300dd
- Thread starter ebacon
- Start date
Racinrevo0818
New member
It needs to have a second 2x4 or 2x6 that would basically screw to the outside of current legs. So there would be more then just screws.
Schplitter
New member
Here is how I did it.
1-Build your frame for the top and bottom however you want.
2-Cut all your verticals to the same exact length.
3-Attach them to the top and bottom.
Measure everything and make sure they are all the same height all over the place once everything is attached.
4-add some diagonal bracing.
This should ensure you have a flat and even stand. Once you have this done you can set it in place and level it with shims or whatever you want really.
Go on my build thread and check this out step by step.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2254326
Good luck!
BK
1-Build your frame for the top and bottom however you want.
2-Cut all your verticals to the same exact length.
3-Attach them to the top and bottom.
Measure everything and make sure they are all the same height all over the place once everything is attached.
4-add some diagonal bracing.
This should ensure you have a flat and even stand. Once you have this done you can set it in place and level it with shims or whatever you want really.
Go on my build thread and check this out step by step.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2254326
Good luck!
BK
Last edited:
smoothdog
Active member
The frame needs to sit directly on top of the legs at the corners. Like this:
DSC_1401.JPG by ksw2005, on Flickr
Using just the screws to support the top could lead to failure down the road, especially if the screw rust.
DSC_1401.JPG by ksw2005, on Flickr
Using just the screws to support the top could lead to failure down the road, especially if the screw rust.
Pife
Active member
Great read right here.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1567110&highlight=stand+calculator
Schplitter
New member
You could do that and then just add a 2x4 on the inside to hold everything together. I notched mine to save wood and space. The idea is to transfer the load straight to the ground without any "lag".
Schplitter
New member
Or add more 2x4's to the outside and under the horizontals.
mkart
Active member
I would do this for sure. You want the weight transferred directly to the vertical legs themselves, the screws should hold the wood together but not bear the weight of the tank. The top needs to be in better alignment. I would cherry pick better 2x4 or 2x6 lumber. You definitely need cross bracing, without it the stand will not be stable once the tank us on it.
VSpeck
Slash Smack Talker
I agree with what people are saying about put some cripplers outside of the current uprights. Also make sure they overlap opposite of the top frame. Everything should interlock and have a piece supporting it all the way to the floor. Also when I built 2by stands I left the inside legs a 1/2" short just incase it settles, it didn't put any pressure on the plywood or even worse the tank corners. Jmho
Mr D smack
Active member
When talking about wood, mkart and vspeck know there stuff :eek1:
Gives vspeck a chubby.
ebacon
Active member
Hind site 20/20 I should have left the inside of the legs shorter then the top of the frame. I'm thinking I'll just add a third 2x4 to the outside to support the horizontals. Then maybe use a sawzaw to trim an inch off the top of the inside leftover drop it below the frame.... I really don't want to take it all apart again.
Mr D smack
Active member
You may not want to take it apart again but then do you want to risk 300 gallons flooding your house? Something this size should be done right expecially the stand supporting all that weight
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