400g system from scratch pictorial

I would wait on the anenome. They need stable environments that usually aren't achieved with new tanks until at least 6 months.

I'm glad you're planning on QT - too many ppl don't and wish they had.

Can you post a picture of the return manifold now that you have capped some of the returns?

IMHO, if you have to transport the rock like that after it is cured, it may be too much work to not cure it in the main tank.

I would cure the LR in the tank until the "cycle" is finished (0 ammonia, nitrites, low/no nitrates) and then put the sand in. This way you'll bury a few inches of your rock thus making it stable and not allow burrowing animals to disrupt it.

John
 
Here is a pic of the manifold after capping 6 outlets (total is now 10). Flow is much better, but I'm thinking of adding some restrictors on the loc-lines close to where the flow enters the manifold to even things out even more. However, the flow from the outlets opposite the pump is now excellent.

manifoldtop2.jpg


And here is a shot from the front with the canopy removed, lights raised and the CL pump running.

canopyoff.jpg
 
At this point, I think my plan will be to create a PVC 'rack' for the rocks to rest on and cure them in the display before adding the sand. With 400g of water, the ability to do 44g daily water changes, and a skimmer rated at over 1000g, I think it will work out ok.

It is a major trek to get from the fishroom up to the main tank, so not dragging the rocks down to the basement in the first place will be a lot easier.

I took a couple more pics this morning. Here is a shot of the sink and RO/DI containers in the fishroom. I changed the plumbing around a bit to accommodate a utility sink. I feel it will be well worth the effort. Btw, the fishroom is octagonal shaped.

sink.jpg


And here is the drain line being connected to the existing plumbing. Fortunately, the 2x4 wall isn't load bearing as there is a cinder block wall behind it. It was still a pain to drill all those 2 5/8" holes through all the 2x4's!

drain.jpg


AquaController II has been permanently connected to a computer and AquaNotes has been installed and the control program tweaked to meet my needs. The web interface is up and running and can be accessed from the outside. I have tested that I get sent email notifications when an alarm condition occurs.

rackback.jpg


I'm concerned about humidity in the fishroom since all my home theater and network equipment is located in a closet in the fishroom and the fishroom is also hosting a pair of custom built subwoofers made out of 1" MDF. Fortunately the cabinets have been primed, so hopefully humidity won't affect them.

Here is a shot of the front of the racks and you can just make out part of the fishroom to the right.

rackfront.jpg


I picked up a 180 cfm exhaust fan that I'll be installing in the fishroom to pull out moist air, but unfortunately I only have a 4" PVC vent through the cinder block wall to work with. I'm thinking of putting up a plastic sheet to act as a vapor barrier between the equipment closet/subs and the rest of the fishroom.
 
I would be VERY concerned having all of my electronics in the same room as my fishroom. The humidity will wreak havoc with all of that in a closed environment.

It looks like there was a door there behind the a/v racks. Instead of the vapor barrier, you could put the door back up and put some kind of weather stripping around it to help seal it tight. To keep air moving, cut a hole or holes in the door to mount the fans in blowing air OUT into the fishroom, not in, to draw heat off the electronics/circulation purposes.

Otherwise, looks great!

John
 
Yes, there is a door behind the racks that will seal off the equipment from the fishroom and it will be closed at all times. It is still there, I just opened it all the way to take the picture. Good idea on adding weather stripping, I'll go ahead and do that.

I also like the idea of adding a fan to the door to push air into the fishroom. This air will then in turn get pulled out to the outside via the exhaust fan.

I also have a dehumidifier that I can place in the fishroom, but I'm hoping I don't have to resort to that. I could also run an A/C duct to the fishroom, but I don't really want to make it a high pressure zone.
 
I strongly urge, especially if your married, to not only cure your LR outside your tank but outside your house....ie..in the garage. I purchase 400lbs of uncured Marshall LR from Premium two months ago. It arrives HOT!! The stench the first few days is unbelievable. Good circulation and water changes....my rock is now clean and gorgeous. I know there are advocates of curing LR in the tank out there, but after seeing what comes off the uncured Marshall LR, I do not want that in my tank. I want clean rock in my tank. What I may loose in bacteria, pods, etc....is more than made up for by less algae, cyano, etc..
 
