400g system from scratch pictorial

I cleaned the tips with a soft bristled toothbrush, followed by a rinse in RO/DI water. I haven't tried soaking them in vinegar but I will as soon as my new calibration solutions arrive in a couple of days.

Btw, called up the lfs, and that was a 10"+ banded coral shrimp they have in their main tank. He looked like he would eat clowns for breakfast and tangs for dinner!
 
I believe I solved my probe situation. When immersing them in my mix tank, the readings returned to normal. Then, after floating them back in the sump, they got wacky again. After playing around with the routing of the sensor wires, things go tback to normal. Not sure what was up w/ that since it worked fine for 3 weeks with the wires in their original position. Anyway, I'm glad my reading have returned to normal.

I picked up a fist sized sea hare from the lfs this evening. After acclimating him, I let him loose on one of the "islands". He has already stripped 4 rocks completely clean of hair algae. That guy is a machine! I have no doubt the tank will be spotless in no time with him around. Once he gets done with the main tank, I got plenty of hair algae in the fuge for him to eat as well.

I took this shot of the whole tank showing the water being nice and clear. All pumps were running in this shot.

crystal1.jpg


I also saw several small worms darting around near the front glass of the tank and managed to snap a couple of shots. They appear to be attempting to burrow into the sand in the last couple of shots. I hope these are "good" worms.

worms1.jpg


worms2.jpg


worms3.jpg


I also got my dosing dump online in preparation for the calk reactor tomorrow. Right now I'm dosing 5.4 liters every 24 hours and with the lights on the display off, that seems to maintain the water level. I suspect that I might have to increase the rate, but I'll let it run this way overnight and adjust from there.
 
i dont think those are good worms look like flatowrms to me cant tell which ones though. A rookies opinion hey what the heck thought id pop in your thread NICE Tank iM using it as a guidline for my 180G visio

Any suggestions on Glass tanks, What if I dont get the eurobracing I dont liek it makes it hard to clean the tank would it hinder future performace issues for the seams if the tank..?
 
I'm quite happy with my AGA tank. Reasonably priced and they did a very good job with the silicone on mine. As far as cleaning the inside glass, my Hammerhead magnet will get everything but the extreme top where the black plastic bracing is. However, when the canopy is on, you can't tell.

I was afraid those might be flatworms. They are very fast swimmers and they were almost impossible to photograph.
 
Which dosing pump are you using for the calc reactor?

Btw, those aren't flatworms. They're pretty common and normally come out at night. Not a problem IMHO.

Thanks,

Art
 
Art, I'm using the Nautilis-2 from reefdosingpumps.com for kalk (calc reactor is using a Mag3, not a dosing pump). They sell on ebay with no minimum, so you can get lucky and pick them up for around 100 bucks. Here is a shot of it dosing at 224 mL/hr (displayed value * 2.8 since I'm using the high volume tubing set). So that works out to ~5.4 liter every 24 hours. That flow rate was enough to maintain the level in the sump overnight. We'll see how things go during the day today with the lights on and warmer temps. I have a float switch plugged into the back of it that will shut it down when the water in the sump reach a present level. The idea is to dial in the pump to just above the evap rate. That way, should the float switch ever fail, very little excess water will be added to the system and a flood will likely be preventable.

Here is a shot of it with the 1/4" O.D. tubing connected and operating.

nautilis2-1.jpg


I'm glad to hear those are harmless worms. I wonder if they came with the rock, or if the sea hare brought them with him. They showed up about the same time he did. I will definitely be guaranteeing all future livestock (other than the sand activator package and snails that are coming on Thursday).

And here is Mr. Hare at work. He's actually a cute "little" (about the size of a woman's fist) guy.

seahare1.jpg
 
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Is this dosing pump your sole source for topoff? If so, 5.4 liters doesn't seem like it'll keep up with your evaporation to me - especially with all of those open tubs.

On my 215 gall with 150gal sump and 175gal refugium, I had my litermeter III set for 25 liters a day during the summer. This was a little bit too much and was throttled by a float switch (similar to what you're doing). I went with the LM (~$260) because the other dosing pumps didn't have the capacity. Now I've switched to using a $15 air pump and it's worked fine for a year.

