36x18" 40B Stand Build
- Thread starter mdenigris
- Start date
mdenigris
New member
Doors.
Doors.
Hey - nice job Co45co. What size tank is that?
Ok - Time to build the doors. :hammer: This is the woodworking forum right?
I mostly used the procedure linked in MentalNote's post - but I bought a raised panel router bit instead of raising the panels on the table saw.
First the frames, with a 1/4" rabbet and tongues for the rails.
Then I joined two 1x6 maple boards for the panels with dowels.
Here's the router bit I used to raise the panels. It's a beast, and I had to make 4 or 5 passes at 1/8" increments on the router table to remove all the material.
And, here's the big screw up for this project. I placed one of the dowels too close to the edge, and it was exposed when raising the panel. :headwally: That one cost me a few hours and a trip back to Home Depot for more maple.
Ok, a few hours later, I've recovered. Panels finished.
Glued and clamped.
And we have doors. They're not perfect, but they're mine and now I don't have to make exceptions when I say "I built it". I'm glad you guys talked me into it!
Next up, removable storage shelves on one side (since this stand won't be used with a sump on it's first tank), a bracket for the American DJ powerstrip, painting the inside and staining the outside, mount the doors and plop a tank on it.
Doors.
Hey - nice job Co45co. What size tank is that?
Ok - Time to build the doors. :hammer: This is the woodworking forum right?
I mostly used the procedure linked in MentalNote's post - but I bought a raised panel router bit instead of raising the panels on the table saw.
First the frames, with a 1/4" rabbet and tongues for the rails.
Then I joined two 1x6 maple boards for the panels with dowels.
Here's the router bit I used to raise the panels. It's a beast, and I had to make 4 or 5 passes at 1/8" increments on the router table to remove all the material.
And, here's the big screw up for this project. I placed one of the dowels too close to the edge, and it was exposed when raising the panel. :headwally: That one cost me a few hours and a trip back to Home Depot for more maple.
Ok, a few hours later, I've recovered. Panels finished.
Glued and clamped.
And we have doors. They're not perfect, but they're mine and now I don't have to make exceptions when I say "I built it". I'm glad you guys talked me into it!
Next up, removable storage shelves on one side (since this stand won't be used with a sump on it's first tank), a bracket for the American DJ powerstrip, painting the inside and staining the outside, mount the doors and plop a tank on it.
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mdenigris - it is a 33 long with corner overflow (which i'm not to happy about).
The panels look good though! unless the panel is finish thickness the wood doesn't really need to be doweled. An edge to edge joint with plenty of glue is more than enough. And I don't know what kind of equipment you have but buying so much wood from home depot can be fairly expensive, did you ever look in to a near by lumber yard?
My gf's parents asked me where I bought the doors and trim to match...... I just looked at them and spoke very slowly "I made them", they stared back.
The panels look good though! unless the panel is finish thickness the wood doesn't really need to be doweled. An edge to edge joint with plenty of glue is more than enough. And I don't know what kind of equipment you have but buying so much wood from home depot can be fairly expensive, did you ever look in to a near by lumber yard?
My gf's parents asked me where I bought the doors and trim to match...... I just looked at them and spoke very slowly "I made them", they stared back.
mdenigris
New member
Co45 - good points. I only used a couple of dowels for alignment, but that could just as easily be accomplished with proper clamping. Lesson learned.
I don't have a jointer or planer if that's what you mean. As a weekend warrior, I'm happy to pay the additional $ for S4S boards, but you're right, I should find a local lumber yard for the next project.
I don't have a jointer or planer if that's what you mean. As a weekend warrior, I'm happy to pay the additional $ for S4S boards, but you're right, I should find a local lumber yard for the next project.
reefermad619
New member
I think this doors look as good or better than the Pre-fab doors you were going to buy. Nice work! How much was the bit you used and how many HP is your router? I know if you have like a 5 HP router you can achieve the raised panel in 1 swipe.
mdenigris
New member
Thanks! I'm very satisfied with them.
The router bit cost $75, but I have a few other projects in mind. I've never regretted buying quality tools. Plus, the fact that I screwed up one door and had to build three means that I got the tool cost down to $25 per door! LOL.
BTW, if anyone wants one slightly irregular door, I've got one for you, cheap.
