34 gallon frag tank, lotsa questions/build thread!!!

hoohoohdillyo

New member
As some of you saw I picked up the 34 gallon deep blue frag tank, it measures 36" long x 18" deep x 12" tall. I already have a bio-ball sump that is being converted over to a refugium for this tank that measures 30" x 14.5" x 16". For starters I am using one of my mag drive 7's on it for a return pump, I will more than likely upgrade this in the future so something a bit better, but for now it's free! For the things I don't yet have I am looking to get a Jebao WP-25 powerhead and an SC Aquariums SCA -301 65 Gallon Protein Skimmer. I'm not exactly sure what to do on the lights... I have been talking with Crazyeyes and my roommate Planefanatic and what to do and figured I'd check here for a bit of advice.

Keep in mind I don't have endless pockets, with that said I would rather buy something one time and get it done right the first time so saving money isn't the most important part here, it's getting the best that I can without going too far overboard. I really want something that is auto sunrise to sunset. Timers are nice and all, but they don't slowly dim the lights, it's a sudden surprise on the fish.

Option 1: Pick up a used D120 from a friend for around $75-100. I know I won't love this, but it could always be temporary until I make up my mind and I can sell it for what I would have into it. Upside here is it's cheap, downside is well, it's cheap.

Option 2: Pick up a used Ecotech Radion XR30w gen 2 for roughly $375. This sounds like a great deal since these are awesome lights, has an app that I can use to control it on my phone, auto turn on, auto dimmer, so on...Upside here is that it's a proven light and looks good, downside is the price!

Option 3: Build my own lighting system. I can build my own light using Rapid LED's Aurora puck with a wide angle lens. Then picking up a storm led controller for it as well as the power supply, board, so on. The thing here is the price is around the same as the used Radion gen 2's placing a single puck system at about $300 (enough for my tank) and a dual at $125 (if I wanted to expand later on) and that's with no wi-fi connection on it. Upside here is that I get to custom make it, downside is well, it's the most expensive setup when you consider what you get out of it.

Option 4: Brand new from ebay IT-2060 for a bid cost of roughly $260-$275. This is pretty much an oversized D120, but with full auto sunrise/sunset and a cool remote! It's still not the best, but for $100 savings over the used Radion, is it simply worth using the Bridgelux chips instead of the ultra powerful Cree's? Upside here is that the price is pretty nice, the downside is it's pretty much the same thing as a D120, just with a built in timer and kind of an auto dimmer.

Option 5: You guys tell me what you'd suggest and why. I am open to other suggestions just as long as what you suggest has a sunrise to sunset option on it, otherwise the used D120 can't be beat. At this point I have no interest in MH, T5's, Power Compacts... So on. This setup is for my bedroom and I don't want the extra heat generated from them. Also, buying a new Radion or equivalent at $650 or more is out of my price range and I cannot even think about an option like that. I'd say let's try to keep this under $400 for sure.
 
For 400 you can build a killer DIY led so if your handy that's the way to go in my opinion. I would go with a T5/Led set up. I would be happy to help u along the way and if you have been talking with Mike (crazyeyes) he knows a lot about diy leds as well. As far as the power heads I picked up a new wp10 and it's awesome. It's tiny so u almost don't notice it and it moves alot of water and for the price u can't beat it. I'm actually thinking abt putting 2 in my BC29.
 
Another thought if you can find an old used 4 or 6 bulb 36" T5 fixture you can retro fit it with leds and use the parts to run T5s in it as well. Just an idea and you would get the best of both worlds and have a clean pre made fixture look.
 
x2 Luxeon M 4k 12w chip = $22.00
x1 Luxeon M royal blue 12w chip =$11.00
x8 Exotic Hyper violet LEDs = $40.00
x4 Rebel Cyan LED = $16.00
x4-6 Cree true blue LED = $22-$29.00
x4 Meanwell LDD-1000H drivers =$28.00
x1 Meanwell LDD-700H driver =$7.00
Coralux 5up LDD driver board =$14.00
6x10 heatsink =$20.00
P/S =$40
Storm controller =$65.00

That'll put your around $350 after all is said and done. I know it sounds like a lot when you compare it to a d120 BUT, these are all high quality LEDs.
 
I like that idea Mike. I think I want a bit more colors in there to get as close to full spectrum out of it. I'd also want to add in a few low watt moonlights. If needed I could always get the better storm controller to utilize more channels, or do the touch screen option we were looking at. Let's talk more about this soon and I will get a game plan setup for this. I might do this and piece it together so it's not a huge hit and once and the wifey won't kill me for it ;)
 
If you come to the meeting you can see my DIY setup. I used the following LEDs, I will list the number I would recommend for your build:

2-Bridgelux BXRA 950 (Or Bridgelux Vero): $15
4- Luxeon M Royal Blues: $44
8- Hyper Violet (Or True Violet, maybe 4 of each): $35
2- Rebel Cyan: $6.6
2- Red: $6.8
2- Blue: $6.8

x5 Meanwell LDD-1000H drivers =$28.00
x1 Meanwell LDD-700H driver =$7.00
Coralux 6up LDD driver board =$14.00
6x10 heatsink =$20.00
P/S =$40
Storm controller =$65.00 Or Jarduino Build (Touchscreen): $50

I didn't total it up, but I'm assuming it's about the same as the list mike built. Only thing different about mine I believe is less cyan and more Royal Blue.

