300g DD Planted Reef Hybrid

ConAquaSys

ConAquaSys

New member
Week 1
zCj8sCb.jpg


Just a teaser...

Short details:
Tank: 300g Deep Dimension Starphire (1 overflow removed)

Habitat: Liverock on lattice scaffolding; seams covered in expanding foam, marine epoxy, and aragonite/crushed coral mixture

LSS: ~35g Wetdry / 1/4hp Chiller / 18w UV / MRC skimmer(not installed) / 20g refugium(not installed) / Neptune Apex Controller

Circulation: Supreme Magdrive 12.5 / 2x MP 40(1 installed)

Lighting: 12x 39w AquaticLife HO-T5 / 3 Ecoxotic PAR 38 (not installed) / 2 Ecoxotic 100w Cannon (not installed)

Current Livestock:
3 Blue Reef Chromis
9 Green Chromis
6 Blue Devil Damsels
2 Kupang Damsels
2 Scarlet Cleaner Shrimp

------------------------------

More updates to come soon, including past/future build details along with LSS design.

Thanks!
 
There is a thermostat to the left of the tank.

The radiant heat put off will offset the temp. Might want to consider moving it or putting a remote thermometer on it.

My interest is peaked too.

Looks like a Dr office or something.
 
You're kidding about the wet/dry, aren't you? A major nitrate factory and very old tech. Most people got rid of their wet/dry about twenty years ago.

Dave.M
 
Thanks for the kind words, a lot of silly aesthetics based math went into creating this aquascape. I'll try to upload some of the build-out photos tonight.

dahenley said:
give us some info on the rock structure and the overflow structure.
Click to expand...

The habitat is comprised of live rock, supported by a ceiling grate lattice structure, forming the overall shape of the structure. Rock was fitted, in stages, along the lattice. As each layer was placed expanding foam was utilized to fill gaps and adhere the rock to the support structure. From there the foam was manually textured to add some entropy to the otherwise amorphous, bulbous cured product. After the texturing a slurry of marine grade epoxy and various gradients of carbonate substrates were applied to the seams and unsightly areas on the rock. This process took approximately 30-40 hrs(probably more), mostly because of the cure time of the foam(8hrs) and the epoxy(12hrs), which some areas demanded 3-4 coats of material.

The overflow is hidden behind the slope structure on the left; note the top of the formation has breaks in it. Although I am having intermittent issues with the waterline creeping up, which I believe is fairly common with the weirs in these tanks. I plan on modifying the weir to accommodate more spillover. Left-hand overflow was removed to preserve aesthetics.

This was my second time utilizing this technique and I can't say the efficiency increased but my familiarity with the materials certainly helped with the end product.

worm5406 said:
There is a thermostat to the left of the tank.

The radiant heat put off will offset the temp. Might want to consider moving it or putting a remote thermometer on it.

My interest is peaked too.

Looks like a Dr office or something.
Click to expand...

I completely overlooked this! Thanks for the input. We had it moved about a foot over but I agree it might be a little too close for comfort. We are having a canopy built right now, which should be fully covered, also with LED's, T5's and a chiller the ambient temperature hopefully will stay reasonable. (The building is usually kept at 75 so I hope this mitigates the issue!)

dave.m said:
You're kidding about the wet/dry, aren't you? A major nitrate factory and very old tech. Most people got rid of their wet/dry about twenty years ago.

Dave.M
Click to expand...


I wholeheartedly disagree; public aquaria utilize wet-dry filtration for most of their systems, especially with a heavy bioload, compounded with the macro-algae/refugium/deep-sand bed this will not be an issue nor a concern. Plus the extent of nitrobacter colonies are directly correlated with the oxygen gradient they are exposed to, so I see it as a great component of a stable system, although by no means necessary.

Its common practice to clean out bio-towers every couple years to prevent any nutrient sinks, being vigilant and observant is all it takes to maintain this component, as is with any sub-system. For those interested I'm utilizing ceramic media for the wetdry.
 
Last edited:
I have looked at this Aquascape over and over, you sir have created wonderful depth inside of a glass box I cannot wait to see what it looks like with coral growing all over. Well done,
 
ConAquaSys said:
I wholeheartedly disagree; public aquaria utilize wet-dry filtration for most of their systems, especially with a heavy bioload, compounded with the macro-algae/refugium/deep-sand bed this will not be an issue nor a concern. Plus the extent of nitrobacter colonies are directly correlated with the oxygen gradient they are exposed to, so I see it as a great component of a stable system, although by no means necessary.

Its common practice to clean out bio-towers every couple years to prevent any nutrient sinks, being vigilant and observant is all it takes to maintain this component, as is with any sub-system. For those interested I'm utilizing ceramic media for the wetdry.
Click to expand...
Your reference to Nitrobacter confirms what I suspected, that you are looking at long antiquated reef tank documentation. As Dr. Tim Hovanec's articles in Aquarium Fish Monthly Dec 96 and Jan 97 clearly showed, references to Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter bacteria are for terrestrial soil samples only and do not apply to marine environments.

It is not a question of whether a wet/dry can be made to work, but whether or not it is the best or easiest method to use. However, this is your system and you are certainly within your rights to use whatever method you deem apt.

Dave.M
 
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