I'm very satisfied with them.The router bit cost $75, but I have a few other projects in mind. I've never regretted buying quality tools. Plus, the fact that I screwed up one door and had to build three means that I got the tool cost down to $25 per door! LOL.
BTW, if anyone wants one slightly irregular door, I've got one for you, cheap.
Triggerfish
Active member
exactly..that's awesome.. great job!!
swichbeatz
New member
I'm building one right now. Thanks for your info, and it looks great! Nice build!
mdenigris
New member
Thanks guys. I'll post some update pictures tonight. I've completed the finish and installed the doors.
dhickey - I was referring to the joints on the front and back frames. The joints are all horizontal (ie perpendicular to the force of weight) so that the weight of the tank presses the joint together, rather than a vertical joint, which would impart a sheering force on the joint. If you build a frame like I did, just make sure your top and bottom rails extend the entire width of the stand with the vertical members sandwiched between them.
If I had it to do over, I would have built the front and back frames with hardwood rather than plywood which would have saved me the trouble of applying edge banding laminate.
dhickey - I was referring to the joints on the front and back frames. The joints are all horizontal (ie perpendicular to the force of weight) so that the weight of the tank presses the joint together, rather than a vertical joint, which would impart a sheering force on the joint. If you build a frame like I did, just make sure your top and bottom rails extend the entire width of the stand with the vertical members sandwiched between them.
If I had it to do over, I would have built the front and back frames with hardwood rather than plywood which would have saved me the trouble of applying edge banding laminate.
mdenigris
New member
Two coats of Minwax White Pickling stain, three coats of polyurethane, doors attached, tank set atop and filled with tap water for the structural test and final inspection before it's signed off for inside installation by the building inspector (my wife).
Next wood project is the canopy, but first......
Next wood project is the canopy, but first......
mdenigris
New member
Time for a little break from woodworking to get back to reefing.
This is going to be an unconventional build. Because it's going into my three year old daughter's bedroom, safety is the #1 priority, which explains some of the equipment.
The original plan was to plumb this tank down two stories to my main tank in my office, but that has been scraped, or at least delayed for the time being due to the many complexities involved there, as you can imagine.
We want to keep exposed water, and therefore fire and electrocution risk to an absolute minimum, hence the canister filter and HOB skimmer in place of a traditional sump. It also reduces the likelihood of a juice cup or water paints getting dumped into the system by a mischievous toddler.
An inline heater further improves safety, as does the AI LED lighting.
This is going to be an unconventional build. Because it's going into my three year old daughter's bedroom, safety is the #1 priority, which explains some of the equipment.
The original plan was to plumb this tank down two stories to my main tank in my office, but that has been scraped, or at least delayed for the time being due to the many complexities involved there, as you can imagine.
We want to keep exposed water, and therefore fire and electrocution risk to an absolute minimum, hence the canister filter and HOB skimmer in place of a traditional sump. It also reduces the likelihood of a juice cup or water paints getting dumped into the system by a mischievous toddler.
An inline heater further improves safety, as does the AI LED lighting.
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mdenigris
New member
So the equipment list is:
Eheim Pro 3 Canister filter rated at 90G for GFO, Carbon, mechanical and biological filtration
Reef Octopus BH-1000 HOB Skimmer
Tunze Osmolator ATO fed from a sealed container
Hydor 200W inline heater.
2X AI SOL LED Lighting & Controller
Vortech or Tunze pump for flow - TBD
Live rock and livestock moving over from an existing 72 GA FOWLER.
Soft coral and perhaps some LPS and SPS if the system proves worthy.
Eheim Pro 3 Canister filter rated at 90G for GFO, Carbon, mechanical and biological filtration
Reef Octopus BH-1000 HOB Skimmer
Tunze Osmolator ATO fed from a sealed container
Hydor 200W inline heater.
2X AI SOL LED Lighting & Controller
Vortech or Tunze pump for flow - TBD
Live rock and livestock moving over from an existing 72 GA FOWLER.
Soft coral and perhaps some LPS and SPS if the system proves worthy.
muttley000
MTS Sufferer!
The stand came out great! What did the inspector think?
mdenigris
New member
Thanks Muttley. Dry floor, passed inspection. :thumbsup:
