280G+ Starphire In-Wall Build by ReefArtist

:lol: Contact buzz, do you have an urge for munchies after Trigger :lol2:?

I think that was what I was thinking - removing the copper arsenate treatment. I'm going tomorrow morning to pick up some supplies and check what we have locally. I'm not sure if HD has non-PT 4x4's or 4x6 and if not - can't wait for the "Contact Buzz"! The walls (2x4's) I'll keep with the non-PT. Thanks for all the information.
 
Welcome - Snook65 and chrisqueenz, if you have any advice just let me know - new ideas are always welcome.

I'll post my wall plans later this evening - I hope everyone will take a look and let my know if I'm doing something wrong.

I'm just about ready to get some of the materials for this weeks projects.

This week I'd like to get the following finished:

Remove the old 2x4 wall studs and replace with new studs

I need to move the old AC return about 2 feet over - need to find out how to accomplish this.

Shop for new pocket door - I don't like the old one and it's in this wall so now is the time to do this.

Once the above is complete I can then add the insulation and install the HardiBacker boards.

It's going to be a fun week!
 
Today I was able to remove the old wall studs and get some of the new studs installed.

While the AC repair person was at my house (AC fan broke over the weekend) I asked about moving the air duct. I found out that it was not needed so I don't need to worry or reconfigured any of the AC - that was great news.

I shopped around but couldn't find any pocket doors I like so it will end up being custom made.

Here's a garage wall layout drawing and a few photo:
132223FishRoomGarageWallV1.gif


132223280Phase1StudsRemoved.JPG


132223280Phase1.JPG
 
Carol, how tall is the fish room going to be? Will it be below the garage door railing or will you be building a wall in place of the garage door?
 
NO1B4ME202 - yes you sure do, come over anytime.

boydx6 - I'm building it below the railing. The bottom of the rail is 7'4" from the garage floor and I measured it out today - looks like I'd have about 14- 16 inches from the top of my tank to the ceiling.

My garage floor is 6" below my living room floor so that's a little tricky with the stand. We'll get together and work on the stand together - once I get the plans we will be good to go!

This is really getting exciting!
 
I've revised my stand and I think this is the basic design I'd like to go with. I'm gaging on about 3500 lbs for the tank, water and rock - this is just a guess but should be within a few hundred lbs.

Think she'll hold?

132223Stand101.gif
 
Carol,

Could you post up your DIY calcium Reactor by any chance? I'm looking to build one as well - fairly soon here.
 
Yo Carol, looking great. Something to think about...some form of angle bracing from the legs to the top to prevent side to side or front to back movement.
Will the stand be attached to the studs in the wall/bookcase?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10220253#post10220253 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mflamb
Yo Carol, looking great. Something to think about...some form of angle bracing from the legs to the top to prevent side to side or front to back movement.
Will the stand be attached to the studs in the wall/bookcase?
Click to expand...

Great point espeically if you're going to go with a wavebox. The frequency of the wave will cause the weight of the tank to shift back and forth across the long axis of the tank so which could cause the stand supports to flex.
 
Whoa - I was thinking about putting some bracing on the floor around the perimeter like 2x4's but I need to figure out how to attach them (attach to concrete). It will be secured by the wall about mid way, I haven't been firm on the side viewing yet (12" or 18"?). The wave box is a big possibility so I do want to make it wave proof.

Also between the openings in the legs, I'm going to build cabinets (Display area) under the tank. What I could do in the front area is attach cabinets firmly to the stand legs (They will be about 24" deep). Do you think that would be secure enough.

Also do you think I should add another 2x6 in the center or would it just be a waste of good lumber? I'd rather over build than under, but not waste.

Thank you for the heads up!
 
Here is my design with my cabinets shown. One side of the cabinet will be directly attached to the stand, the other side I will see how much of a gap I have and fill it appropriately with wood then attach. Again on the garage side, I was just going to attach 2x4's at the bottom, unless you all feel I need more.

132223Stand101WithCabinets.gif

This gives more details of what I have planned in the future. Think this should stop the swaying?
 
I'm not sure on the engineering of the wood to provide the bracing. I just remember how my welder would not let me go without the bracing on my stand. I would think that on the fish room side of the stand you would be able to install enough bracing that combined with the "inwall" support, you would be ok.
 
I agree Mike. With the wall, book shelves, and cabinets under the stand it should not sway. With the addition of the wave box and as Triggerfish pointed out, I do need to ensure I build this into my design. The living room side isn't a problem (to me) at all, but like you said the fish room area I do need to brace for side to side movement. I would like to use this area a little for storage but if I can't it wouldn't be a big deal. I think once I get it in place the bracing will just happen (I need to visualize this) to come up with the best solution.
 
Hello everyone! I again rechecked GlassCages to ensure they still required the sheet of 3/4" Styrofoam. They do just surprised because I'd heard so much about it in other threads (Other manufacturers) getting away from it.

Mike is this what you used (Or anyone else that has a tank from GlassCages)? The normal Styrofoam from Home Depot/Lowes? I read that it must reach completely side-to-side and front-to-back and must be placed between the tank and the surface of the stand. I'm sure I will not find one solid piece that fits without having to put two together.
 
ReefArtist,

The stand you designed has spans of less then 36in in all directions so the 2X6 should be capable of holding up the weight of the tank nicely. However, you do need to prevent the legs from splaying out from under the tank. This can be accomplished by attaching the legs to a 2X4 or 2X6 running under the legs. If done correctly this will lock all six legs in relation to the others. A handful of "L" brackets between the legs and the top frame should keep the whole thing from turning into a parallelogram rather then being square. The idea with the bottom boards is to allow you to install cabinets on top of the bracing rather then fighting with it.
 
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