3D Printing

For PCBs I use a bit different of an approach. I have seen the pen version and the x-carriage mounted mill. But I don't think you can really get a good resist from a pen plotter approach (maybe, I haven't tried it but base that on many years experice etching boards with the toner transfer method) and your x/y resolution is limited by the nib diameter of the pin. For the mill I didn't want the mess or the hassle that comes from reconfiguring for this. So instead I made a spring loaded scribe that mounts with a single screw on my x-carriage. I coat the full blank board with a resist and use the scribe to scratch off the non-copper regions of the resist. Then etch as normal. This seems to work well and gives quite good results.
 
Whoa, lots of action here and I wasn't paying attention.

+1 to most of what has been said/offered.

The Taz is one of the larger machines, but as others have said, looks easy enough to break apart and split into 2 or more pieces you can join together later.

If you're looking to do some PCB making/prototyping, check out the Othermill.

It's a small desktop milling machine made for PCB making, and light duty general milling.

As far as printer recommendations, my list of machines I'd recommend to check out

1) MakeIt Pro
2) Ultimaker 2
3) Rostock Max v2 by SeeMeCNC
4) Lulzbot Taz 5

I've got 10,000+ machine hours over the past 2+ years, and have printed on dozens of different machines. If you have specific questions, feel free to PM me.
 
For PCBs I use a bit different of an approach. I have seen the pen version and the x-carriage mounted mill. But I don't think you can really get a good resist from a pen plotter approach (maybe, I haven't tried it but base that on many years experice etching boards with the toner transfer method) and your x/y resolution is limited by the nib diameter of the pin. For the mill I didn't want the mess or the hassle that comes from reconfiguring for this. So instead I made a spring loaded scribe that mounts with a single screw on my x-carriage. I coat the full blank board with a resist and use the scribe to scratch off the non-copper regions of the resist. Then etch as normal. This seems to work well and gives quite good results.

Cool idea sort of like using the laser approach but simpler.
 
Whoa, lots of action here and I wasn't paying attention.

+1 to most of what has been said/offered.

The Taz is one of the larger machines, but as others have said, looks easy enough to break apart and split into 2 or more pieces you can join together later.

If you're looking to do some PCB making/prototyping, check out the Othermill.

It's a small desktop milling machine made for PCB making, and light duty general milling.

As far as printer recommendations, my list of machines I'd recommend to check out

1) MakeIt Pro
2) Ultimaker 2
3) Rostock Max v2 by SeeMeCNC
4) Lulzbot Taz 5

I've got 10,000+ machine hours over the past 2+ years, and have printed on dozens of different machines. If you have specific questions, feel free to PM me.

Let's not forget the MendalMax 1.5 ;)
This is my printer and was a DIY kit that I sourced the parts out. 3 yrs running and I'm looking into building a Kossel machine.

BTW I just made a new thing for a Kent scrapper.. ;)
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1240939
 
Out of that list above which is your too 2? So far in leaning towards the taz5 but UM2 or creator pro are runners up
 
We make commercially available biopellet reactors with an FDM ABS printer. We had a booth at MACNA last year and will be at MACNA and probably Reefapalooza NY this year. the 3d printer allowed us to create a method of fluidizing the pellets much more efficiently then with other methods - which of course is patent pending. The product has been successful enough that we're moving tbe bulk of the part production to milled acrylic, but the lifting plate ... Or where the action happens can't be milled on a router table so we'll continue making that part on the 3D printer. We've found 3-D printjng to be a viable ans reliable method of part production for both prototyping and final production. Feedback from MACNA was that customers prefer the finished aesthetic of acrylic for a commercial product over the less polished look of 3D printing which is what has driven us in that direction. There's the issue of speed as well... A biopellet reactor which took 24 hours to print can be made in 20 minutes on a CNC.

In either case.. I think 3d printers are an invaluable tool that will advance this hobby rapidly
 
I know this thread is a few few years old by now, but a I also feel the subject is even more relevant now than ever. 3d printers that print extremely good quality items in on 5-6" cube print bed can be had for cheaper than ever.

Would love to see if anyone here has designed and printed anything recently for their reef? Im just now trying to get into design, but a buddy at work printed an overflow box lid for his tank, and i would like to try and do the same. Anything or anyone have anything new? Post pics!
 
Check out the link in my signature. I have done most of the equipment for my system on a 3D printer. I have included links to all my designs as well if you want to try some of them out.
 
Check out the link in my signature. I have done most of the equipment for my system on a 3D printer. I have included links to all my designs as well if you want to try some of them out.

Great build. I actually read it from beginning to current last fall sometime, prior to having a printer. Now the entire dynamic has changed for me ha! thanks for the link and taking the time to post.
 
I gave up on this after a posting that 3D printed parts only work out of the tank or else they break down in saltwater with the exception of ABS & ABS doesn't allow for fine resolution work.
 
I gave up on this after a posting that 3D printed parts only work out of the tank or else they break down in saltwater with the exception of ABS & ABS doesn't allow for fine resolution work.

PLA breaks down. ABS and many other plastics work both in and out of the tank.

I'm not sure I understand the basis of the resolution comment. ABS will support finer detail than any hobby printer or kit printer will produce. Both of which are more than good enough for anything I have been able to think up.
 
I need to print a rigid object (a baffle) that is 16" x 6" x 4" max

What's the best printer to do this in ABS with some resolution ( better than 1/64"? )

<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/3_zpsfe3x3x70.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/3_zpsfe3x3x70.png" border="0" alt=" photo 3_zpsfe3x3x70.png"/></a>

I got a quote for it from the 3D printer outlets online and it ran from $120 to $thousands... I need a few plates (20 of them), so I think getting my own printer is the way to go.

This is what I needed to build. The 1/32 thin ends and the resolution needed for the curvature of the inside fillets was the problem. Also, the unit is overall large 16". So large object with very fine detail. Then I needed 160 of these modules (started at 20 and got bigger)...

Basically, I went back and used a completely different design since this was so difficult, time consuming and expensive. DIY 3D printing is excellent tech but everything has its application. For my set of needs, and for this application, it wasn't a fit imo.
 
It's part of a matrix of similar baffles to create a uniform distribution of flow from a pump outlet over a very large surface ~ 18" x 48"... going from a 4" PVC pipe to that large of an area is near impossible and have effective distribution.

I eventually gave up and went with a matrix of 12 powerheads in a 2x6 matrix instead.

<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/Designs/0_zpsklrrcmuh.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/Designs/0_zpsklrrcmuh.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 0_zpsklrrcmuh.jpg"/></a>

I use 4 channels of them = 48 powerheads at $80 each ~$4000. Ended up being cheaper than 3D printing an equivalent matrix + circulating pumps to achieve the same flow :D
 
I know this is an old thread that I am bringing back to life, but PETG is good for in tank use as well as ABS. PLA is basically the same as biopellets. I think I may try to print some media and add it to a chamber and see what happens.

Anyone have a nice stl for the vortech mounts? I am also looking for a power supply mount. I like the slim line idea that was posted here. I have found several online, but nothing like that. Plus I am in Canada, so anything online normally costs out the rear for shipping etc.

I use a TEVO Tarantula DIY build and it is a great little printer from the first time it fired up. Built it with my 6 and 10 year old daughters. Well they built most of it one afternoon, I just supervised and did some of the wiring. I still have to learn Fusion360. Just been so busy this year with work and medical.
 
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