400g system from scratch pictorial
- Thread starter pclausen
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pclausen
New member
I'll keep an eye out for the sand James! Yeah, the old lattice had been nailed on from the inside somehow, so I wasn't able to get it off without busting it up. Once I get the wall caps installed, I'll have to decide on how to get the new pieces mounted.
Steve, fortunately I have a covered front porch that extends out some 15 feet, and the landscaping from there slopes away from the house, so I think I'll be in good shape. Having said that, I'm thinking of at least making a mound of sorts around the hole just in case. I must say through, that working in that confined space on the dirt and hot humid 90+ degree weather, struggling to anchor that drill press to the vertical wall twice, was not a pleasant experience.
I discovered a new hitchhiker, a fuzzy crab. I did a search on here and I'm getting conflicting input on this being a good vs. bad crab. Some call it a "teddy bear crab" that is supposedly ok, others link it with the gorilla crab, meaning he has to go. He has small black claws which I understand is generally a bad sign. But I also heard that these are common on MI rock and that they are harmless. I tried to catch him w/ some tongs last night, but that wasn't working out. He and my banded coral shrimp hang out in the same cave, presumably because that's where I've been feeding the shrimp. The two of them will face off for food scraps, but the shrimp typically wins, although the crab will lounge out at the shrimp now and again and the shrimp will jump back since it startles him.
Here is a shot of the crab. Does he need to go? You can just make out the shrimp in the background.
And a better shot of just the shrimp.
Steve, fortunately I have a covered front porch that extends out some 15 feet, and the landscaping from there slopes away from the house, so I think I'll be in good shape. Having said that, I'm thinking of at least making a mound of sorts around the hole just in case. I must say through, that working in that confined space on the dirt and hot humid 90+ degree weather, struggling to anchor that drill press to the vertical wall twice, was not a pleasant experience.
I discovered a new hitchhiker, a fuzzy crab. I did a search on here and I'm getting conflicting input on this being a good vs. bad crab. Some call it a "teddy bear crab" that is supposedly ok, others link it with the gorilla crab, meaning he has to go. He has small black claws which I understand is generally a bad sign. But I also heard that these are common on MI rock and that they are harmless. I tried to catch him w/ some tongs last night, but that wasn't working out. He and my banded coral shrimp hang out in the same cave, presumably because that's where I've been feeding the shrimp. The two of them will face off for food scraps, but the shrimp typically wins, although the crab will lounge out at the shrimp now and again and the shrimp will jump back since it startles him.
Here is a shot of the crab. Does he need to go? You can just make out the shrimp in the background.
And a better shot of just the shrimp.
Bax
Premium Member
If the pinchers are similar to crab you'd get at a Red Lobster, it's a bad crab. If they are flater less pointy as in made for scraping algea, it may be good. You can't really see the claws in the pic.
It is a real problem catching these guys. Ihave cought some with luck and a pair of tongs, others, I have pulled out the rock they are on and others I have built intricate traps for.
New ones seem to emerge from my TBS and Tonga mix of rock all the time.
It is a real problem catching these guys. Ihave cought some with luck and a pair of tongs, others, I have pulled out the rock they are on and others I have built intricate traps for.
New ones seem to emerge from my TBS and Tonga mix of rock all the time.
pclausen
New member
I think I'll be able to catch him w/ a pair of tongs by luring him with a piece of shrimp. I can get him to come out on command now by dropping a small piece of raw cocktail shrimp on the sand below his hideout.
I was away this weekend, but just got a chance to run a suite of water tests, and these are the results:
My pH is averaging 8.1, so I modified my program slightly to increase the kalk mix pump to run for 7 instead of 5 minutes during the times when the pH is lowest. I'm aiming for raising the pH slightly to an average of 8.2. I would think that would also increase kH and Ca slightly, which would be just about right from what I can tell, as I seem to have plateaued at around 7.8 and 375, respectively. I think I'm getting real close to being dialed in.