I hear you Curt. I do have a wife, and if it really is going to stink up the whole place, I might have to think twice about curing in the tank although this sure would be the easiest way to go in my case.

Moving along, I got done with most of the plumbing for the RO/DO holding tanks. Basically the RO/DI unit dumps into the lower container. A Mag 9.5 controlled via X10 then pumps water up to the upper tank once every 24 hours or manually during water changes. The upper tank does auto top off into the sump via a float switch. The upper tank also gravity feeds to my 44g sw mixing tank. That darn Mag pump leaked out the o-ring seal, even after I took it apart and cleaned everything. So I siliconed the cover back on the second time around. Being that all it will ever pump is RO/DI water, I don't see it needing cleaning ever again. There is a 1" stand pipe in the upper tank that drains into the lower one, so I can run the pump as long as I want without any danger of spilling. The 1.5" ball valve you see is for pumping sump water into the sink for water changes. There is also a 1/2" ball valve for pumping RO/DI water into the sink for cleaning stuff with RO/DI water.

roditanks.jpg


I went picked up this used CR-2 from a fellow RC'er down in Blacksburg this past week. It has been recommended that I should use the pH monitor/controller you see here to manage the CR-2 and only use the AquaController to monitor the pH of the main tank. I might add a secondary X10 control of the solenoid in case pH drops too low, but the Milwaukee controller should not allow that to happen in the first place I suppose.

cr2.jpg


I have been working on the electrical layout and here is what I have come up with as far as how to wire everything. Each 20A circuit will be pulling 1750 watts with everything on. Most everything will be controlled by the AquaController II.

electrical.gif


Various receptacles will be located along the walls in the fishroom near the equipment to be controlled. Everything will be running through 3/4" conduit back to a central control panel. This control panel will house 11 X10 relays along with status LEDs of each controlled device. I'm not sure if I'll install push bottoms in the panel for manually controlling the devices. The reason being that I also run Homeseer since my whole house is X10, so I have the ability to turn any device on and off from a Pocket PC, a wireless touch pad, any laptop, or workstation throughout the house. This might end up being a pain when working in the fishroom, so I might install a pair of X10 control pads next to the control box. We'll see.

Ok, here is a shot of my wire feeder for pulling all the wiring through the conduit in the fishroom.

wirepull.jpg


Fortunately, I installed this generator a few years back. It is plumbed into an 500g in ground propane tank, so I'll be able to keep the reef going for weeks if I loose power.

generator.jpg


Here is a shot of my messy workshop where I have been playing with PVC for the last couple of weeks. You can see the automatic transfer swith in the background along with the 24 circuits below it that are on the generator.

xferswitch.jpg
 
Very nice, actually looks like one of my friend's place =D except he had an air vent for everything w/ a commerical fans with sensors for humidity etc.
 
The mess that curt detailed is the mess i was referring to regarding curing rock. I could be completely wrong but seeing how meticulous you are with this install (and the wiring from your breakers into the celing) I think it is going to pain you to watch the mess that rock is going to make in the tank that is in the middle of your living room for 2 months. Not to mention the siphoning and tank scrubbing you are going to have to do during the curing process of uncurred rock.

Did you still have enough room on the generator breaker box for your tank breakers? I would think that people normally have those full right from install. Is that a 200 Amp generator? just curious.

This is lookin like a well planned install.

Carl
 
If I was to go with cured rock instead which is only $0.50 more per pound, I take it there would be a whole lot less of a mess and doing the final curing in the tank would be less problematic?

That would likely be cheaper overall compared to getting another 150g stock tank for the garage for curing, not to mention the pain of moving my skimmer and rig up for water changes?

Carl, my house has 2 200A panels which were perhaps 60% loaded when I purchased the house. I then finished the basement and just about used them all up. When I added the generator, I went with a 24 circuit one, which is 100%. I'll need to move a few circuits to make space for the 2 reef circuits, but that's not a problem.

That's a 8kw generator, so around 66A @ 120V, or 33A @ 240V.
 
I think i asked the question wrong. That looked like a 200 amp panel that was connected to your generator switchover panel. That was my real question.

Again, I am no expert on rock curing but uncurred rock makes an increadible mess in my opinion.

