280G+ Starphire In-Wall Build by ReefArtist
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ReefArtist
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Nice - blue would be a lot nicer then that bright white they have in my area. How wide were you able to get it in? I'd love to get it in one piece but 36" might be tough.
Things are going fast now but once I get this baby on the stand things will slow way down. I can't believe I'll have the tank on the 14th! I don't want the tank sitting on the floor - that's the reason for the quick building. This however will allow me to put all the walls up for the fish room. I did find an old outlet for cable in the wall - might need to have a small TV in my new room
. All the conforts of home!
Things are going fast now but once I get this baby on the stand things will slow way down. I can't believe I'll have the tank on the 14th! I don't want the tank sitting on the floor - that's the reason for the quick building. This however will allow me to put all the walls up for the fish room. I did find an old outlet for cable in the wall - might need to have a small TV in my new room
. All the conforts of home!
ReefArtist
In Memoriam
Thanks RocketEngineer for the information on the stand build. I'm going to reinforce the stand legs with 2x4's on the garage side. This will allow me to still use this area for storage mainly salt. As long as the 2x4's will do the job - I'll go with them. With this being a built-in and having cabinets between the legs - it shouldn't go anywhere - but that is a lot of water! Thanks again.
ReefArtist
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Oh - very cool! If I can't find it around here, I'll hit the Brandon store. Thanks Mike - did you get your light frame finished?
acropora nut
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ReefArtist I just PM you Mike.....
ReefArtist
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Nice talking to you last night Mike - I love your tank - everyone here's a beautiful tank - a must see:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1148987
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1148987
ReefArtist
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I have a question about protein skimmers. I'm thinking about purchasing the new Sequence Skimmer the skimmer is equivalent to the Royal-Exclusive Bubble King skimmers. It sounds like a great skimmer and will fit my needs and then some. What I want to know is what are your feelings on gravity feed verses pump feed. I was talking to Joe (poknsnok) about this and he thinks it's a great idea- one less pump and I agree. I've talked to some people about the skimmer and it will operate either way. Is there any disadvantages of the gravity feed system?
After talking to Joe - the plan would be to have a Tee at the input to the skimmer - one going into the skimmer and the other as an overflow that would go directly into the sump. Any other ideas on this?
After talking to Joe - the plan would be to have a Tee at the input to the skimmer - one going into the skimmer and the other as an overflow that would go directly into the sump. Any other ideas on this?
It may be too late for this or it may have been addressed in another manner. To my eyes, the lateral bracing seems absent. I did see the suggestion to add 2 x 4's for connections between the legs in conjunction with "L" brackets, but all too often, it is so very easy to allow 2 x X construction to get slightly out of plumb or square. Plywood is an another ideal solution as long as two "factory edges" are attached to outside planes.
What I mean is that I would not trust the surrounding elements to correct the side-to-side or front-to-back tendencies an out-of-plumb (or -square or -level) stand might have.
I would use screws to assemble the stand, for the additional piece of mind. It is a bit hard to tell from the diagrams and descriptions but I am guessing that the "notched to fit" means that a 1.5" section of the 4 x 6 will be removed, allowing the 2 x 6 to rest on the four corner legs. This seems very reasonable but I would go a step further and remove 2" from the 4 x 6 on both sides, allowing me room to "face" the 2 x 4 with .5" plywood, glued and screwed. That plywood could be cut to run down the 4 x 6 and then s&g'd to the 4 x 6 (6 - 12" past the bottom of the 2 x 6, necessitating removing .5" from the faces of the leg to allow a flush fit). The plywood is then incorporated into the stand without changing your proposed cut lengths.
Lastly, it appears from the diagram that the two 2 x 6's in the center are face-mounted to the 4 x 6's. It will be stronger to cut your two center legs down by 5.5" and make a header out of those two 2 x 6's. That allows the leg to carry the weight and not the item you use to attach the 2 x 6 to the leg.
I hope that helped but I fear it may have confused. If any of my response is unclear, I am happy to clarify. And I apologize for offering advice on a design that I may have mis-interpreted.
Best of luck with your build! Tagging along....
What I mean is that I would not trust the surrounding elements to correct the side-to-side or front-to-back tendencies an out-of-plumb (or -square or -level) stand might have.
I would use screws to assemble the stand, for the additional piece of mind. It is a bit hard to tell from the diagrams and descriptions but I am guessing that the "notched to fit" means that a 1.5" section of the 4 x 6 will be removed, allowing the 2 x 6 to rest on the four corner legs. This seems very reasonable but I would go a step further and remove 2" from the 4 x 6 on both sides, allowing me room to "face" the 2 x 4 with .5" plywood, glued and screwed. That plywood could be cut to run down the 4 x 6 and then s&g'd to the 4 x 6 (6 - 12" past the bottom of the 2 x 6, necessitating removing .5" from the faces of the leg to allow a flush fit). The plywood is then incorporated into the stand without changing your proposed cut lengths.