Temp is also very stable @ 81 degrees, never going above or below that set point by more than 0.4 degrees.
I introduced the 2 clowns and a bi-color dottyback (was sold to me as a royal gamma but after looking it up online, I found that it was a dotty). At any rate, all 3 were in quarantine for 14+ days, but the dotty and one of the clowns are showing signs if ich after 3 days in the display. So back in the qt tank they all go over the next couple of days for a 40 day regimen of hyposalinity. 40 days should also rid the main system of any ich as there will be no hosts for it.
I never did run copper and drop sg to 1.009 during the initial qt period. I just observed the fish, which all seemed healthy and willing to eat. From now on, all new fish will get 40 days of hypotreatment before being introduced into the main system. I'm glad I learned this lesson before I had a tank full of fish!
I went to a lfs in Richmond on my way home yesterday and ended up picking up a huge LTA has had just been returned since it outgrew the previous owners tank. I dug a starter hole for him where the sand meets the rock and sat him in it. Now, 30 hours later, he is still in the same spot and looking up at the glass bottom from below, I see that he dug his foot all the way down to the glass bottom. I wasn't able to find any silverside for him, but to my delight, he devoured a large piece of raw shrimp in like 30 seconds just now.
I know it is recommended to wait at least 6 month before introducing an anemone to a new tank, but given my stable parameters and water volume, it has been suggested that I could go ahead with one, and it seems to be holding true so far. I'm keeping my fingers crossed, but I think the fact that he's firmly planted and eating is a very good sign.
Here is a pic of him.
And a up-close shot.
He's brown with a hint of green on several tentacles. All the anemones at the lfs here in town are white/bleached. This guy looks much healthier.
Finally, here is a shot of my fuge. Sure looks a lot different from a month ago when it was very sterile looking. Pumps are off in this shot, so the chaeto ball is resting on the bottom, but it normally tumbles near the surface. It has doubled in size since I got it!
Oh, and thanks for the sand James! It showed up on the 2nd day from when you posted and nothing leaked! There were a couple of snails in there as well.
I was away this weekend, but just got a chance to run a suite of water tests, and these are the results:
My pH is averaging 8.1, so I modified my program slightly to increase the kalk mix pump to run for 7 instead of 5 minutes during the times when the pH is lowest. I'm aiming for raising the pH slightly to an average of 8.2. I would think that would also increase kH and Ca slightly, which would be just about right from what I can tell, as I seem to have plateaued at around 7.8 and 375, respectively. I think I'm getting real close to being dialed in.
Temp is also very stable @ 81 degrees, never going above or below that set point by more than 0.4 degrees.
I introduced the 2 clowns and a bi-color dottyback (was sold to me as a royal gamma but after looking it up online, I found that it was a dotty). At any rate, all 3 were in quarantine for 14+ days, but the dotty and one of the clowns are showing signs if ich after 3 days in the display. So back in the qt tank they all go over the next couple of days for a 40 day regimen of hyposalinity. 40 days should also rid the main system of any ich as there will be no hosts for it.
I never did run copper and drop sg to 1.009 during the initial qt period. I just observed the fish, which all seemed healthy and willing to eat. From now on, all new fish will get 40 days of hypotreatment before being introduced into the main system. I'm glad I learned this lesson before I had a tank full of fish!
I went to a lfs in Richmond on my way home yesterday and ended up picking up a huge LTA has had just been returned since it outgrew the previous owners tank. I dug a starter hole for him where the sand meets the rock and sat him in it. Now, 30 hours later, he is still in the same spot and looking up at the glass bottom from below, I see that he dug his foot all the way down to the glass bottom. I wasn't able to find any silverside for him, but to my delight, he devoured a large piece of raw shrimp in like 30 seconds just now.
I know it is recommended to wait at least 6 month before introducing an anemone to a new tank, but given my stable parameters and water volume, it has been suggested that I could go ahead with one, and it seems to be holding true so far. I'm keeping my fingers crossed, but I think the fact that he's firmly planted and eating is a very good sign.
