330 Cube Update

[sg1.025]

Well... after about 2weeks of research and thinking, and checking the wallet, most of the components to the cube have been selected.

WOW... i have to say, this is one expensive project. But, in the end, i'm sure it will all have been worth it.

11/21/06 â€"œ Email from Andy at MRC has notified me that the MR-3R has been sent. Skimmer is scheduled to arrive 11/29/06

11/22/06 â€"œ Substrate has been selected:
• 24 - Caribsea AragMax 30#

11/22/06 â€"œ Lighting package has been selected:
• 2 â€"œ 400 Watt Dual HQI PFO Ballast
• 4 â€"œ LumenArc (L3)
• 2 â€"œ 10k 400Watt Iwasaki
• 2 â€"œ 20k 400Watt XM
• 4 â€"œ VHO URI Super Actinics
• 1 â€"œ PFO VHO Retrofit kit

11/22/06 â€"œ Closed loop has been selected:
• OceansMotions 4-way(OM4)

11/22/06 â€"œ Pumps have been selected:
• Sequence Reeflo Dart for Main Display return
• Sequence HammerHead for CL(OM4)
• Sequence Wahoo for Skimmer(MR-3R)

 

[NaClH20NMYVEIN]

Yep that is an expensive list!

 

[sg1.025]

I must say thanks to my employer, he's making this all possible. GO overtime!!!

 

[corivus]

nice setup list but I think you'll be more excited once you get everything in (it'll be like early christmas)

 

[sg1.025]

corivus - yes... early Christmas indeed. I'm wondering though... did i forget anything?

I do have the ozone availabl:

Red Sea AquaZone Deluxe 200 mg/hr ozonizer

 

[aztbs]

Don't forget $700 or more worth of PVC, elbows, ball valves, unions, glue, etc etc.
A giant pack of shop towels.
A good camera to take lots of pictures for us.
The rolaids and tylenol
A gift for your spouse

And a full tank of gas for all of the trips you make to the hardware store. I can't wait for more updates.

 

[sg1.025]

aztbs - $700??? wow.. i hope you're wrong!!! So far, i'm up to almost $200 on ball valves, unions, elbows.

 

[Pyrrhus]

It is very easy to spend $100 or more on a single trip for plumbing parts, and the really useful parts always seem to cost more. It all adds up, $15 a union, $10-20 a bulkhead, up to $80 for a true union ball valve, $2 a foot for spaflex........

 

[aztbs]

I may have exaggerated a little, but watch out on the parts! It is something commonly underbudgeted. The people at Ace Hardware and Lowes know me by name, and want to know what I am doing next when I go in there.

You do have a union and a ballvalve on both sides of each pump, right? That's over $100 right there!!

 

[Fliger]

Wow sounds nice! Wait til you get the electricity bill next summer.

You should try to order from www.savko.com for flex hose & unions and stuff like that. When I plan well I order from there - other than that I've found ATR to have the best variety of parts and useful staff.

 

[sg1.025]

aztbs - well.... i'm trying to figure out why i would have a ball valve on both sides of a pump. I would not throttle back on the suction side, but would throttle on the pressure(output) side.

But, here is how i would have my plumbing:

Tank CL Return: 4 Ball Valve, 4 unions
OM4 CL: 4 unions

Depending on what type of ball valve I use, the cost would go up or down. If I use the "white" HomeDepot style, my cost is:

2 x 2" Ball Valve = $10/valve
2 x 2" Union = $10/union
total = $40

or

2 x 2" Ball Valve with Union on both sides = $33 each
total cost = $66

Based on what i've seen most people use on their tanks, the "white" homedepot style would work. Then you have the question of sched 40 or 80, for me, sched 40 would be plenty.

Fliger - It can't be worst than what i had in california!!! Summers there, my electical bill ran $550/month, and my tank was only 100 gallons. Sure, this tank is bigger, but, this summer here in AZ, my highest bill was $287, with no tank. I have had solar panels on my mind, so, we'll se

 

[sg1.025]

Well... after a brief pause, i've continued on my journey to build this cube tank. Here is the latest update...

- MR-4R came in... wow.. is it a monster
- Savko plumbing parts came in. All this for $197... not bad
- Stand came in from AZ Powder Coating. Not a bad job for $50

 

[sg1.025]

Here are some photo's of current progress...

 

[Blakethebug]

wow that is an aweful lot to spend on just pvc parts. it makes me greatful for what i have a bit more. lol my dad has a business that repairs and installs sprinkler systems so he lets me steal any parts i need. than heaven for dad

 

[Fliger]

Looks awesome man. Stand looks killer.

I hear ya on the electricity. I used to pay more for my 60G with PC's when I lived in CA than I paid for my 150 with MH here. Once I figured out my tank was running me $125 in SF - which might even be more than my 340.

 

[sg1.025]

Fliger - I've been doing a lot of research on T5's and found some interesting case studies where the T5's illuminated a gym better than MH.

In fact, i've been able to find about 3-5 different case studies for T5's. And, all data seems to point to extremely good illumination from T5's.

That being said, i'm really considering lighting the whole tank with T5's.

I'm also looking into Solar panels in my back yard so as to tap into natural resources.

 

[Rekonn]

Elzool uses solar panels and make a great post here. If I knew that I was going to be in the same house for over a decade, I'd definitely make the investment.

 

[mike89t]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8606980#post8606980 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sg1.025
aztbs - well.... i'm trying to figure out why i would have a ball valve on both sides of a pump. I would not throttle back on the suction side, but would throttle on the pressure(output) side.

You put a union ball valve on both sides so that you can easily replace the pump or do maintainece on it with minimal mess and effort.

I also added a T to my return with another ball valve that goes to a flexable hose. That way I can do easy water changes. I just turn off the pump, close the return ball valve, open the water change ball valve and turn on my pump till I fill up the bucket with the flexable hose. Makes doing water changes real easy. Just don't forget to set the ball valves back to normal operation or you will end up with a big mess. I've never done that before.

 

[sg1.025]

mike89t - I get unions on boths sides, but wasn't sure about needing any type of valve.

If i needo to do any maintenance, then i simply would close the main ball valves. Then i would remove the affected item using the unions.

I think we're on the same page, just different method of conveying it.

BUT.... all input and suggestions are welcomed AND encouraged!!

 

[sg1.025]

Leak testing time.... All was going good until i overtighted a male adapter to the 1" CL return. One bulkhead cracked... must be replaced.