1 - 39W Super Actinic Blue 03 T5 HO Fluorescent
Ballast: Tek 36” T5 Fixture with ballast

Hope is helps :).
 
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