I'm not saying that what I posted is better than what Mike did, just listing the parts that I used. You would need to go ahead and get another LDD 2-Up board and 1 more Meanwell LDD driver, and maybe 1-3 Watt LED if you wanted moonlights.

If you want you can come swing by my house and check out the build I did for my 40B which is basically what I listed for your upcoming frag tank.
 
Only thing I'd pull from that is the red. The red spectrum is very important but, the 4k whites contain more than enough red.
 
Think about your favorite tanks that you have seen in person, and feed off of that t5/ led will be the future. Go custum DIY build, I love the fixture from the rimles 105 build.
 
Think about your favorite tanks that you have seen in person, and feed off of that t5/ led will be the future. Go custum DIY build, I love the fixture from the rimles 105 build.

Yeah, I think LED/T-5 combo is the now of lighting for sure, in the future 100% LED will take over due to technology changing, I mean you get full sunrise to sunset mimicking already, think of what will happen in 2-3 years! IMO you get the best of both worlds with T5/led and the high power cost/heat of the MH is just insane for 99% of the population out there. However, for now I cannot do any sort of T5 due to this going into my bedroom that already has two gaming computers with 24" monitors and a 32" monitor in it... Lot's of heat already in here and I really don't want to setup my floor portable a/c unit for additional cooling. I like the build on the 105 rimless for sure, and when I move and this goes into a separate room with my other tanks I will surely be building lighting systems like that for everything. At this point I think I am going to pick up a used D-120 from a friend (since I can pretty much sell it again for close to what I will have in it) and then decide to either build my own setup or buy a Radion gen 2 used. Hell, for $350-375 they are a hell of a deal, nobody can argue with that. I can imagine that pretty soon the chinese will corner this market as well and start pushing out lights exactly like the Radions. I know some people will argue with made in China, since I am one of them, but sadly Ecotech is made outside of USA too, just assembled here. If it were a fully made in USA product I would be all over it, but I can't justify spending $650+ on a Chinese (not 100% sure where the parts are made, just know it's not USA) made light just because it is assembled here.

Thanks everyone for the advise! I am still torn by the DIY and the already done, but used Ecotech Radion's. I like the idea of DiY, but in reality comparing to a slightly used product the cost to loss ratio is kind of high to me... You completely lose the option of being able to control the light on your computer with DiY, unless you spend a bunch of money. Which would bring the cost way higher than a used Radion! If I where comparing to new it would be no doubt hands down DiY.
 
Pictures tonight, I swear!

I picked up some scrap acrylic on craigslist the other day so I could add another bulkhead and with two aquarium builds going on inside the garage it's a pain to get to the table saw. Hopefully tomorrow I can clear enough space to get to it for the few cuts I need on it.

With the plumbing there are only two holes drilled inside the overflow, one is for a 1" bulkhead and the other is for a 3/4" bulkhead. I decided to completely customize it and attempt to make a Herbie Style overflow with only the two lines. To simplify things I decided to use the 3/4" as my main syphon drain and the 1" bulkhead as my return as well as a secondary/emergency. Now, you are probably thinking this dude is a nutcase *** is he talking about? Right? Well, How I figure this would work originally was going to simply just run 5/8" OD hose inside the 1" pipe, however I found it was a bit tight and needed to figure out another way. After 3 trips to both Home Depot and ACE I finally figured it out today!!! To simply things on this post (till I have my wife upload pictures for me tonight) I ran threaded to non threaded couplings that allowed me to use them in place of the bulkhead. That allowed me to actually use 1.25" pipe on the bottom of the tank and 1.5" pipe on the topside instead of the 1" that a normal bulkhead allows for with the same size thread. The 5/8" hose is simply ran through this larger pipe from the pump up through this plumbing to the top of it all where a fitting that goes from the 1.5" pipe down to the 1/2" barbed fitting and finally to the 1/2" lockline I am using. The 1.5" to 1.25" pipes are used for the secondary/emergency water flow, don't worry the pictures will make it clear, I swear!

At another time I am going to try and make a fully detailed post about this with pictures and links if I am allowed to put links to homedepot and ace on the forums. If no links are allowed I will simple list the exact types of hose, pipes, and fittings used to make this work. For now I will just simply add a few teaser photos and try to explain it the best I can without going too much into it. I am sure most of you reading this post will more than likely read through my last paragraph about 3-4 times and go *** is he talking about... At least till you see pictures, then it becomes clear and very simple. Just figured I'd give an update while I am still alive and moving before I stuff myself with some amazing food.
 
Okay, so I was off by a few hours on the update with the pictures, so don't kill me here!

This method is being done because the bottom of the tank is pre drilled with a 3/4" bulkhead hole and a 1" bulkhead hole, then tempered so you cannot drill anymore holes. I don't want a noisy overflow and decided to come up with a way to make a Herbie style by adding a sealed line for the pump return inside of the drain pipe. The best way was to modify the secondary/emergency drainpipe to bigger plumbing allowing for more flow of the water. I will do my best to do a complete breakdown the pictures for a better understanding, and please let me know if I am not clear in any way.

All fittings were purchased at either ACE Hardware or Home Depot, I did not check lowes for these fittings yet and am sure they can be purchased online, but I will have a breakdown when I make a specific post just for this so it will be easier to link to others interested in doing this method... Most of these fittings can be purchased at any store, with the exception of only a couple due to how the manufacture builds them.

I'm guessing this has more than likely been done before by others, but this was an idea that I came up with after doing a search online on "fill inside drain pipe" and saw something that led to this idea. So, to help others in the path of finding a silent drain without drilling more holes or having ugly piping that will be visible, I really would like to show others how you can have the Herbie style with only two drilled holes. With that said, lets begin!

:::Please note::: For simplification of explanation nothing has been glued or sealed with thread sealant or tape during the taking of the pictures.

Starting with the 1" slip bulkhead replacement I am using a 1 1/4" Threaded to 1 1/2" female smooth. This part comes from ACE hardware because the one at Home Depot didn't have enough of a flange for the o ring to sit on and that just didn't seem safe enough to try to use.

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As you can see the standard 1" bulkhead has the same 1 1/4" threaded end, however when you slip a 1" pipe inside the size is reduced significantly. With using the 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" you utilize the most amount of the hole that is cut into the glass.

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This shows the standard 1" bulkhead next to the 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" conversion and how it will look once in place. I will be either trying to buy or making a custom plastic washer to fit on the bottom side to help ease the pressure when tightening on the glass. If you have any ideas what to use for purchase in store, please let me know since most people don't have a lot of tools at their disposal.

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This is showing the bottom end connected to the bulkhead replacement. Starting with the female 1 1/4" fitting on the top, you slip in any length of 1 1/4" pipe that will connect to a 45 degree fitting, then to any length of 1 1/4" pipe, and finally back down to a 45 degree fitting pointing down for the drain to fall into an area of the sump. I would suggest draining this as close to the return pump as possible since it is mainly an emergency, as well as the fact that it will hold the hose that will hook up to the return pump, but that part is up to you.

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This is showing the start of the top side. Using the length of 1 1/2" pipe needed for your tank that will fit into the top portion of the bulkhead, you will then slide a piece of slip to slip 1 1/2".
 
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Using a 1 1/2" slip to 1/2" female threaded from Home Depot, I didn't check ACE on this one yet. I cut it in half to allow the hose barb to have enough clearance as well as to allow the main pipe to be used as a drain. As you can see once I cut it the Home Depot version has slot holes already in it from the manufacturer, so you don't have to drill any drain holes for the main drain pipe!

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You then take the 1/2" straight hose barb to 1/2" threaded and insert it inside the already cut fitting. Make sure you slide this in from the 1/2" threaded side and tighten from the barb side by hand. You can use pliers here, but be careful not to damage the barb.

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You can either add on the 1/2" threaded 90 degree before or after install, but this is to connect the 1/2" loc-line. For my application I might end up running some hose from the top side to the opening then putting in a fitting for the loc-line. This is also completely up to you.

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Here is a view of the top side completed next to what would have been the 1" pipe normally used. You can really tell a difference here on how much more room is allowed with this idea. Next is the complete setup with the part that is not connected being where it will be on the top and bottom portions of the tank.
 
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Fitted into the tank from the top side, there is about 3/4" of thread on the bottom end of the tank.

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Lots of clearance around the hose to allow the secondary to work as an emergency as well.


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The bottom and top views of the tank when rough complete.

Overall to me I think it is fantastic and will give me exactly what I wanted in a small bedroom tank. Please feel free to comment and critique anything. I won't get offended with suggestions, I promise!!! Lmao I hope you guys enjoy this as much as I do.
 
That plumbing is way over my head. Looks like you did a great job though. Looking forward to seeing some more updates. This tank is going to look awesome.
 
That plumbing is way over my head. Looks like you did a great job though. Looking forward to seeing some more updates. This tank is going to look awesome.

It's so simple... When I finally came up with this on the drawing board I damn near slapped myself it was so simple. I mean come on, three trips (of about an hour each walking down the aisles to find plumbing that would work :headwally:) to the hardware store to find the way to set it up and this is what I came up with. This is also why I posted it though, because something so simple could be so hard to think up! Once I have it all complete I am going to post it on the main boards so all anyone else wanting to do this can just :reading: up on it.
 
Joe is my hero. Not but seriously, this can be used by so many people who have RR tanks with only 2 holes drilled. Should be a killer setup.
 
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