Here is a pic of him.
And a up-close shot.
He's brown with a hint of green on several tentacles. All the anemones at the lfs here in town are white/bleached. This guy looks much healthier.
Finally, here is a shot of my fuge. Sure looks a lot different from a month ago when it was very sterile looking. Pumps are off in this shot, so the chaeto ball is resting on the bottom, but it normally tumbles near the surface. It has doubled in size since I got it!
Oh, and thanks for the sand James! It showed up on the 2nd day from when you posted and nothing leaked! There were a couple of snails in there as well.
merlock116
New member
is that semi-blocked (by chiller ducting) door lead to a closet or to another room?
if it's another room put the door on the other side of the wall.
if it's another room put the door on the other side of the wall.
pclausen
New member
Merlock, that's just a closet that contains my pressure tank and whole house booster pump. No need to access it on a regular basis.
Thank's for the tip on making sure to get sw silversides. I went to a couple of seafood shops yesterday and they all gave me a blank stare when I asked for silversides. I understand that bait shops and perhaps lfs carries it as well?
From the looks of things, he appears willing to eat just about anything I feed him, so from what you guys are saying, anything meaty from the ocean will do?
I'm kinda bummed about having to start the qt thing all over again, but better now than later. The clowns will be easy to catch since they swim right up against the glass greeting me when I'm there. The dotty hides in the rocks all the time. He's got a favorite rock full of caves that he hides in, so I'm hoping to be able to lift it, and then put a large net around it and pull out the whole thing. Should make for an interesting event!
Thank's for the tip on making sure to get sw silversides. I went to a couple of seafood shops yesterday and they all gave me a blank stare when I asked for silversides. I understand that bait shops and perhaps lfs carries it as well?
From the looks of things, he appears willing to eat just about anything I feed him, so from what you guys are saying, anything meaty from the ocean will do?
I'm kinda bummed about having to start the qt thing all over again, but better now than later. The clowns will be easy to catch since they swim right up against the glass greeting me when I'm there. The dotty hides in the rocks all the time. He's got a favorite rock full of caves that he hides in, so I'm hoping to be able to lift it, and then put a large net around it and pull out the whole thing. Should make for an interesting event!
WILDTHING
New member
pclausen said:
The FW silversides are really FW smelt. I think if you went to the beach area you might be more likely to find a SW bait, just a guess. If you can't find the Lance/silversides by you let me know and I'll pick you up a bag at my LPS, they usually carry them. I agree that since he seems willing to eat, it would probably be better for him if you feed a good variety of things. I went to the Asian market in C'ville and they had frozen mandarin fish which I also offer to my carpet. BTW if your guy is anything like my guy be prepared to find a neat little "packet" of undigested bones and miss pieces of fish the next morning. I usually try to find it and remove it before the worms get at it as its a pretty good sized hunk and I like to remove it before it starts to degrade. I've never had a LTA so I don't know if it acts the same as a carpet but I thought I'd let you know so you can be on the look out. I was pretty surprised when I noticed the first one and had to pull it apart to figure out what it was.
pclausen
New member
Thanks Colleen. I'm heading to Staunton today to look for some silversides at Pets-n-Pals. Where is the Asian market in C'ville you are referring to? I haven't really noticed any "packets" from the LTA yet. I do gently blow him clean w/ the turkey baster as small amounts of sand/silt does seem to collect on him. I have to be careful not to let one of his tentacles get sucked up into the baster through.
Unfortunately, my bi-color dotty didn't make it. I found him in a semi-decomposed state on the sand bed when I got home yesterday.
The 2 clowns, on the other hands, are looking much better. I don't see any visible signs of ich, although one of them has a very small cotton looking ball near one of his gills. It looks to be getting smaller, so I'll keep an eye on it. I'm not sure I should put the fish through the stress of capturing them and moving them back to the qt tank again just yet. Might also begin to soak their food in garlic just as a preventive measure.