The curred stuff (thogh still requiring a bit of curing due to shipping) will be less nasty.

carl
 
how much would something cost like that? i mean the automatic generator transfer? i need to get one for my 180? BUT just for the 180 nothing else in the house needs to be run, just the 180!

thanks!

Nick
 
This setup is a total WOW!

I suggest 25 / 75 on the rock
-get some uncured rock and stick it in the sump area...leave it there after it cures or move it to the reef later
-get the majority of rock cured, and put it into the reef.

very nice electrical setup on the home and reef. One note, I have read here a few months back of an individual who had their reef on a computer controller connected to the web. It was hacked while he was away, and the tank was nearly lost. What kind of internet access/security do you have on these systems (home and reef)?

That tank looks fantastic, and I think you'll be very happy with it!
 
Nick, my 8KW Generac w/ 100A transfer switch was around $3000. They don't make the 8KW anymore, but they have a 6KW that runs about $2300 including the transfer switch. Northern Tool and Equipment sells these, among others.

I don't think you're going to find a setup for much less than $2000 that includes electric start and a transfer switch.

I wanted to hook it up to a 400A transfer switch and do the whole house without having to relocate circuits to a sub-panel, but a 400A transfer switch would have cost more than the whole generator.

Ich, I do have a router w/ a firewall on my incoming connection, but this reminds me to go ahead and download the latest firmware for it!

That darn Mag 9.5 is leaking still, even after I siliconed it. Looking at it closely, it looks like it has a hairline crack in the housing. My other 9.5 has one too. These pumps were both used in my wet/dry sump from when the 180 was a cichlid tank and leaks obviously weren't a problem then. This sucks as I was really hoping to be able to re-use those pumps for fishroom duty. Are Mag pumps rated for use outside a sump?
 
$2000 installed is about 10-15 % of what i thought that generator and transfer switch was.

I helped install one with a 150W transfer swich that cost 20k just for the hardware.

Carl
 
WOW Carl 20k?

i thought they would be around 3 or 4 grand to get a setup like this,

pclausen- do you really think i need that big of a generator? i mean its only a 180, yours is a bit bigger.

also do i need a gas supply like yours?

my neighbor is an electrcian (retired) so he said he would help me install it. so you think about 3000 for everything i need?

thanks again!

Nick
 
i hope you dont mind if i ask you a question i do not want to de-rail this thread, but you seem to know what you are talking about,

so here are my 2 opitions rember this is going to run my 180 only and NOTHING in the house,

"Guardian
12000 Watt Home Standby Generator
Model 04456

24/7 blackout protection whether you're home or away. Fully automatic home standby generator comes pre-packaged and pre-wired with an automatic transfer switch. Unit operates on either natural gas (12,000 watts) or LP gas (12,000 watts.) 26 HP OHVI Industrial engine with full pressure lubrication. Includes composite mounting pad for quick installation.

ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚¢ 12000 watts (LP or NG)
ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚¢ UL Listed 2200
ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚¢ 26 HP OHVI Industrial engine
ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚¢ Automatic blackout protection
ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚¢ Automatic transfer switch with built-in load center
ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚¢ Includes: 30 ft., 5 ft. & 2 ft. pre-wired conduits, outdoor connection box, flexible fuel line and composite mounting pad"

this one above is 2700

and then this one is alittle smaller,

"Guardian
7000/6000 Watt Home Standby Generator
Model 04389

24/7 blackout protection whether you're home or away. Fully automatic home standby generator comes pre-packaged and pre-wired with an automatic transfer switch. Unit operates on either natural gas (6,000 watts) or LP gas (7,000 watts.) 14.5 HP OHVI Industrial engine with full pressure lubrication. Includes composite mounting pad for quick installation.

ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚¢ Automatic transfer switch with built-in load center
ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚¢ Includes: 30 ft., 5 ft. & 2 ft. pre-wired conduits, outdoor connection box, flexible fuel line and composite mounting pad
ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚¢ 14.5 HP OHVI Industrial engine
ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚¢ UL Listed 2200
ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚¢ 7000 watts (LP) / 6000 watts (NG)
ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚¢ Automatic blackout protection"

this one is about 1900

do you think the first smaller one will be ok? do you think it can run my 180?

or do you have a link to a better one? these are both from the Homedepot,

thanks again!

Nick
 
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