3D Printing

[karimwassef]

Thanks.

 

[Cope413]

I've made all sorts of things for my tank.

I wrote this article a few months back


Since then, I've printed a few more things. I just recently printed an extrusion of my LFS logo. They're going to attach some zoos to it. In a few months they should have an in-tank zoa logo.

Also, PLA is totally fine to use in the tank. While it may, over time (and likely a VERY long time) break down, it would essentially just be like bio pellets. A light carbon dosing.

I've queried Randy Holmes-Farley on a bunch of different materials. PLA is safe as is ABS, PETG, and Nylon (if it's done outgassing).
Can't remember what forum it's on, but I'm sure you can find it.

 

[Cope413]

Apparently, you can't post links to other forums. So, that article, if you're interested is on the forum that shall not be named that has the word reef in it twice with the number 2 in between.

 

[mpgrant77]

I print lots of things for the reef aquarium. I actually opened up an online store to sell some stuff. Here is some of the stuff I have printed. I use ABS material when I print just to keep it safe and strong.

Test Kit drying rack
<a href="http://s292.photobucket.com/user/mpgrant77/media/Aquarium/F433D56B-A4D7-4F00-B621-A907365E2EE2.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm37/mpgrant77/Aquarium/F433D56B-A4D7-4F00-B621-A907365E2EE2.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo F433D56B-A4D7-4F00-B621-A907365E2EE2.jpg"/></a>

Frag rack
<a href="http://s292.photobucket.com/user/mpgrant77/media/printed%20items/DSC01279.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm37/mpgrant77/printed%20items/DSC01279.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC01279.jpg"/></a>


adjustable Limit switch holder
<a href="http://s292.photobucket.com/user/mpgrant77/media/printed%20items/02-141-D.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm37/mpgrant77/printed%20items/02-141-D.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 02-141-D.jpg"/></a>

ecotech controller mounting bracket
<a href="http://s292.photobucket.com/user/mpgrant77/media/printed%20items/478BC0D5-59E6-4A4D-AD1A-22B8C0DA52A5.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm37/mpgrant77/printed%20items/478BC0D5-59E6-4A4D-AD1A-22B8C0DA52A5.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 478BC0D5-59E6-4A4D-AD1A-22B8C0DA52A5.jpg"/></a>

 

[Cope413]

Ha! I've made the same things. I made a little rack for my test kits, a probe holder, and a bracket for my apex display.

I also made a frag rack that is eerily similar to yours. Great minds?

 

[mpgrant77]

3D printers are perfect for those applications. You wish you had something to make the hobby easier. You design what you wish you had. You push print and magically you have what wished for. It is that awesome. Probably alittle over simplified but you get the idea.

 

[Cope413]

Yep. I work for MatterHackers - I get to test out all the newest printers, filaments, and other cool stuff.

Also, I'm working on a near-fully printed nano tank. The only thing that won't be printed will be the acrylic panels. Should be cool when it's finished.

 

[karimwassef]

I need to print a rigid object (a baffle) that is 16" x 6" x 4" max

What's the best printer to do this in ABS with some resolution ( better than 1/64"? )

<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/3_zpsfe3x3x70.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/3_zpsfe3x3x70.png" border="0" alt=" photo 3_zpsfe3x3x70.png"/></a>

I got a quote for it from the 3D printer outlets online and it ran from $120 to $thousands... I need a few plates (20 of them), so I think getting my own printer is the way to go.

 

[geekengineer]

well I can't say I'm a super expert but 16" is pretty big for a lot of 3D printers that are for home use anyways. (That I am aware of anyhow). I say if it be possible to break it up into pieces and glue it together in some way you can get away with smaller build platform. Expect it to take a long time to print potentially if you need to do a lot of parts. If you want the resolution your talking about (if I understand how it works it right) you need something with at least a .35mm nozzle. Of course sufficiently small step size etc.. Oh and good 3D printer software that let you do that thin.

 

[karimwassef]

any recommendation?