I originally thought you were using the dosing pump for your calc reactor, which is something I'm considering in order to get a finer control of the effluent rate. It's difficult to do with a pump on some reactors.

Thanks for the info,

Art
 
It does seem a bit low to me as well. That pump will dose as much as 20 liters/day. I was expecting my evap rate to be around 10 liters/day since I don't run any fans anywhere. I should have it dialed in within a couple of days so I'll know for sure. Yes, that is my sole source for top off.

As for the calc reactor, I plan on feeding it with a MaxiJet 1200 in the sump and adjusting the effluent to about 50 ml/hr via a small gate valve. Since the pressure will be constant, I'm hoping it will stay fairly accurate. Ditto on my bubble count on the CO2 regulator. It should have a precise needle valve, so I hope it will. I also plan to rig my 2nd pH probe to the first reaction chamber so that the solenoid will cut off the CO2 in case it drops below 6.5. This is all straight out of the MRC manual, so who knows how this will work out in practice...
 
Well, I had a similar setup on my K2R reactor...Feeding directly with a maxi-jet and using 1/4" gatevalve on the effluent output. I also had 2 percision needle valves on my CO2 reg - I still had problems with the effluent and bubble count skewing over time. More so with the effluent rate once I put two needlevalves in place on the reg.

On my new tank I'm using a Jetstream-1 which are suppose to be even more finicky about the flow rate - which is why I asked about the dosing pump.

Thanks and good luck.

Art
 
pclausen said:
Went to the lfs yesterday looking for a sw pH test kit, but they didn't have one. I did pick up 12 Cerith snails and a rather large banded coral shrimp. He (or likely she) was only $8 and appears to have a body of at least 3" already. I understand that these guys are considered reef safe but that some have had issues with them. Very cool looking shrimp. I drip acclimated her for 1 hour and in she went. She crawled around the front of the rocks briefly before settling upside down in the first cave she found. I feed her a little brime shrimp last night with a turkey baster and she literally jumped forward after it. She is still doing fine this morning. If she causes problems down the road, I'll move her to the 55g.

Keep an eye on that Banded Coral Shrimp. They have a tendency to go after many things who happen to pass infront of their lair. Also they might damage your corals trying to steal food from them. IMO they are not "reef safe".
 
I'll keep an eye on him Mike. He is very cool to watch I must say (then again, I only have him and the sea hare to look at so far :lol: )

Finally received the kalk reactor today. I got it online and here is my initial programming for the mixing pump:

If Time > 00:00 Then PM6 OFF
If Time > 01:00 Then PM6 ON
If Time > 01:05 Then PM6 OFF
If Time > 04:00 Then PM6 ON
If Time > 04:05 Then PM6 OFF
If Time > 12:00 Then PM6 ON
If Time > 12:05 Then PM6 OFF
If Time > 21:00 Then PM6 ON
If Time > 21:05 Then PM6 OFF

Here it is in action:

kalk1.jpg


I still have to get my evap rate dialed in better. Instead of slowly working my way up, I'm going to work my way down from the max setting. But it looks like I'll end up pretty close to the max flow of this dosing pump which is 20 liters/day.

I also changed my order for the 1/3 hp chiller to inline as opposed to drop-in. It will be a lot easier to insert it into the 1.5" return line to the tank than dealing with routing the exhaust through a hole in my cinder block wall to the outside. I'll tap the return line in the adjacent basement room. I guess the only issue will be that the tank will be disconnected from the rest of the system during the process. I wonder how long I need to let the pvc glue dry before I can turn things back on? I of course will do all the plumbing leading up to the return line ahead of time until the very last possible moment.
 
you said your temp really spiked when you powered up the skimmer. since it's already moded for recirculating you might as well run it external instead of submerged in your sump to reduce heat input
 
That's not a bad idea merlock, but those ASM skimmers aren't 100% water tight even with the recirc mod. This is mostly due to a less than perfect seal at the skimmer cup to neck quick connect. I also don't really have the room to place it outside the sump any longer with everything I have crammed into this rather small room. I think the 1/3 hp in-line chiller will easily be able to drop my temp a few degrees which is all I need.