Lastly, it appears from the diagram that the two 2 x 6's in the center are face-mounted to the 4 x 6's. It will be stronger to cut your two center legs down by 5.5" and make a header out of those two 2 x 6's. That allows the leg to carry the weight and not the item you use to attach the 2 x 6 to the leg.
I hope that helped but I fear it may have confused. If any of my response is unclear, I am happy to clarify. And I apologize for offering advice on a design that I may have mis-interpreted.
Best of luck with your build! Tagging along....
The only consideration I would have is flow to the skimmer; what happens if...? The inside diameter of plumbing gets smaller with age and this will affect the flow to the skimmer. IME, this is one reason to use flexible PVC, as it can be more easily "cleaned" internally. weatherson documents this rather well on his site, weatherson.com.
I, too, am inclined to gravity-feed and if I do I will be sure to install either a grossly oversized drain line to minimize flow restriction or install flexible PVC, as I have now. My only hesitation is that it seems that gravity-fed skimmers could be more susceptible to flow irregularities.
ReefArtist
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Token - very good advice, I haven't started the stand or purchased the materials, so I have no problem revisiting the design. I'm always open to suggestions (I maybe an engineer but wood/plumbing is not my forte 
) I’m going to take a look at your suggestions and see if I can decipher â€"œ we’ll see what I come up with. Later today I’ll have a new design and we’ll see if it can withstand hurricanes .
) I’m going to take a look at your suggestions and see if I can decipher â€"œ we’ll see what I come up with. Later today I’ll have a new design and we’ll see if it can withstand hurricanes .
ReefArtist
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Also, something that I did not mention - I plan to use either screws or bolts to hold this stand together. I very seldom us nails for anything.
Something occurred to me as I read your reply; the grade change from garage to viewing will make a 2 x X at the bottom (to stop the splaying) all but impossible. Three-quarter plywood could be used on both ends, cut to the shape of the end (37" x 40", garage side; 37" x 34" viewing side). With this application, all you would need to do is shorten the other long-side horizontal members by 1.5".
In fact, the more I think about it, it's probably much easier too.
Good luck!
In fact, the more I think about it, it's probably much easier too.
Good luck!
ReefArtist
In Memoriam
Also this is going to be framed in not just open in my living room. Two bookshelves built in and connecting to the stand, with built in cabinets also connecting to the stand. To me this is not going anywhere but . . . I am looking at all angles of your message to be sure. My only thought is on the garage side but I can frame it out with 2x6's at the bottom and if need be frame it out - which as I think about it would look nice and finished.
My original plan was to sandwich plywood between the 2x6's - but I really didn't understand the reasoning for this and dismissed it. I'd noticed this in a number of builds - but they never really explained the why's. The 4x6's will be flush with the 2x6 and then bolted together.
Thanks for all your input!
My original plan was to sandwich plywood between the 2x6's - but I really didn't understand the reasoning for this and dismissed it. I'd noticed this in a number of builds - but they never really explained the why's. The 4x6's will be flush with the 2x6 and then bolted together.
Thanks for all your input!
I would tend to agree but where I don't is that the side walls of your bookcases may not provide anything to which to, securely or easily, attach your stand.
This works for me, if I understand it correctly.
Sandwiching, often, is just plain overkill but it can accomplish one nifty trick; when the plywood in application is .5", the finished "sandwich", typically referred to as a "header", is the dimension of the four inch side of a 2 x 4. Sandwiching plywood between two 2 x X's is a very effective method of re-inforcing the 2 x X for vertical stress; it helps prevent sagging. Plywood will flex but it won't sag on its face. (What happens, instead, is that the header can roll on one edge or the other; this is why something must be incorporated into the plan if a header is going to be used to span a very long run and the 2 x X is of minimal depth.)
IME, face application of plywood yields a better finished product. The bulk of the "leg" is much stronger yet thinner, won't sag (in general), and provides very straight edges to join. When used in conjunction with screws and an appropriate glue, one would be hard-pressed to find a more cost/time-effective DIY method.
You're most welcome! I will try to sketch something and link to it for a better visual.
ReefArtist
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Yes - it will be heavy and I do believe they do use 3/4" and yes it is starphire glass. I'm really hoping for that real clear look that I'm after, we'll see. I've figured from the time I start to the time I first get water flowing it will be around November/December time frame. I have a lot of local guys that want to help and that will definitely cut my time down. All the framing, finishing and glass art inserts that will be incorporated will be done by me and I'll be taking my time.
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