My banded coral shrimp molted yesterday. Before the molt he was missing one antenna, now he has all 6. I've read that iodine levels must be at the proper levels in order for them to molt properly. I have never tested for it, but I assume my levels must be ok since he looks fine.
Here you see the molt in the lower left corner. I understand I should leave the old molt in the tank? So that's what I've done.
I did end up also picking up a cleanup crew from reeftopia after all which included a bunch of turbos. I must say they have done an excellent job of completely eliminating all remaining algae in the tank. I moved a good portion of them (and hermits) to the 100g fuge, which is also looking much better now. The package also included a good number of Nassarius snails which is the main reason I got the package since I couldn't locate those snails locally and once you figured in shipping and the discount for getting a package, I went for the package.
I also picked up the following with the order and they all seem to be doing great and the banded coral shrimp is leaving them all alone:
2 Emerald Crabs
2 Lettuce Nudibranch
2 Sea Cucumbers
2 Flame Scallops
1 Feather Duster
2 Extra Large Peppermint Shrimp
2 Serpent Stars
The Emeralds are busy plucking the rocks all day, the Nudibranch are cruising the glass and rocks, the cucumbers skim the sand surface at night, the feather duster stays open all the time, and the Peppermints and serpents come out when I feed the tank.
My sea hare also roams the tank each night, but I think I'll need to start thinking about taking him back to the lfs or begin feeding him since the tank is virtually algae free at this point.
Btw, my feeding regiment is as follows:
8 am small pinch of flake or a sliver of my Cyclop-eeze bar.
6 pm 40 drops of Phyto-Feast, and rotating between 1/4 cube of Mysis, Brime and Formula One frozen food.
I also feed the clowns a little Cyclop-eeze around 10 pm every other night. Those guys are always hungry!
Unfortunately, my bi-color dotty didn't make it. I found him in a semi-decomposed state on the sand bed when I got home yesterday.
The 2 clowns, on the other hands, are looking much better. I don't see any visible signs of ich, although one of them has a very small cotton looking ball near one of his gills. It looks to be getting smaller, so I'll keep an eye on it. I'm not sure I should put the fish through the stress of capturing them and moving them back to the qt tank again just yet. Might also begin to soak their food in garlic just as a preventive measure.My banded coral shrimp molted yesterday. Before the molt he was missing one antenna, now he has all 6. I've read that iodine levels must be at the proper levels in order for them to molt properly. I have never tested for it, but I assume my levels must be ok since he looks fine.
Here you see the molt in the lower left corner. I understand I should leave the old molt in the tank? So that's what I've done.
I did end up also picking up a cleanup crew from reeftopia after all which included a bunch of turbos. I must say they have done an excellent job of completely eliminating all remaining algae in the tank. I moved a good portion of them (and hermits) to the 100g fuge, which is also looking much better now. The package also included a good number of Nassarius snails which is the main reason I got the package since I couldn't locate those snails locally and once you figured in shipping and the discount for getting a package, I went for the package.
I also picked up the following with the order and they all seem to be doing great and the banded coral shrimp is leaving them all alone:
2 Emerald Crabs
2 Lettuce Nudibranch
2 Sea Cucumbers
2 Flame Scallops
1 Feather Duster
2 Extra Large Peppermint Shrimp
2 Serpent Stars
The Emeralds are busy plucking the rocks all day, the Nudibranch are cruising the glass and rocks, the cucumbers skim the sand surface at night, the feather duster stays open all the time, and the Peppermints and serpents come out when I feed the tank.
My sea hare also roams the tank each night, but I think I'll need to start thinking about taking him back to the lfs or begin feeding him since the tank is virtually algae free at this point.
Btw, my feeding regiment is as follows:
8 am small pinch of flake or a sliver of my Cyclop-eeze bar.
