300 gallon rubbermaid tank (metal) Build and question thread

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FIJI Reefing

New member
My friend and I have decided to go widespread on growing coral for the sole reason of enjoying propagation of coral instead of getting wild specimens. He owns a buisness where space is of little concern. so I have some questions based onw hat we are getting into.

We grabbed a metal 300 gallon tank (8 feet long, about 3 wide by 2 1/2 tall) <--- very rough estimate except for length.

1) The buisness (aka warehouse) stays 69ish in the winter meaning that heating could be an issue. how much will this change having a stable reef tank open to air with 70 degree (maybe colder) air around it.

2) i plan on having 2 75 gallon glass tanks, 2 30 gallon glass, and the metal 300 gallon tank. Should each run separatly or should i hook them together, how should i go appart doing that?

3) can a metal 300 gallon frag tank be drilled by a professional welder and made to work. This was made for holding water so it is strong enough.

4) i have a huge euro-pro skimmer and im planning Lots of LR so is anything else needed outside a calcium Reactor.

5) What size tube should the return and overflow be to get the desired efficientcy needed.

6) can a tube just come to the surface and have an elbow out the side of the rubbermaid to just surface skim all the water to the sump.

7) any problems needing addressed i didnt think about?

8) I have 2 150 watt mh, 2 96 watt pc actinics and a 400 watt mh pendant. is this enough light for just the 300 gallon?

Please just help with annnny oppinion so that i can further consider this prodgect. Thanks in advance.
 
i dont think a metal tank will work very well. Saltwater and metal is not a good mix.

All the sunken ships at the bottom of the ocean are rusted.

You could coat the tank with something that will not corrode the metal.
 
i agree with you. I just talked to him today and the metal seems the best deminsions and strength by far...but if it was already made for holding water, does that mean rust free? what could we coat it with? standard non corrosive stuff at your local lowes?

Thanks for the quick response man
 
you could do what people do for Plywood tank builds.

They use fiberglass sheets and resin, but on metal? I dont know.

I think the tank was made to hold (fresh/ drinking) water not saltwater.
 
Not even the highest grade stainless steel is suitable for use in saltwater. The fact is that unless the tank is made of titanium (I highly doubt it), it will react with the saltwater and be a major issue.
 
how about trying to coat it with that foam pond liner that would create a water proof seal around the whole tank. could be a cool little feature for a more natural look.

Any other questions someone can help with?
 
what about that super thick pond liner......its like 70 or 80 bucks i think...maybe less it sure looks strong though i know i have seen it in peoples yards for custom ponds with rocks on them and all. good luck
 
What I would do is first have the whole thing professionally rhinoligned (the professional way that permanent truck bed liners are put in, NOT the do it yourself option.) Then I would use a pond liner.
 
the do it yourself is not nearly as high quality as the stuff they put on at the auto shop. The high quality bed liners are sprayed on liquid hot, makes for a very protective bond. The outside edges sides and bottom are what I would be worried about corroding. Splashing and dripping saltwater around the tank can become an issue down the road if using a DIY liner that doesn't bond well.
 
hmmm so there is no eay fix? what about that spray coat of some protective material. Or would a plastic 300 gallon rubbermaid be better even though its not 8 feet.

What do you guys think about the tempature thing?
 
I honestly wouldn't want to waist my time with a metal tank. Why not plumb together some 70 gallon rubbermaid troughs, they are shallow, would insulate the water better, not really much of a downside. Get a ranco controller with 1000 watts of titanium heating elements, no use putting the coral investment in the hands of some crappy glass heaters.
 
Well, i would try to achieve the bulk of your water movement with powerheads, as far as circulation through the system, anywhere between 800-1000 gph should work fine. 150 MH pendants above each 70 gallon rubbermaid with large reflectors should work out great.
 
trying to grow frags efficiently (talking energy cost) the more shallow the better, so 25 inches tall is NOT going to be what you are looking for. No offense, but you sound a little green to be taking on a project this size and trying to come out the other end actually making it worth your while. Why not go smaller, easier to maintain, easier water changes, less dosing.
 
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