I got my sand activator package and additional snails yesterday. There were a lot of bristle and spaghetti worms that all disappeared into the sand bed within an hour or two. Also got a several very small serpent stars that also disappeared from site in no time. The pods were quite large and easily visible to the naked eye. I got perhaps 30 of those. There were also a number of tiny star fish (smaller than your fingernail).

As to the snails, the Trochus rocks. They just cruise across all surfaces with ease. The Strombus are also very pretty and move about with ease. The Nerite snails are not really doing that well, and few are on the rocks and glass, but most seem to be lifeless on the sandbed. They didn't "put their foot out" when trying to stick them onto the glass at the water surface. I didn't specifically ask for these, but they came with the package and I unfortunately think that their days may be numbered. With that said, the Cerith, Trochus and Strombus are all doing great. Still need to get some Nassarius, but I'll hold off until I can combine it with something else to safe on shipping.

Dripping kalk with my auto top-off seems to be going well. I plan to run a full suite of tests again tomorrow, including magnesium. My evap rate appears to be pretty close to 5 gallons, so it pretty much maxes out the capacity of my dosing pump. I plan to add some marks to my sump to better judge the exact rate.

In other news, I got my temporary QT tank up and running with its first inhabitants. I say temporary because this is a 55g and I plan to turn it into a FOWLR or something once the 180g is stocked and then have a smaller QT tank in the future.

All I got in it is a heater and a canister filter running nothing but foam pads and carbon. I had it running on the main tank for a little over a week to help jump start it, and I filled it with water from the main system (its located within 10 feet of the main tank).

Here it is:

qttank1.jpg


And a close up of the sole inhabitants at this time:

clowns1.jpg


Both Perculas appear healthy, they eat and readily swim up to the glass when approached. I'll be sure to monitor ammonia and nitrites, but with a water volume of 55g + the canister, I don't expect that they will create much ammonia at all. Detritus and uneaten food will be vacuumed out on a regular basis as well. I'll keep them in here for at least 2 weeks before releasing them into the main tank. Once I do, I plan on putting 3 Yellow Tangs in the QT.
 
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You could always use water that has already cycled from your main tank for water in the qt as well. Just not vice versa.
 
I lose a gallon a day on my nano and you only lose 5 on your mega tank. Unbelievable. I have really enjoyed this thread and i must admit more than just a little jealousy has been provoked.

Carl
 
scotty1234 said:
You could always use water that has already cycled from your main tank for water in the qt as well. Just not vice versa.

That's what I did. I just re-read my previous post and I realize it sounded like only the canister was filled with water from the established tank. The entire 55g tank was filled with cycled water from the main tank. In addition to that, the canister had been running on the main tank for a week. Perhaps I'm just being overly concerned about a mini-cycle in the QT tank now that I have my first actual sw fish.
 
Carl_in_Florida said:
I lose a gallon a day on my nano and you only lose 5 on your mega tank. Unbelievable.

That sure seems like a lot Carl. Is your air very dry? I wouldn't think so being that you're in Florida. The air is pretty humid here in Virginia during the summer, but dry in the winter. Perhaps I'll have more evap issues once the climate gets cooler?

You do bring up a good point that I hadn't thought of and that is make sure I keep an eye on the salinity level in the qt tank since there is no auto-top off on it. For a FO, what is an acceptable salinity variation? Right now I'm at 1.026. Will a drop to 1.024 be ok, or should I try to keep it above 1.025?
 
There is some variance in SG in my tanks because I don't have auto top off systems. SG ranges from 1.024 to 1.026, though target SG is 1.025.
 
Since there is no sump you can just watch the level in the tank and throw in RO/Di every couple days, though i doubt you will do something this simple. ;)

I have a fan blowing directly at my sump to keep the temp down. It is amazing how modifications cause a chain reaction.
I got a sump just so i could do a fuge. the Mag 7 caused the tank to get really hot, so i use a fan to cool it, which causes increadable evap so I had to set up an auto topoff to deal with that. In the end, i realize that the fuge was not that much of a benefit so now i just have a sump with chaeto and a gallon a day evap.

Carl
 
well since you don't have room, maybe you can just build a little platform in your sump and just raise it higher out of the water. then if it does leak it'll just go back into your sump.

or if you do find room somewhere else put it in a little container also that overflows into your sump to catch leaks.
 
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