400g system from scratch pictorial

Peter

I read somewhere here where a reffer placed netting (like deer netting) over the LR in the display seperating the fish from the LR. I think they were trying to catch a Coral Beauty, an equallt tough catch. It may take some time but if you can isolate it from being able to dart into the LR cover it may be easier to catch without removing the LR.
 
That's an excellent idea Bax. Leaving those 2 regular nets in there doesn't seem to be doing much. Even though I feed him right at the net, he darts away the instant I move either one. If I can block of his entrances to behind the rock work while he's out front eating, I might be able to catch him. I didn't detect any spots on him this morning, but I'd rather play it safe and get him in the QT and hypo everyone for 8 weeks, letting the tank go fallow for that long. What's another 2 months at this point anyway.
 
Nice tank :D
If you continue to focus on feeding the fish and keeping it healthy there is a good chance he will kick the ich all by himself.
Good Luck!
 
AcroSteve said:
Looks like the chiller is just bareley large enough.
You're right about that Steve! Fortunately right now is about as hot as it gets around here. By this time next year, I'll likely have a 180g FOWRL plumbed into the same system. That should cool things down some since there won't be any halides above that tank. :D
 
that crab in the picture few pages before is commonly known as Gorilla Crab and is considered extremely not reef safe. he will nip at anything he consideres food [even corals] and will fight with anything [till death <<<anemone] for food and will steal food from everyone. this crab only means disaster.

please take him out, it would be a shame if all that beautifull set up will go to ruin from one little thing like that.

this crab will take over the tank:strooper: , just give him a chance
 
AnNa, he's already out of the main tank and chilling in the QT at the moment. Wife thinks he's real cute, so I haven't quite decided what to do with him long term...
 
I keep Boris, a 2" Gorillia crab" in my return to munch detritus and large food pieces, he does a great job!
 
Rubber Maid stock tank

Rubber Maid stock tank

Do you know what size threaded fitting will fit the bulkead that comes on the 100 gallon stock tank? I tried to screw a threaded piece into mine tonight, and it would not work. I am trying to put a drain/riser pipe inside mine. I tried an 1 1/4" but it would not screw in from the inside.
 
I ended up drilling mine to accept a 1.5" bulkhead. I discarded the one that came with the tank. The original did look to be about 1 1/4" ish, but I never actually tried to use it.
 
Peter, great thread and great job. Lots of great ideas. I'm kind of bummed I've made it to the end! Hope you don't mind, I've borrowed a few ideas. I also want to plumb in a 150FOWRL into my 175 BF I'm putting in now. I've got to work out the plumbing.

Good luck with the ich, some people treat with garlic too. I think ich attacks, falls off for a while, then attacks again a while later. I think from your posts you have found that out.

Also good luck with the mold... How did you guys determine it was mold? Tests from HD? I think at work we've got an issue because everyone starts coughing in the afternoon, even people just coming in for a short visit. Out here in CO I wouldn't think it would be much of an issue since its so dry....

beaut of a tank!
 
Check your A/C coils and condensate drains for the mold. There is a steady supply of water there that will foster mold growth. Usually, for central air with mold problems, I will install a UV lamp in the duct where it can get at all the mold on the coils. No more problems after that. If you have a heat pump, you will really notice the difference when it starts to heat, as the mold will not be warmed up and smell like old gym socks.

Just a thought.


Karl
 
I recently had to catch a sunset wrasse out of my reef tank and found it at most, impossible. What worked for me was taking a small plastic container (clear), remove the top, use a cleaning magnet inside the container to hold it to the glass. Next just bait it with something the fish can't resist and sit back and wait for him to go in the container. Once he's in you better hit the ground running and get the container inverted or place your hand in front of the container before he has a chance to get back out. Good luck.
 
