No skilter, no filter at all unless you are going to do fish-only. If you want corals, best get 45-60 lbs of live rock, 45 lbs of medium-grade aragonite sand (which the rock will colonize in a week or so) and a sump with no filter, no wet-dry, no bio-balls, nothing of the sort. Ideal is one with a big middle chamber you can convert to a fuge.
A pre-drilled tank is the best if you can swing it: that means the box that drains water to the sump is internal to the tank (no leaks!) and water will flow smoothly to your sump, where your skimmer will remove proteins and your return pump will deliver the newly cleaned water back upstairs to the display.
The reason for not using filters: if you are running a fuge, they stop the copepods you are trying to breed; and worst of all, they trap the stuff that should be going into the sandbed/rock, which can reduce it to harmless nitrogen gas. If it stalls out in a filter, it is just nitrate-rich sludge that will not be beneficial to corals.
You will want to set up with ro/di water, and owning your own ro/di filter is a real moneysaver in the long run.
You will want to choose lighting based on what you want to keep. Lights range from moderately pricey to quite pricey. SPS coral and crocea clams want mh lighting, though certain sps do fine with less. That's very generic advice: this point deserves a lot of research before you buy.
Consider a good gently-used system. You find a lot of people upgrading to a larger tank, and you can sometimes get a great system in your area for a considerable savings. You just have to know what kind of system you want and pass up one that's not quite it.
