36x18" 40B Stand Build

No sump. Here's the plumbing plan.. I've since decided on changing the 60 cube to a 40B because the dimensions of the 60 cube felt a little cramped for me (I think the inhabitants will be happer with a longer swimming lane).

That grand scheme was discussed in another thread here: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2146199

But you make a good point. I'll be sure to only use pocket screws for the top center cross support, this way I ever did want to use this stand with a sump, I can unscrew the support and drop it in.
 
Progress

Progress

Some updates.

Assembly begins
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Ready for trim! The joints are doweled, screwed and glued. It's like a tank - you could throw it off a house.
 
Thanks. I'm wondering what other type of joinery others use with plywood stands. I get the sense that I probably did more than necessary with dowels, screws and glue, but it makes me feel better!
 
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I never thought about using only 3/4" plywood, makes sense now that i look at it though. I guess just living in Southern California, having 2x4's is a little easier to wrap my mind around with potential earthquakes. but still there is no guarantee, beautiful craftsmanship and i love the shop, tons of room!
 
That price per a sq. ft. Seems a little high. With that price my doors for my stand, 21"W x 30"H, would have run $190/door. Damn! This place had nice doors and was cheaper than any other place I found. http://stores.ebay.com/DOORSANDPULLS

I still ended up making my doors anyway. I had a bunch of scrap wood laying around and wanted to use it.
 
I made my stand doors. It was my 2nd attempt at doors, both were successful. It can be frustrating, but i'm proud of my work now and I saved money.

If you decide to make your own you have a lot of options. One is to use pocket holes. Here is a great tutorial outlining another: http://lumberjocks.com/kolwdwrkr/blog/12589.

Do you plan on staining the cabinet? How are you sealing it?

Good luck.
 
I'm planing on staining with Minwax White Wash Pickling Stain and Polyurethane. Maybe I should use some kind of sealant and white paint inside? What's the prevailing wisdom on this?

I set the inside shelf about 1" below the openings to contain minor spills.

Oh, and I've decided to build the doors...let's just go ahead and call the woodworking a meta hobby at this point.
 
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Here's a stand I've been making the past few days for my daughter's 40B. For piece of mind, I don't think you can overbuild, especially if the piece is going to be furniture grade. This tank will have a matching 20" high canopy. I'm also building an identacle stand and canopy for my second 60x30x30. Build it right and it will last for many years to come.
 

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I still have to sand and make the panel doors. For the interior of the stand, I use either an exterior gloss paint or epoxy paint, both in white
 
Oh wow...that's just gorgeous work! Thanks for posting, but now I'm going to have to step up my game on the trim work!
 
I'm really going to have to steal *ahem* borrow some of your design on the trim. Would you mind elaborating on how you built up that beautiful ornate crown and the base?
 
Sure, I'll post some more pics late today. Basically, I built the frame from 2x material, them skinned it in 3/4" ply. I then made a face frame from 3/4" oak ply and attached 4 smaller face frames on the corners made from 3/4" oak, which starts to give you the corner bumpouts. On the inside of the corner bumpouts, I made cove mouldings from oak. I then just began making different moildings and attaching them around the top and bottom of the stand to build up the crown and base profiles. I capped the top of the stand/crown with 3" oak, which I used a roundover bit on the outside, and followed the profile of the crown all the way around. The main thing is being square on the actual frame build, then being accurate on all of the moulding cuts as you build it up. If you're not, every mistake will be mirrored on the next step. I'll post pics to give you a better idea of what was done.
 
This stand is way overbuilt and without a doubt could easilly hold 2500lbs or a 250 gallon tank. If I wanted just a tank stand, I could've gone a much easier route, but I also wanted a high quality piece of furniture. This stand probably weighs close to 200lbs
 
More progress this weekend.

Installed a skirt to conceal the bottom rim of the tank.
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Trimed the skirt
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Finish trim
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I floated the shoe 1/4" off the bottom for shim clearance and to make sure the plywood is supporting the weight. It also makes the stand look like it's floating above the floor.
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Great job on both stands! I think they both came out great!

pryorrods, I'm sure that would hold up a tank 5 times the size you are putting there!
 
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