As far as the ich is concerned, I think I might luck out. The one spot on the YT, as seen on his left pectoral fin below, went away 3 days ago and there are no signs of any new spots.

ytich1.jpg


I'll monitor him closely over the next 6 weeks and keep my fingers crossed that I don't notice any new parasites on him. Besides, I'm treating my clowns for brook in the QT tank, so they won't be moved over for at least 6 weeks anyway.

Mold cleanup is progressing well. As I think I mentioned, the center of the infestation is the crawl space below the pantry. I sealed all the vents to the outside and installed a permanent dehumidifier and condensate drain pump. Humidity has dropped from 85% to 45% and the A/C ducts no longer drip with condensate and everything else has dried up nicely. My wife was complaining about not feeling well and through whatever it was, came from the crawl space. Turns out she was right. Yes, we used the mold test kits from HD. I also had a pro come in and asses the situation, and I definitely have mold in that crawl space.

I'll look into a UV light for the furnace for sure. The only filter on my system is a 24"x24"x1" at the return in the hallway. There is no separate filter at the furnace itself even though the installation instruction show one. Not sure what's up with that since this is a rather large system with a 4.5 ton A/C unit.

The wife want to fog the entire house once the cleanup has been completed. I'm a bit hesitant given the reef. If we do fog, I'll cover all the tanks with plastic and also block the vent into the fish room and shut off the exhaust fan in there. Hopefully that will prevent any of the fogging chemicals from reaching the water.

In other news, coraline algae began growing on all the lockline returns sometime last week.

coraline1.jpg


And a full tank shot which is still screaming for fish and more corals, but I unfortunately need to deal with the mold issue first.

full1024-2.jpg


The Yellow Zoo Polyps are really doing well:

yellowzoopolyps2.jpg


As is the Green Pocillipora:

greenpoci2.jpg


The other corals are also doing well also, but I don't have any shots of them.

I moved the Gorilla Crab to the sump (not the fuge with the live rock rubble and snails). Right now he's the sole inhabitant in that 150g of water. Hopefully he'll find enough to eat there as there is a tiny bit of detritus there, but not much. The banded coral shrimp molted again. At the rate he's going, he'll be a big boy soon.
 
IIRC, even if there isn't visible Ich on the Tang, it still lives in your aquarium. When he lost that final spot on his pectoral fin, it may have been the Ich dropping on its own to reproduce.

Looks good as usual. Are you going to have any other tangs for the tank?
 
xtrstangx, I'll definitely keep an eye on him. If he makes it for 6 weeks without getting any new spots, does that guarantee that my tank is ich free or will it just indicate that the tang is able to fight it off and that other fish added might not be so lucky?

I plan on having 2 more tangs, a hippo and a powder blue. The powder blue will be the last fish that I add and it won't be until I'm 100% sure that I don't have ich in the tank.

I've had a couple of electrical glitches/failures over that last week. One of my 20A GFI circuits began tripping. I tracked it down to the Milwaukee CO2 controller, or rather the relay that controls the solenoid on the tank. Basically the "wall-wart" that you see in the lower right corner in the pic below. Unfortunately it doesn't seem like it's possible to open the relay to clean it. Looking at it, I can see that the previous spilled something (probably saltwater) into it at some point.

cr2.jpg


It still works, but I had to plug it into an outlet that wasn't GFI protected.

My second failure was my Red Sea 200mg/hr ozone generator. Turns out that the power plug had corroded somewhat and caused the internal 500mA fuse to blow. I cleaned the power connector and replaced the fuse and all is well again. I'm not sure why the power connector would have corroded that quickly, but I'll be sure to keep an eye on it.

The 3rd failure was the 20A X10 relay that controls the chiller. My tank was at 83.3 degrees when I got home yesterday. I replaced the 20A X10 relay, but will begin looking around for a beefier relay and have the X10 relay control it instead of the chiller directly. My ACII was set to email me only when the temp reach 84 degrees. I have changed that to 82 degrees so that I'll know sooner, should the chiller every fail again.

But other than those relatively minor failures, everything seems to be humming along nicely!
 
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