 

[geekengineer]

Well Lulzbot TAZ is one of the biggest one that I know about more geared for home use has a 11.7in x 10.8in x 9.8in inch build volume about but they updated it with new all metal nozzle and I not as familiar with it and how well it works. Suppose to be able to do more fancier materials, but might be more issues with it that maybe haven't been all ironed out yet.

I not necessarily trying to sell it to you, but just what I am familiar with. There are some links on their page for some reviews. Also some of them lead to other 3D printer reviews. Maybe you can get some idea if its right for you or not or find some other ones that are. I would assume you will get more input that just me.

https://www.lulzbot.com/products/lulzbot-taz-5-3d-printer

 

[karimwassef]

Thanks. I'll split it in half making the space 8" x 7" x 4".

That should open it up to more manufacturers.

 

[geekengineer]

yeah that would make it easier. I presume there are bigger out there but probably starts getting into commercial 3D printers.

 

[_Snuffles]

Thanks. I'll split it in half making the space 8" x 7" x 4".

That should open it up to more manufacturers.

you can still get the size you want just split the model in half and weld it together with acetone. just make sure its true abs and not some cheap piece or the abs wont weld. got a bad one some time ago and the soaked bits only removed the color...

EDIT: you might also want to thicken the 1/16th spots because they could break pretty easily after or during printing you'll probably want to take a brush and apply acetone to help weld the layers together.

 

[karimwassef]

That's what I meant. I'll split it in half so it will fit. Then weld it together afterwards.

 

[karimwassef]

Anyone else use and like their 3D printer?

 

[mpgrant77]

I use a makerbot 2x. I really like the ease of use. I did not feel like buying a kit I had to assemble, or spending a ton of money. Just seemed to fit what I was looking for. You do not have to use acetone for welding parts together. Superglue does the exact same thing.

 

[jrhupp]

I use a heavily modified MakerFarm PrussaI3. It was low cost (around 500$ at the time) and was open enough that I could tinker with it. I have added auto bed leveling, a passively heated build chamber and some mods that let me do PCBs on it. I would not call it an out of the box success, but I have got it performing almost on par with our 30k$ machine at work.

I'll mention this as I saw a potentially misleading comment above; I am not aware of any hobbiest machine that specs x/y precession. When hobbiest talk of precession they are referring to layer height (z). For the model you posted this not supper critical.

I think there was also a comment regarding wall thickness versus nozzle diameter. These do not need to be even multiples. A good slicer will compensate for this. I use 0.4mm nozzle and a 1mm wall thickness regularly.

For software I model in sketch up and use a rbuy script (solid inspector) to check to make sure it is manifold. If you use the pro version of sketch up you can work with solid objects and the script is not needed. I slice in cura and for PCBs I use flatcam. Manifold is not required for some of the more popular hobby printers that use their own software as they do some internal error checking and correcting.

 

[karimwassef]

Wait. How do you do PCB??

 

[geekengineer]

I use a heavily modified MakerFarm PrussaI3. It was low cost (around 500$ at the time) and was open enough that I could tinker with it. I have added auto bed leveling, a passively heated build chamber and some mods that let me do PCBs on it. I would not call it an out of the box success, but I have got it performing almost on par with our 30k$ machine at work.

I'll mention this as I saw a potentially misleading comment above; I am not aware of any hobbiest machine that specs x/y precession. When hobbiest talk of precession they are referring to layer height (z). For the model you posted this not supper critical.

I think there was also a comment regarding wall thickness versus nozzle diameter. These do not need to be even multiples. A good slicer will compensate for this. I use 0.4mm nozzle and a 1mm wall thickness regularly.

For software I model in sketch up and use a rbuy script (solid inspector) to check to make sure it is manifold. If you use the pro version of sketch up you can work with solid objects and the script is not needed. I slice in cura and for PCBs I use flatcam. Manifold is not required for some of the more popular hobby printers that use their own software as they do some internal error checking and correcting.

Thanks for the clarification. I thought I tried to say I wasn't totally an expert on how that all works. I made a rough guess based on the size of what he was trying to print.

However this is another option is going with a more "self built" or kit machine. I almost thinking about doing something like that for my next bigger machine when I get to really needing it.

As for PCBs are you just using ink pen or ink reservoir setup? That is the few ways I have seen that done before.