6 pm 40 drops of Phyto-Feast, and rotating between 1/4 cube of Mysis, Brime and Formula One frozen food.
I also feed the clowns a little Cyclop-eeze around 10 pm every other night. Those guys are always hungry!
scotty1234
New member
pclausen said:
These will require a lot of food, might want to consider trading them for something a little less demanding. I've been told that the Sea Hares will accept Nori but never tried it myself.
pclausen
New member
I'll keep that in mind Scott. So far they seem content with the Phyto-Feast, but I guess it's hard to judge how they are really doing. Is there a way to spot feed these guys?
I took another set of water tests this morning, and here are the results:
Calcium has dropped to the levels they were at a month ago when I first began dosing kalk, so I think I'm going to go ahead and put my calc reactor online, especially since I now have some corals in my tank.
I hosted a meet last night and WILDTHING, Limulus and tack-msv were here. WILDTHING and tack-msv both hooked my up w/ all kind of stuff. I took some pics this morning, so let me see if I got my notes straight as far as what's what. Keep in mind that the corals have been in the tank for less than 10 hours, so a lot of them haven't opened up yet, not to mention my camera skills still leave a lot to be desired as far as true colors and what not.
Yellow Acro (table top?)
Pink Acro
Green Pocillipora
Pink Pocillipora
Light brown zoo w/ orange centers & some army green polyps mixed in
1 of 3 pink pulsing Xenia stalks
Anthelia
Leather (finger?)
Yellow zoo polyps
I took another set of water tests this morning, and here are the results:
Calcium has dropped to the levels they were at a month ago when I first began dosing kalk, so I think I'm going to go ahead and put my calc reactor online, especially since I now have some corals in my tank.
I hosted a meet last night and WILDTHING, Limulus and tack-msv were here. WILDTHING and tack-msv both hooked my up w/ all kind of stuff. I took some pics this morning, so let me see if I got my notes straight as far as what's what. Keep in mind that the corals have been in the tank for less than 10 hours, so a lot of them haven't opened up yet, not to mention my camera skills still leave a lot to be desired as far as true colors and what not.
Yellow Acro (table top?)
Pink Acro
Green Pocillipora
Pink Pocillipora
Light brown zoo w/ orange centers & some army green polyps mixed in
1 of 3 pink pulsing Xenia stalks
Anthelia
Leather (finger?)
Yellow zoo polyps
Last edited:
pclausen
New member
Green star polyps w/ a tiny orange suncoral attached
And here is a shot of the whole tank. You can make out the frags in the top left. You will also notice that I've re-arrange the rocks once again, creating a bridge of sorts between the two "islands".
Here is a link to a full rez version of the whole tank. Make sure you don't have your browser set to autosize images to fit your screen.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/tankhirez1.jpg
And here is a shot of the whole tank. You can make out the frags in the top left. You will also notice that I've re-arrange the rocks once again, creating a bridge of sorts between the two "islands".
Here is a link to a full rez version of the whole tank. Make sure you don't have your browser set to autosize images to fit your screen.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/tankhirez1.jpg
pclausen
New member
Thanks Kimo, I'll make a note of that and see if I can identify it one way or the other.
When you look at the tank from above, you will notice that there is very little rock between the two islands. The bridge conveniently covers the CL inlet. Originally I was using a single 2" screen for the inlet, but I added a T and a 2nd screen, so the inlet became a lot more visible. I did like the openness of keeping the islands separate, so I might go back to that if I can figure out a way to hide the inlet better, so maybe I'll return to a single screen again.
When you look at the tank from above, you will notice that there is very little rock between the two islands. The bridge conveniently covers the CL inlet. Originally I was using a single 2" screen for the inlet, but I added a T and a 2nd screen, so the inlet became a lot more visible. I did like the openness of keeping the islands separate, so I might go back to that if I can figure out a way to hide the inlet better, so maybe I'll return to a single screen again.
