40 Breeder project(s) Thread

Does the external pump, go straight up, into a "T" then split on each side to the top tank and the bottom tank?

How much water is going to be directed into the lower tanks?
 
First off... very neat, well routed plumbing. I'll chime in too about the union thing... they are a really good idea. I'd add a union valve, or a union and a valve on each side of that pump. It's going to need to be serviced from time to time and as is look now, you are going to need a hacksaw to facilitate that.

For an additional $.02 I'll mention one more thing... As we discussed in the concerns on the strength of your stand, water can be rather heavy. When those return lines (and drains to a lesser extent) fill up with water, especially that cool looking manifold you have, it's going to have a good but of heft to it, and it's just hanging off the back of a standard (i.e. not heavy) duty bulkhead fitting, mounted through the relatively thin glass of a 40g tank. You have what's called a cantilevered load that is pulling downward, pushing on the lower part of the bulkhead, and pulling on the upper. I fear over time the bulkhead fitting or worse the glass will crack. Technically, the vertical return pipe from the pump is giving it extra support, but in doing so you are stressing the plastic pump housing, which might lead to something unfortunate there. (which factors into the serviceability/union issue again). What I'm getting at is I'd like to see some bracketry to either clamp the vertical pipes to the fram of the stand, or some other hanger/clamp type thing supporting the horizontal runs somewhere.

Good Luck !
 
I second what everything Chris has stated.

Also would like to add my two cents.

The large amount of horizontal travel that come after your drain bulkheads will slow the amount of water you will drain from the system.

Use unions, I already utilized mine and my new tank has been up for give or take 6 months.
 
Nice setup - You may want to make sure you have some sort of brackect to the wall to prevent the stand from tipping if it's not wide enough and very top heavy. Just something to think about.
 
Took a little longer than expected to get the time to take pics but here they are!
40breederstand018ps9.jpg

Full stand shot
40breederstand026dp0.jpg

middle tank
40breederstand028kb1.jpg

top tank
40breederstand029uf4.jpg

inside shot
40breederstand027hb4.jpg

behind inside shot
40breederstand032lv7.jpg

hood front
40breederstand037dx2.jpg

hood back
40breederstand039ta6.jpg

Custom over flow covers
40breederstand036zv9.jpg

Brand new Ice Cap 660 for actinic with the 2 175 halides
40breederstand034bn9.jpg


Comment away!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11382768#post11382768 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Chrsnwk
First off... very neat, well routed plumbing. I'll chime in too about the union thing... they are a really good idea. I'd add a union valve, or a union and a valve on each side of that pump. It's going to need to be serviced from time to time and as is look now, you are going to need a hacksaw to facilitate that.

For an additional $.02 I'll mention one more thing... As we discussed in the concerns on the strength of your stand, water can be rather heavy. When those return lines (and drains to a lesser extent) fill up with water, especially that cool looking manifold you have, it's going to have a good but of heft to it, and it's just hanging off the back of a standard (i.e. not heavy) duty bulkhead fitting, mounted through the relatively thin glass of a 40g tank. You have what's called a cantilevered load that is pulling downward, pushing on the lower part of the bulkhead, and pulling on the upper. I fear over time the bulkhead fitting or worse the glass will crack. Technically, the vertical return pipe from the pump is giving it extra support, but in doing so you are stressing the plastic pump housing, which might lead to something unfortunate there. (which factors into the serviceability/union issue again). What I'm getting at is I'd like to see some bracketry to either clamp the vertical pipes to the fram of the stand, or some other hanger/clamp type thing supporting the horizontal runs somewhere.

Good Luck !
Thanks for the input, i have brackets for pipe support just forgot to mention.
I would also like to thank you for your amazing detailed ideas and information and thoughts, this also goes for everyone! :thumbsup:
 
I'm happy to have helped. The stand and plumbing look good. Is that a check valve I see above your return pump? If so, please don't rely on it to avert disaster. Murphy's 7th law states that all check valves with fail when you need them to work. Even if it's a top quality on with sapphire bearings and NASA quality sealing surfaces, all it takes is one little tube worm, adventurous starfish, or baby snail to defeat even the most precise check valves. Please also incorporate some siphon breaks into your returns if you haven't already. Also be sure that if the power fails, the top tank can't back flow into the middle tank, since the path to the sump is impeded by the aforementioned check valve.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11731779#post11731779 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Chrsnwk
Murphy's 7th law states that all check valves with fail when you need them to work.

Hilarious.

Good points. Add siphon break holes its easy and will save a huge headache if power does go out.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11379673#post11379673 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by suppressivefire
also new reflectors and sockets.
40breederstand016si9.jpg

40breederstand017rq4.jpg

Those reflectors only have two wires, which I think are both power. Your going to need to ground the third wire from your ballast to something. You could even get a ground plug and plug it into the ground on a wall outlet.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11731779#post11731779 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Chrsnwk
I'm happy to have helped. The stand and plumbing look good. Is that a check valve I see above your return pump? If so, please don't rely on it to avert disaster. Murphy's 7th law states that all check valves with fail when you need them to work. Even if it's a top quality on with sapphire bearings and NASA quality sealing surfaces, all it takes is one little tube worm, adventurous starfish, or baby snail to defeat even the most precise check valves. Please also incorporate some siphon breaks into your returns if you haven't already. Also be sure that if the power fails, the top tank can't back flow into the middle tank, since the path to the sump is impeded by the aforementioned check valve.
Ok, how do you do the siphon breaks?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11743564#post11743564 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by suppressivefire
Ok, how do you do the siphon breaks?

In your case you can't, because you are using drilled returns. We have the same problem at the store. When the power went out the other day, the floor had about 40 gallons of water on it.

The only thing you can do is have a sump big enough to hold all the water that will drain when the power goes out. Simulate a power outage after your setup, and hope for the best. If your sump won't hold all the water from the back syphon, I hope your tank isn't on the second floor :rolleyes:
 
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